hahah you should see my neighbors lineup, makes me look like a peasant! I'll be sad to part with the 68', I've been dailying it instead of the superdookie most days.I got the motor torn down, and I'm glad I did... 4 pistons/rods were in 180 degrees off, whoever assembled it got lucky the valves didn't tag the pistons. Got everything reassembled and stuffed the motor in the truck finally. Also got the D44 up front trussed up and mounted. Now I’m waiting until April to get it down to Idaho.For those that follow me on Instagram (Bent_bronco) you know I've changed my mind 5-6 times on going I-Beams or TTB, I've finally come full circle back to TTB. I'm working on getting a cross-member out of a donor rig, my neighbor has an 86' I may be able to sacrifice for the greater good...If I spend money on TTB I can’t change my mind right? haha. I’ve been shopping around a little bit, it looks like Solo has a pretty good package deal on beams/shafts, I’m looking at going 4.5” wider with plate work and their radius arms. But I’m open to other companies too, Giant has some cool stuff close to the same price point. I know all the big-name guys are equal in quality so there isn’t really a “wrong choice”. There will be a couple things to decide on, like steering. The steering box is mounted on the outboard side of the frame. Thus, I’m guessing the pitman arm won’t line up properly in relation to the Beam/RA pivots. So I’m thinking it will require Dual Swing setup. But that will be decided when I get a little further I suppose. I’ve been trying to read up, since this is a new subject for me and I don’t go into big projects blind when avoidable. So, any input is appreciated, I’m one of probably 5-6 prerunners within 200 miles out here so I’m 100% reliant on the interwebz for experience. I’ve gotten shamed by some of the locals for tossing around the idea of going from 1-tons to TTB… haha! As far as coilovers, from what I’ve read the consensus is that a single coilover is adequate up front. Would the cost of 3.0 C/O’s be worth it? I know coil’s are much more expensive for them compared to 2.5’s. Or would I be better off with a set of 2.5 C/O’s and adding Bypasses or putting the money somewhere else (rear Bypasses/bumps etc.).Here’s some pictures of what I’ve been up to
A couple videos of the Black Bronco (if they work...)
Playing in the snow a bit... didn't mean to dust the neighbors car with powder...oops
Tore the engine/front suspension out. Got a donor Bronco and took the beams/crossmember out. Also grabbed a D50 with the bolt in style shaftf rom Shawn T on here (thanks again! Was nice meeting you). I've been talking with Cho, and am going to be running his new fully-fabbed 4.5" beams. Also got some RCV shafts from Cho. Sounds like it may be a little while before the beams are ready, so I plan on starting in on the Cage in the meantime.
The donor crossmember is much wider than the 78/79 frame, since the 78/79's are boxed in that section. So I narrowed up the crossmember. Looks like the holes in the boxed section of the frame will end up right where the crossmember meets up to it, so I plan on plating the frame so get as much surface area to weld to as possible.I picked up some AutoFab pivot mounts, and engine mounts while I had it all apart. I'll have to modify the engine mounts a bit when the time comes, the new crossmember takes up a bit of their real estate.
While I was cleaning up the frame, I found a ton of cracks where the steering box mounts to the frame. So, I stop-drilled/ground/welded the cracks up. Then added some 3/16" plate to stiffen the frame up a bit. Hydraulic assist steering should take a lot of the load off the steering box down the road anyways.
Care to explain? The factory TTB crossmember tucked into the "C" of the frame rails, mine will be butted up against them. But that's really the only difference, unless I'm missing something, which is 100% possible. Roper designs did the swap the same way as me, but with a Shortened D50 beam setup, and is pulling 17.5" travel.