so why are you not running a bypass? your class allows it. it doesnt matter who tuned them they would be faded by the time you got pit1 the first time becauce you are way under shocked for that heavy pig of yours.
leave the reservoirs alone. pull them apart and put a 15 stack on compression with the two largest dia shims doubled up and an 8 on rebound for both ends of the truck. springs should be as light as possible with 1” of preload in the front and 2” in the rear. keeping the split at 100-150 lbs.
This truck will only race KOH once more. The expense and effort aren’t worth the trouble. we’re not going to beat this dead horse in this thread anymore.
I didn’t come here to start a pissing match. I’ve made it clear the use of and future of the truck in question. I just had a few questions about single shocks and to seek the advice of tuning them or any other tricks.
I will argue the who or what the shocks were tuned as. Even if you insist they would’ve faded by pit 1 that would’ve been better than literally nothing I had at the beginning. In fact, the first 13 miles were the hardest on us. Rm13 to 48 was where we started to run a faster overall mph with the exception of deep washouts or cross traveled roads. The who does matter if they have no idea of how to valve or spring a car let alone get the tuning closer or correctly interpret the data or feedback from the driver. That doesn’t matter now. I’ll be responsible for that. I know that wasn’t the direct intent of your remark.
Thanks for your valving input. Seems like a better place to start. Preload. Got it. I knew it from the beginning and even learned a better approach from Iribe at king. I was back on my original springs for KOH which are what I personally spec’d last summer and they were confirmed by king on the lakebed with the exception to running a 16” 250lbs secondary spring in the front. Just adjusting the secondary nuts properly (they weren’t very close for KOH) had a much better feeling in the rough and that was with no charge or oil in the bump stops a few weeks ago.
200/250 front 1” preload
150/200 rear 1 or 1.5 preload. Don’t remember since the truck is torn apart now. I will update this with what I find inside.
If 2.0s don’t work out in the front, I came up with a very simple way to accommodate 2.5s without frenching the frame or relocating anything to clear the larger spring. So that comes around to where the thread started. Piston design/flow. (Not about brands or who runs them in your neighborhood) Is it really that critical (in my application) when considering who’s shock I’d be uprgrading to? Materials, etc aren’t as important to me. It’s probably splitting hairs. They all produce a quality product and have long track records of success. If it’s not a cut and dry or simple answer/decision. So be it. I understand the technicalities involved but I’m not proficient with them. Is it as simple as fuck it and pick a shock and get familiar with the tuning? I’m good with that too.
the simple solution ... buy 4 parker pumpers and get them ducted to blow on the the shock bodies, ideally 4" below the reservoir hose. pick one of the 2 or 3 competent proven u4 tuners and give them some money. oh and tune where you race, simple as that. if you want some recommendations drop me a PM. im curious to know what valving is in your shocks now. if you plan on farting around with it yourself its simple - compression good, rebound bad, if the tires arent on the ground they arent moving you forward
2.0 kings are a terrible shock. the 5/8" post, shim sizing and piston design make for a poor flowing shock. as mentioned fox is a better shock, flows better, better piston design, better materials and all that stuff for all shocks but more importantly in the 2.0 coilover flavor.
so what are you racing in the future if the truck is only doing one more KOH?
.850 x .010
1.00 x .010
1.148 x .010
1.298 x .010
1.450 x .012
1.450 x .010
.848 x .008 fulcrum
1.298 x .015
1.148 x .015
1.00 x .015
.851 x .015
It’s unknown the valving in the rear prior to this change we did in the field. I see many problems with it and it explains what went wrong during our tuning session. His idea of shock tuning is more cowbell errr I mean spring rate. Front valving as posted, 275 14”/300 16” and he wanted more spring yet. He also changed the rear to what I posted above. I’d have to look back to see how heavy the rear springs were. The truck would violently unload/tailslap after a series of whoops in a few hundred feet as a result of these changes (for the worse) He turned ghost white and bailed on me once the truck went to absolute shit. Springs in conjunction with this valve combo makes it obvious the violent handling. The correct and lighter springs negated the unpredictable tail slaps/staring at the ground in a panic hoping the ass comes back to earth. However we still struggled with packing during KOH.
I’ll get some .008 for rebound and some .015 and .020 for compression. Avoid the flutter or build a better profile? I’ll rebuild/upgrade the seals, get some fresh oil, adjust volume if necessary if 700cc is incorrect and start at 200psi and see what this thing will do.
yes i am serious. air on the shock body will keep them from fading as fast, its a trick i learn from a very successful jeepspeed team.
shims look fine, the coating wears away from use. as long as nothing is cracked, run em. you can replace them if you want, but its gets pricey at $4 a pop.
never measured oil, so no help there. the oil looks like king with piston particulates floating around. let it sit for a couple of days and it should clear up some with a nice mess on the bottom. king doesnt do a surface finish on their piston so they break down. check the ports and im betting there is signs of cavitation and material missing.
as for the valving ... on a rock donkey you need .008 on rebound, end of story. that will make a big difference in ride quality. i am not a believer in the single shim flutter and that cover shim is too thin. i stand by my previous recommendation as a starting point for shims and you need to get the spring rates right.