A retarded trophy truck

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84projectford

Senior Member
Sep 8, 2010
569
78
28
Phoenix Az
#51
Like to hear the stuff about the Dmax trucks too, as that is the next planned vehicle. Planning to stay stock with a cold air intake on an LML, and looking for one in the 40-80K mile range. I was reading that when the CP4 goes out, it wipes out the entire fuel system costing 7K+ in repairs. Is that true? and if so, is it possible to replace it at a certain mile interval for a cheaper price and save the rest of the fuel system?
depends on the year LML. 11-13 had some issues with the CP4 more so than the later years. there is also a couple other issues to watch out for in those years. personally id get a 15.5-16 if it were me for the newer body style and updates. Sinister and a couple other places offer a kit now that puts a filter in place incase a cp4 goes. it cost 7k cause dealers rape you. they claim you need to replace everything from cp4 all the way to the injectors (fuel rails, fuel lines, sensors, etc). a good sonic cleaner will get the junk out of the hard lines/rails. id then see if any injectors actually plug up or are bad. you will know quickly and they are easy to change. then just replace the bad ones. Otherwise, replace the CP4 every 100k and roll on. there is also a cp3 conversion but unless you have a tuner that can get in teh truck and tune it, wouldnt do it. the scaling of the regulator is a pain in the ass and requires alot of fine tuning that most big guys never take the time for.
 
Feb 5, 2010
1,206
8
38
San Diegoish
#52
yea it will be a very stock setup, especially being here in California. I like the 11-14 body style the best, and read the 11s had a lot of emission issues on them, but 12-16 were pretty much the same engine/trans wise. Sounds like that is not the case?
 

84projectford

Senior Member
Sep 8, 2010
569
78
28
Phoenix Az
#53
if you want good info from the net on these trucks, read up on duramaxdiesels.com. duramax forum and diesel place are full of retards...

nothing wrong with the 11's compared to the later models. 11-12 had TCM issues that cause all kinds of funky codes or driving issues. in 15.5 GM went to its own allison shifting software and went away from Allison programming the tcm's so in my opinion, they dont shift quite as crisp but the newer updates seem to help. 11-14 have this weird fan shroud issue where the rubber between the fan cage and shroud flips over and rubs on the radiator which then causes it to leak. probably a couple other things im missing but the interior of the 11-15 is cheap imho. the 15.5-16 are way nicer.
 
Likes: Josh40601

84projectford

Senior Member
Sep 8, 2010
569
78
28
Phoenix Az
#54
So this thing was suppose to get a hone job on all cyl or a bore over if the blown out piston gouged the cyl up.... yeah well in true cheap fuck fasion, that didnt happen. I fyou guys come across a 2009 black lifted cc/sb duramax thats deleted with 170k on it in az for sale from a dealer, dont buy it. Not because my cyl repair will be an issue, its because the pistons in this thing are going to be an issue down the road. I would have still much rather preferred to bore the bitch over but the cyl is going to be the least of the engines worries at this point.

Anyhow, once i got back to the engine the next day, i started scrubbing the cyl wall with muriatic acid. It eats aluminum like a zymbabway kid on a cheeseburger.

before, nothing done to the mess


about 20-30min of scrubbing with a brass brush and acid.


and after honing and reasembling the short block (pulled the crank to check bearings and keep debris off it). went through alot of shop rags keeping shit out of places it shouldnt go. fuck doing this again. 240grit ball hone, 600rpm and lots of lube/stroking got her gooooooood. You can see just some faint scores left and on the left hand side, just a little discoloring on the cyl from where the piston blew. only opened up .0006 on the cyl and taper/out of round are still right in spec. surprisingly the two cyl on either side showed even wear as well.


new rings back on the piston after checking gap (.018 top and .020 second ring, good for stock, not what id run in a performance engine) and slammed it home. reassembled the engine and dropped it off to be put back in. i started reassembly the wednesday before tg after work at 5, had it back together and in the bed of my truck by 1am. That included new head bolts, grade c headgaskets (on the thicker side to keep piston to head clearance at around .028) checking piston protrusion, torquing everything to spec, valve lashing, cleaning up the injectors and putting new seals on them, and fixing some "soon to be issues" like coolant hoses and what not. It was up and running as of monday and went to a dealer for trade in today lmao. She started right up and purred like a kitten. when my buddy took it for a drive i rode in it and realized RIGHT away why this thing popped. the damn h&s tuner is running so much fucking timing it rattles terribly if you hit the throttle hard to get out in traffic till boost starts coming on or rpms get over 2k. horrible shit.

So shes gone and he got a new 2017 L5P duramax.

one more tid bit of dmax knowledge. GM off sets the wrist pin on all factory duramax pistons (still need to confirm L5P though) by .030. the idea is to quiet piston slap on cold starts. personally, i never hear it cause i feel timing and pre/post injection event contribute more to engine noise than that BUT all aftermarket pistons have centered wrist pins. they also have a tapered oiling hole in the bottom of them that lines up perfectly with the oil squirters to cycle oil through the center of the piston so they are bank specific. So if you are putting stock pistons in your truck, you need to make sure you have a left and right bank. easy way to tell is by the pic below.



the top triangle circled will point to the blocks valley/rocker area or UP. if its pointing to the outside of the block where the exhaust would be going, its upside down. next is the bottom red circle. you see a number and arrow pointing to what would be the front of the block. this means it is a right side (cyl 1,3,5,7) piston to orient the oil squirter with the pistons ports. the number will be 1 digit higher or lower than the other banks pistons and they will all have arrows that should point to the blocks front. Aftermarket does not have a bank specific side as they make the oil port work on either side. Just a little fun fact.
 
Sep 8, 2010
569
78
28
Phoenix Az
#55
So currently waiting on my second kid to pop out so i can figure out where my play funds lay. Hes due just about any day now. Plan is to take the tracker down to a mexican frame shop and have them get it back semi straight just to drive around on. Shouldnt be too big of an issue. ill plate where the frame tore and bent up then build a strut bar to support the frame rails from twisting in towards the engine. She wont get as hammered on as mexico again (you all know thats a load of horse shit but it sounds good to my brain). once thats done, i can fucking finally start on the god damn front end. its literally next in line as house shit is caught up and my diesel just got a shit ton of work done to it that apparently it decided it wanted to shit out.

Some of which includes:
pulled lower oil pan to fix leak (wasnt the issue and what a pain in the ass that was)

put new cyl 2 and 7 injector wire connections on (LLY typically have the connection go bad in the connect, drops connection and you drop to 4 injectors to run on since one injector drops out kills a whole bank)

pulled my lift pump to fix what i thought was a bad o-ring but found out the motor seal was shot and AirDog wont sent you that seal. So instead, i got a brand new upgraded pump. got 10 years out of the old pump so i aint bitching

Go to move the truck back in for the night after putting the new pump in and the water pump starts leaking and hydroboost is weeping good now.

had a dunes trip the next weekend and no one had a welded water pump (pump gear is tigged on to keep the gear from spinning off). took a napa pump to my buddies and tigged both the impeller and gear on to keep them from spinning off at 4k rpm (under that, they usually stay together). Put a new hydroboost on and off we went.

Week between christmas and new years i spent on the truck again putting an aux radiator in teh front for more cooling when towing during the summer, she gets hot using my 600hp tow tune and pull a 37ft toy hauler. That required changing back to my stock 02 bumper as the old prerunner bumper i built years ago wont clear and i couldnt make a new one that looked good. i like the stock bumper with the fenders though. Then ran new oil cooler lines, changed the intank sending unit as mine would read like shit at 1/8 tank and below. re-oringed a trans cooler line connection at the radiator. Put a new amp in the truck for the subs and changed out the dead inverter for a new one to charge my laptop.

a metric fuck ton of work but here are some pics of the fixes

soldering on new connections for injectors


dead lift pump seal. it was leaking in and then out the weep hole. going to find that seal and fix it so i have a back up to sit on the shelf and collect dust cause i know ill never use the fucker


aux rad in



air to oil cooler relocated (aftermarket as well, factory is just a water to oil cooler. i run both)


fixed sender. i run a 5/8" pick up line as the stock one narrows to 3/8" in spots and will starve my pumps of fuel.


all cleaned up. My buddy/detailer broke the pass side signal light out of the truck so it looks a little funky. new one should be here any day.

 
Likes: Josh40601

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