Bronco Without A Name

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dsrtrcr01

Well-known member
Jan 31, 2005
3,584
53
48
#21
Never knew some one made a brace like that. I built something very similar back in 1999 when my 95 f150 dash broke and sagged. Dealer said I needed a new 1200 dollar dash to fix it
 

traxiii

"GET OFF MY LAWN!"
Oct 7, 2009
438
8
18
NOR CAL
#22
Makes sense someone makes those, its super common for those things to crack and break. My 1990 F1 did the first time I took it seriously off road. Never fell down or anything, just sort of sagged a bit and made squeaky noises driving down the road.
 

yltaco05

Senior Member
Jan 18, 2006
817
8
18
Seal Beach, CA
#23
It’s a trick little piece. I think they always have a sale on it or free shipping if your not local. Haven’t driven with it yet but feels solid when I try moving the dash by hand.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Jan 18, 2006
817
8
18
Seal Beach, CA
#24
Not much of an update.

Decided to put coms on hold as it technically works and doesn't affect drivability. I looked into the issues I had and came across some great info which then snowballed... So that said radio, will be getting upgraded to 110 watts, remote head, advanced head, some wiring to do what i need, EEPROMs upgrade and a new mount to sit more flush in the radio pocket.

For now, I ordered all my shock seals and bearings and have started cleaning/organizing the garage to get ready to rebuild my shocks. Still need to possibly order shims though. Wont know till I open all the shocks and see what I got. The plan is for:

Coilovers (2.5 x 14" Remote Resi SAW's)
- Compression = .008
- Rebound = .008
- Bleeds = All Open

Bypasses (2.5 x 12" Double Bypass Piggy Back Kings)
- Compression = .020
- Rebound = .012
- Bleeds = 1 Open (???)

Any input here would be great. Actually going to be my first time running a bypass on a beamed vehicle. I also currently have one pair of bump stops that I was debating on running front or rear (or pick up another pair and run both) but with bypasses front and rear I'm not sure how necessary they are. In my explorer I ran a single coilover and a bump stop and it handled great. Thoughts?

After shocks are done Ill be finalizing the front end. Need to do brakes/brakelines. Whats the consensus these days on running hardline down the radius arms vs soft line from frame to caliper. I also plan to remove the ABS pump and put a proportion valve in its place, using stock lines from MC to valve and possible stock lines out of valve to frame.
 
Last edited:
Jan 18, 2006
817
8
18
Seal Beach, CA
#28
Bleeds are ok.

Normally I would say plug the BP, but you only have 1 tube.

Run a 20 on the top of the comp stacks for a flexible rate plate. Both shocks.
Can you elaborate on this? what diameter shim? and by top do you mean on top of the pyramid (furthest from the piston)?


Also do you guys suggest running 5/8 bolts instead of 9/16 in the beam pivots? or is 9/16 good enough? I'm currently running one beam with 9/16 misalign and the other with a 5/8. which one should I switch?
 
Jan 18, 2006
817
8
18
Seal Beach, CA
#29
Bleeds are ok.

Normally I would say plug the BP, but you only have 1 tube.

Run a 20 on the top of the comp stacks for a flexible rate plate. Both shocks.
Can you elaborate on this? what diameter shim? and by top do you mean on top of the pyramid (furthest from the piston)?


Also do you guys suggest running 5/8 bolts instead of 9/16 in the beam pivots? or is 9/16 good enough? I'm currently running one beam with 9/16 misalign and the other with a 5/8. which one should I switch?
 

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