G50 race pack

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RedOctober

Junior Member
May 26, 2016
8
0
1
#1
On my ranger I have the g50 race pack with karteks drop down hanger along with 7" shackles . And it rides stiff as hell, I do have a full bedcage with 2 spares and 16" shocks. I believe the bedcage itself weighs over 200 not including the 2 35" tires. Only issue I have adding more weight, is trying to get the truck to stop, and im not aware of any aftermarket brakes for the ranger. I was told from the guy that made my bedcage I had the shackle bolts way to tight and he had to force the axle down but I fixed all that and still no better. Any help would be great
 

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96f-u250

Senior Member
Sep 27, 2013
697
4
18
VenTurA 805!
#2
Is the rear drop hanger bolted in the stock location? What shock valving and PSI do you have? Also are the leafs set up and cycling properly? Another thing, proper way to torque shackle and leaf spring bolts is after the vehicle is off jackstands and on its own weight.
 

RedOctober

Junior Member
May 26, 2016
8
0
1
#3
Is the rear drop hanger bolted in the stock location? What shock valving and PSI do you have? Also are the leafs set up and cycling properly? Another thing, proper way to torque shackle and leaf spring bolts is after the vehicle is off jackstands and on its own weight.
Yeah Its bolted where the stock one was. FOA did the valving so its probably not close and from what I remember I put 180 in them. Ill look up the proper torq and try that out. I never touched the front bolts since I bolted them in.
 

96f-u250

Senior Member
Sep 27, 2013
697
4
18
VenTurA 805!
#4
First id measure your leaf spring pack bushings eye to eye distance off the truck with no weight compressing them. That number has to be less than center to center measurement of shackle Bolt hole where leafs mount and front hanger bolt hole. If the leaf spring measurement is more it wont cycle correctly and bind at droop. Most people move the rear hanger back and only use two factory holes. If thats not the problem you should look at shock valving. I dont think torque for the bolts would cause these problems you mentioned but I was taught to set the truck on the ground before final torqueing of the bolts that go through bushings.
 

RedOctober

Junior Member
May 26, 2016
8
0
1
#5
First id measure your leaf spring pack bushings eye to eye distance off the truck with no weight compressing them. That number has to be less than center to center measurement of shackle Bolt hole where leafs mount and front hanger bolt hole. If the leaf spring measurement is more it wont cycle correctly and bind at droop. Most people move the rear hanger back and only use two factory holes. If thats not the problem you should look at shock valving. I dont think torque for the bolts would cause these problems you mentioned but I was taught to set the truck on the ground before final torqueing of the bolts that go through bushings.
Ill measure it out because it was a pain in the ass to squeeze that leaf pack in the hanger and the shackle barley moved at full droop. Thank you for the info ill check it out tomorrow and ill have an answer.
Now should I jack the truck up just enough to get the weight off it ?
 

96f-u250

Senior Member
Sep 27, 2013
697
4
18
VenTurA 805!
#6
If you want to keep it assembled as much as possible, lift the truck to full suspension droop or wherever the end of the shackle looks closest to the front hanger then measure for shackle bolt hole to front hanger bolt hole. Then unbolt one leaf pack from the shackle and measure the leaf pack with no load. You may have to stand or push some weight on the axle to get it to droop fully. Also be careful unbolting the spring pack because there maybe tension. Youll be able to tell with how difficult it is to remove the bolt.
 

RedOctober

Junior Member
May 26, 2016
8
0
1
#7
From what im seeing on the other forums people have moved back the hanger an inch because it was binding. Im going to take everything off tomorrow and do it. I might actually cut the bed open on top so the hanger doesn't rub on it anymore
 

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