Dyno Tune for idiots

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Feb 24, 2003
16,152
101
63
Las Vegas
#11
As other have said, the torque converter is matched to the engine/cam combo. The idea of added stall speed is to get the engine into the torque quicker since the converter lets the motor rev higher before it “locks up”. Too much stall speed can generate serious heat though. Make sure you pick a something that is below your general operating rpm when driving.
BTW, I've already got a pretty big cooler/fan combo in the truck and I've got a 2nd one I'm going to be plumbing into the mix that's on the list of things to do here soon once it's in the garage while working on the back half before moving to the front... (ignore the line routing and zipties and crap, old photo, it's all been redone and cleaned up.)



The smaller cooler is for the motor, larger is for the tans, I've got another cooler about the same size as that trans cooler that I'm going to use and double it up with.

 

84projectford

Senior Member
Sep 8, 2010
623
107
43
Phoenix Az
#12
Stay the fuck away from blackbear. If at any point you need a retune or changes to the current tune you get, it will be a royal bitch to get done. That guy has screwed a lot of guys out here in AZ and I’ll never use him again. He’s quick to take your money and send you a tune or two, then it’s months of waiting after that. Fuck him
 

SByota

Senior Member
Jul 16, 2003
280
25
28
37
#13
Interesting on the blackbear tuning option. I had just figured we've got enough tuners here in town up by the speedway that I'd go that route. Hadn't considered something along the lines of what you described. I'll look into that option a bit for sure.

In regards to the torque converter, sounds like the way I was planning to go would be fine anyways. Basically I was going to get the motor built and once that was done, see how many pennies are left in the jar, talk to Culhane and make sure I have enough to send it back to him. Let him do his freshening magic inside and also tell him what's up and assumed he'd be the one to spec out the converter. So if I have my motor info before the trans goes to him I assume he'll be able to take care of it from there.

Happy I should be fine with the stock ECU, one less expense cause I know this is all going to snowball obviously...

I'll just go ahead and budget for injectors. I'd read somewhere about people running stock injectors from the larger LS platforms which is probably the 8.1L mentioned above so I'll check into those and simply pull the plug on them sooner than later and have them ready to go... I just wasn't sure how to know if i really would need them or not. Yes, my current ones are 100% stock so sounds pretty confident I'll need to bump up in size.

Thanks for the info guys!!! Super helpful for my planning purposes! I had a general idea of what needs done and in what order I need to get things pushed through, just wasn't sure these few details for planning/budgeting purposes.

Hopefully get my Mustang out of the garage this weekend, get a race truck part buttoned up so that's out of my hair and then I can push the truck back in and go on it. I've got probably a month's worth of stuff that's mostly labor more than $$$ to deal with on the rear and then turn it around and yank the motor/trans. That'll buy me another month or so to save pennies and hopefully by the time the motor is done I'll have enough piled up to go right into the transmission.


Only thing on the transmission is whether I truly am taking it to Culhane or if I should have another performance builder more local to me here in Vegas do it... It was originally done by Culhane which is why I'm leaning towards getting it back in his hands cause it's having some issues currently and this motor build I'm sure will make those issues even worse. It's just logistics/cost of getting it out to him make it a pain vs. dealing with someone local.
I looked at my data logs today. My injector cycle is at around 80% at WOT in my LQ4 with Texas Speed cam, headers, intake and exhaust. Keep in mind this is a street truck and runs amazing. If I was running this combo in a race truck or toy, I would upgrade the injectors.
 

SByota

Senior Member
Jul 16, 2003
280
25
28
37
#14
Stay the fuck away from blackbear. If at any point you need a retune or changes to the current tune you get, it will be a royal bitch to get done. That guy has screwed a lot of guys out here in AZ and I’ll never use him again. He’s quick to take your money and send you a tune or two, then it’s months of waiting after that. Fuck him
That's a bummer. I was nothing but satisfied with what I got. I only did a single tune with no need to ever change it though.
 

toyick

Melrose Stanley
Sep 10, 2007
7,181
9
38
Bay Area
#15
The local street racer guys did Sally after i did the LS1 conversion. I had the Cam matched to the TQ. They had an extra set of injectors from like a volvo or something that had a better duty cycle then what i was using. Watcched them tune it and all was great. You can have the PATS and stuff tuned, or a basic tune just to start and run it done for like 100$. i think after two street tunes and pulling pats i was into it 400$...
 
Likes: sirhk100

mconcha

Señor Member
Aug 24, 2007
1,043
26
48
SD
#16
Stay the fuck away from blackbear. If at any point you need a retune or changes to the current tune you get, it will be a royal bitch to get done. That guy has screwed a lot of guys out here in AZ and I’ll never use him again. He’s quick to take your money and send you a tune or two, then it’s months of waiting after that. Fuck him
X2
 
Mar 31, 2010
67
2
8
Simi Valley
#17
To save some on your injectors you can send them out and get the ones you have cleaned and resized. I used fuelinjectorconnection.com when I was assembling my truck. I had the stock LS1 injectors resized to 42lbs. They send you all the flow data and match the flow on each injector. It did take a about 2 weeks to get done, but overall a good experience.
 
Likes: sirhk100

04yfzkid

I are smarts
Mar 21, 2007
33,365
230
63
Flagstaff, AZ
#19
If you don't already have one, get yourself a wide band. If the exhaust doesn't merge together at one point, get two. It lets you know quick when something is wrong and makes diagnosing everything easier. If you do a remote tune, your tuner is going to want you to have one. Stock computer is fine. HP Tuners works very well and likely what they will tune on. Don't let some one con you into some stand alone. They have more fancy features that are nice, but not needed. It's also nice to be able to plug into an obdII port and check for codes.

Dyno tune or street tune is a better option as people have said. The engine dyno will not use the same components. Do not go with a mail order tune such as blackbear. If you're spending the money, at least have someone standing by for data logs and plan on either several dyno pulls or several street pulls.

I am pretty sure it is culhane that my buddy just got his 4l80e back from. The put a manual valve body in it, then ran it on their trans dyno to make sure everything was exactly how he wanted it. Worked perfect last weekend.

Make sure the truck is over prepared for the "chassis" dyno session. If not you are paying for a certain time slot and wasting more trying to fix issues or buying parts at mark up from them to salvage the session. Things like having the injectors cleaned, new plugs, proper fuel pressure, cleaned or new fuel filters, newish o2 sensors if you have them, making sure everything works perfect, ect. For injectors if you want to stay on a budget, siemens deka 80lb injectors have treated a lot of people well. Little over kill but will give you some head room if you want to run e85 in the future. We all know how things snowball over time so just keep that in mind.

I don't think arp rod bolts and headstuds are needed, but I don't discourage people if it gives them piece of mind.
 
Feb 24, 2003
16,152
101
63
Las Vegas
#20
I don't think arp rod bolts and headstuds are needed, but I don't discourage people if it gives them piece of mind.

Thanks for the reply. Definitely figured I'd have the motor running hopefully top notch as I'd read enough to pickup on here and there about people paying for the tuning session and spending more time trying to get it simply running good enough to tune than they do actually tuning it.

Thanks for the info on the injectors, I'll look into them.

In regards to the studs, seems like not that much money for extra piece of mind. The guy that's going to be doing the motor work for me doesn't have LS experience but has 40+ years of chevy motor building experience. He's been talking to his guys that he surrounds himself with and has been wanting to get into the LS scene so I figure I'm just going to go with what he's suggesting. He knows what I'm looking for budget wise. He just pulled his big motor out of his car 2000+hp and put his small motor back in it 900'ish hp to street cruise with. LOL, you walk in his garage and he's got 4 motors on stand any of which would blow minds most likely. He's already lined up an intake so we can break the motor in on his engine stand with a carb before installing in the truck with the regular intake...

This whole thing may have just got bumped back a month or so due to an unexpected $1000 vet bill, thanks dog!!! But either way, it's coming soon for sure one way or another!
 

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