My Single Cab Ranger Hooptie

[oorracing]

Totally doable. Put the C pillar of the cage outside the cab (that gives you about 2”-2.5” more room at the back of the cab) tuck the roof tubes tight, and ditch the huge stock dash. Going to an aftermarket dash will free up so much legroom and make it comfortable in there.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[marcytech]

coming from the guy who wanted to put a t100 cab on a ranger frame because "im just too big for extended cab rangers"

 

[charlie_brown]

before you drop that sohc in, change out that plastic thermal stat housing for a cast one. I had to change out the plastic one every year because of leaks and it suck ass. also change the timing chain. all 3 of them. in order to change the rear one after it is installed, you either need to use a hole saw the fire wall or pull the motor.

 

[charlie_brown]

before you drop that sohc in, change out that plastic thermal stat housing for a cast one. I had to change out the plastic one every year because of leaks and it suck ass. also change the timing chain. all 3 of them. in order to change the rear one after it is installed, you either need to use a hole saw the fire wall or pull the motor.

I used the auto fab motor mounts which are very good and easy but.... the motor sits very high and can be tricky to get some cross over tubs to clear the hood/engine. some other people "notch" the cross member to sit the motor lower.

 

[charlie_brown]

before you drop that sohc in, change out that plastic thermal stat housing for a cast one. I had to change out the plastic one every year because of leaks and it suck ass. also change the timing chain. all 3 of them. in order to change the rear one after it is installed, you either need to use a hole saw the fire wall or pull the motor

 

[KaiserJ]

before you drop that sohc in, change out that plastic thermal stat housing for a cast one. I had to change out the plastic one every year because of leaks and it suck ass. also change the timing chain. all 3 of them. in order to change the rear one after it is installed, you either need to use a hole saw the fire wall or pull the motor

Thanks for the heads up! I️ do plan on having some preventative stuff done on the motor before it goes in, timing chains like you’ve said, water pump, & probably swap gaskets on stuff just to make sure I️ don’t have any leaking issues once it’s in the truck like you’ve mentioned.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[KaiserJ]

Got the cracked hanger welded up, and the sheared one welded, grinder, and plated on both sides. This should hold me over until I can link it, (so hopefully it holds for a few years lol)

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[the bodj]

Solid. Next time, tack the corners so you don't have to run them over when welding your bead.

 

[KaiserJ]

Solid. Next time, tack the corners so you don't have to run them over when welding your bead.

Good idea, it was hard to weld the corners haha thanks!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[the bodj]

You got it! Also, try to make your tack welds as small as you can. The less metal you have to run over, the better