Correct. Hit up Adam Filbin, I think hes the one that I heard that from. Something about battery or alternator needs to be wired in a specific way . I can’t recall the details, but Aaron is on the right track.
The alternator wiring completes its circuit through the gauge cluster. I cannot remember what color wire but I've had to cut and connect a few wires to get them to run with aftermarket gauges. The newer rangers nothing works without the cluster installed, no locks, doors, anything.
Well finally figured out the issue.. I changed the spacer plate even though I didn’t need to.
Apparently i ended up with a spacer and starter for a SOHC which I not knowingly installed. STUPID. So now I need to swap it back out with the correct spacer and starter and it should be good to go.
Also been having a hell of a time bleeding the brakes have good pressure at all corners except the outside bleeder screw on the drivers side rear. Pedal still seems mushy and no real pressure at the handbrake. Any thoughts or ideas?
I have 3/4 masters on the brake pedal with 2lb residual valves. Handbrake is plumbed in line with the rear brakes
How are you pumping the brakes? On my sand car, I pump the peddle till stiff, then pull the hand brake, hold both down while someone cracks the bleeder, shut bleeder when both bottom out, release peddle first, release hand brake last.
This was the only way I could get my rear brakes to bleed properly
We had a short course car that had issues with the hand brake and we ended up unbolting it and turning it on it side the best we can and then bleed the brakes and that helped a lot, the way it was mounted air was still trapped i it and it effected the whole braking system still.