Benefit to larger rezzy than shock body? Intro to my new shock quest

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Senior Member
Sep 27, 2013
VenTurA 805!
I agree, valving in hydraulic bumpstops, especially for rebound is going to net unnoticeable results. If you want them to be stiffer on compression, collapse the shaft, fill with oil close to the top through the schrader and cycle a few times to remove air bubbles add oil if necessary. Then test with varying N2 pressures to your liking..However filling completely with oil leaves no room for N2 when it is collapsed fully and could potentially turn into a projectile bumpstop after a hard hit.
Dec 8, 2016
Front shocks

.010”-.010” - Used one of my .008” x 1.148 for flutter fulcrum
.010”-.010” - LF has a doubled up cover washer. .010” x 2
.008”-.008” - increased from .848” to 1.148” diameter fulcrum

Rear shocks

.008”-.008” - .848” fulcrum B/A


Front I set at 8.5” on the gas side measured from rez end to edge of piston or 7.625” gas volume when shock is topped out. Rear is set at 9”. I built a trick tool that attaches to the rezzy, allows me to cycle the piston to burp the oil. The tool initially sets the IFP deeper than the desired location. Because, math. Then I top off the shock body to a predetermined level, set the piston in the oil and burp, slide the seal head against the top out washer, verify my oil level and contact the oil with the seal head, I release my tool and plunge the seal head and install the ring. Stroke the shock and verify my IFP depth with the tool. Remove the tool and insert the end cap. Charge. Done. Haters gonna hate but bottoming out or “setting” the IFP with N2 is lazy. Now I’ll actually have some oil in the reservoir and utilize these shocks to their full potential for a list of reasons. In earlier photos, at full compression my front shocks still have 1-5/8” stroke left. Changing the IFP depth to account for this along with a little extra aggression will significantly help the dampening. Those who know, know.

Other changes include spreading my rez mounts to the ends of the rez body so they are supported and clamped on the end caps. This will help with heat dissipation and eliminate body warping. On that note, I made some changes to by bump cans. I cut the upper pinch bolts off and welded small straps there. They only pinch on the lower bolt now. My build thread will document some other wasteful meaningless changes that I made.

16” x 200lbs PAC springs are on order for the rear. (Secondary/lower) I’m going to try flat Torrington bearings in my spring packs as well. Seals are all replaced. Also relocated the rear reservoirs to prevent death since I set the IFP depth. Haters gonna hate. They now point down and rearward tucked just out of the way of the sway bar arms. They use to be pointed right at the back of my head. This is a cleaner look and tighter packaging and gets them out of direct sunlight.

I switched up the bump stop valving. (Before I even go tuning. The idea may have been silly but I won’t have time to horse around. It’s better to just keep it simple right now) The rebound was already lightened significantly but it’s now just a traditional single stack and I dumped the flutter for a lighter cover stack that progressively stacks heavier to the top out washer. For some reason I never fully grasped what everyone commonly suggests for setting the oil volume. It finally clicked during all of my calculations for setting the IFP. It was just a matter of connecting the dots of everything I already knew or understood and using it all together when we’re talking shocks.

Bought a slick no-loss N2 system from ebay. Great price, made in America from a regular guy like us with American parts.

Now all I need is time to work on the rest of the truck and maybe I’ll have time to tune before or at hammers in the next 7 months.

Thanks to those who have contributed to my useless thread, those who have contributed to other threads in the past that taught me something and those negative Nancy’s that argue everything and say it won’t work from behind a keyboard. (No, really. You might be right. I haven’t tested anything yet)
Last edited:
Mar 11, 2008
the seven seas
in short. hell no
1. that additional resi volume wont do shit for you and will cost you almost 156ea (resi can, IFP, and both ends of the resi)
2. just the cost alone to add 2.5 compression adjusters to the shock is 250 per shock plus needing a revalve
3. brand new 2.5 14s from king are 725 retail with springs and 90s and add 175ea for compression adjusters
4. put your shocks up for sale and use the money to buy the correct stuff. king had a 15% price bump in may so use that to your advantage as your shocks are now worth alot more.
5. 2.0s will not survive period and the cost to make them do so far exceeds buying 2.5s with adjusters and fins
6. cancel your spring order from PAC and order them from king... springs are free to exchange and will be swapped out to the correct springs no charge on tuning days.
7. king offers racer support and free tuning quit wasting your money

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