King Pin type IBP

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84prerunner

2:AM Fabrication
Feb 7, 2008
21,453
39
48
Covina CA
#1
Anyone have first hand experience with them? wonder how well they really work. I like the idea behind them, i believe position sensitive valving is very important. I am wondering how much of a bumpzone you really get when combing the remote adjuster (to help combat cavitation) with the IBP.
 

Turboyota

Senior Member
Mar 29, 2017
2,395
241
63
Yucaipa
#2
Currently installing 2 sets of King IBPs(on the Turboyota & Mobza). Roy at ODRMSE has them on a few trucks and says they are fantastic. I believe his quote was “night and day difference versus regular coilovers.” Roy’s extensive first-hand experience really sold me on the kings...

When compressing the IBPs that I have, the bump zone is VERY evident. You can feel the compression stiffen as soon as the tapered pin starts to engage into the shaft, and then it feels incredibly stiff when the pin fully engages in the shaft and the secondary valving kicks in.

Compression adjuster makes a big difference as well.

I wish I had better info than just bench tests...

Here are some pics of the internals and the application-specific valving(LT V6 ranger) that King supplied on the 2.5x10’s. I didn’t disassemble the adjuster to check the valving in there.
But dang, there are 2 compression stacks and 2 rebound stacks inside the shock and another compression stack in the compression adjuster. 5X total shim stacks.






 

84prerunner

2:AM Fabrication
Feb 7, 2008
21,453
39
48
Covina CA
#5
Let me know how those work out ryan! The concept behind them seems great. The problem for me right now is i want more out of the front end (dont we all?) but adding a bypass requires adding upper and lower mounts, redoing all AC lines and new upper arms. seems so much easier to just add a 2.5 IPB and be done, but am i going to get enough out of it and/or are they going to cook? seems lke going up to a 3.0 IBP is better, but then i need new lower mounts, new coils blah blah blah at that point i might as well just add a seperate bypass.
 

84projectford

Senior Member
Sep 8, 2010
575
83
28
Phoenix Az
#6
Let me know how those work out ryan! The concept behind them seems great. The problem for me right now is i want more out of the front end (dont we all?) but adding a bypass requires adding upper and lower mounts, redoing all AC lines and new upper arms. seems so much easier to just add a 2.5 IPB and be done, but am i going to get enough out of it and/or are they going to cook? seems lke going up to a 3.0 IBP is better, but then i need new lower mounts, new coils blah blah blah at that point i might as well just add a seperate bypass.
If you are running a 2.5 now, you will probably get a cooler running shock with the 2.5 IBP over what you have now as you wont have heavy valving restricting the oil since it can flow around through the shock shaft, then when you hit a good bump, the bump zone kicks in to slow it down. i dont know what kind of difference you will see as its dependent on alot of different variables. I know when i went from standard 2.0 foxs on the back of my sand car to 2.5 fox IBP (technically a 2.0 as the piston is still 2.0 diameter but uses two walls for bleed holes) i went from double stacked .020 with a flutter and really hot shocks after a hour ride in the dunes to .015 on the top 3 and .020 on the bottom 2, no double stacks and no flutter and it was way smoother in the chop, much better bottom out control and shocks barely get warm now.
 

Drayke

Always Baja Bound
Jan 29, 2007
841
30
28
Torrance
#8
//sidetrack
totally unrelated to this thread topic - but it cracks me up everytime i see a WP shock knowing that the name means "white power"
/sidetrackOver
 

Turboyota

Senior Member
Mar 29, 2017
2,395
241
63
Yucaipa
#10
Let me know how those work out ryan! The concept behind them seems great. The problem for me right now is i want more out of the front end (dont we all?) but adding a bypass requires adding upper and lower mounts, redoing all AC lines and new upper arms. seems so much easier to just add a 2.5 IPB and be done, but am i going to get enough out of it and/or are they going to cook? seems lke going up to a 3.0 IBP is better, but then i need new lower mounts, new coils blah blah blah at that point i might as well just add a seperate bypass.
I will report back with reviews on the following:

1. 2.5x10” IBP with compression adjuster clicker on the Mobza

2. 3.0x10” IBP with compression adjuster clicker on the Turboyota(if I ever finish the fucker...) I am hoping that the 3.0 IBPs will be the end-all “forever shocks” on the front of that little truck.

———————

Back to the 2.5” IBPs that are going on the Mobza....

King supplied the following valving:

Bump zone piston—previously known simply as “regular piston”.
This guy:

Compression: standard 0.020” stack
Rebound: standard 0.010” stack
1X tiny free bleed to ease assembly—no other free bleed holes in the gray anodized piston.

Red anodized (now the primary(¿I think?)) piston with IBP and Patent number laser etched on it:
Compression:
1.75” x 0.008”
1.00” x 0.008” Flutter
1.60” x 0.012”
1.45” x 0.012”
1.30” x 0.012”
1.15” x 0.012”
1.00” x 0.012”

Rebound:
1.60” x 0.010”
1.45” x 0.010”
1.30” x 0.010”
1.15” x 0.010”
1.00” x 0.010”

The silver colored top cap of this piston assembly has 3X 0.060” unthreaded free bleed holes in it.


Taken apart it looks like this:


The goldish-colored shims that can be seen under the silver top cap are the rebound shims.


Please feel free to ridicule me if I misstated anything about the function of these babies. I don’t want to lead anyone astray.
 

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