Project G4 AKA QuasiGhetto

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FasterNU

Mega Member
Jun 28, 2006
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Holy shit Aaron. That’s a nice rear end
That's what she said? LOL. I know right.... Probably a bit outside my budget. oops. Like barge said. All ghetto cred is gone now! hhahah

Add your truss and such to the housing before you have the snouts welded in, that way they can make it straight if need be.
I don't think this thing will need a truss!? Fully fabbed center that stretches out pretty far ... and 4" x .250 wall tubes.

I will be adding link pockets, upper link pockets and caliper tabs. Don't think any of those would really warp it though... But yea, I should definitely do any work BEFORE they make sure it's straight

LOL, easy there turdbo! Don't wanna strain those last 3x brain cells of mine! Pretty crazy the difference in strength from the bottom versus sides! I assume that is for a solid section of plate. I wonder what the sides would equate to once I hollow out most of it and only leave a .5" border.

And good info there barge for anyone looking to make links. Cool to see this knowledge sharing. But WTF? Like ooracing said ....them there links look backwards with the shocks way up there at front!

PS. I think I could easily add those "doubled up" plates in the canoe pocket that run along top of vertical stringer and weld up to tubes for bolts and the sides. I think those vertical stringers are either 3/16" or maybe even 1/4" in my case. I think 3/16 but I will check.

Oh, and for the record Turdblo.... the only couple of failures I have seen were from buckling in the center at thinnest point of top plate. (on his design with a single vertical rib) Simple solution seemed to be a vertical plate that spans across pocket horizontally.. then get's a top plate keyed to it.

like so:

 
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FasterNU

Mega Member
Jun 28, 2006
6,677
226
63
42
San Diego
btw... shocks showed up. I decided to go Fox this time. Shit, I have played with all the other major brands... why not.

Have to say. Looking at them from the outside, they seem to have some nice touches. Rebuildable fittings, orings on misaligns, good machining. Shit, I think the ressy oulet fitting is a 90* clockable fitting too.

We'll see what the insides look like soon enough for the real scoop though!

It's too bad they seem so damn long compared to a SAW. And in regards to that body length difference: I have been noticing... it looks like people run more spring length on these vs a SAW? As in it seems people with 14" shocks have 20" of spring. Am I crazy?

BTW: Box says 22lbs. BUT>>> once outa the box... they actually weigh in at 19.4lbs/ea. for a 2.5 factory series coil over, no springs.

 
Jun 28, 2006
6,677
226
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San Diego
Got the fun stuff started. Have to say... the "PAD" cage notes from G3 thread are proving to be pretty damn accurate. Saving a ton of time.

So far, the only thing really missing from the notes is that I will have to trim down the lower a-pillar tube. So far I have taken off .5". It's still a bit long i think... and I will probably end up around 1" off. (I want to check G3 for reference) I remember notching off quite a bit on his truck when I did it too. It wouldn't change the build notes really... because the shortest amount of tube I need before a bend is 3.5". So you would need to cut it off anyway. I will add an additional side note to the PAD notes to make them almost perfect.

Saturday was spent removing dash and windows and drilling roof holes. And working on other peoples cars. LOL Sunday was only day I did much.

Staring at my cage pile.... ready for action... trying to get motivated.



The holes out the roof from Saturday. Here are some measurements on where I put the holes. Scribed a line across too when making sure holes were level. Should be within .1 of level.



about 1/2 or so up from window line...



and about 1/4- 5/16 or so away from the body seam. Don't want to weld around that fucking seam sealer



and like 1" away from the ran gutter molding...




And in order to exit the cab up front... if you look at the fender well pockets from outside... there is a seam perpendicular to frame rails....where it is doubled up for reinforcement. Cut a horizontal cut just on the side above that seam... it will be floor level. Then there is another pinch weld seam/ridge that travels parallel to the frame on the outer portion of floor/body. That is the mark for making your vertical cuts. Boom, shaka laka you made perfect holes that shouldnt be too hard to patch.



First tube from the PAD notes is placed in the cab!!
I will probably angle this tube up some... which means I will have to grind a little off the miter cut. I feel like it's stronger when you go up towards corners of c-channel.



Look at those lines... not bad:





Then the a-pillar tubes... and lower b-pillar cross member







Oh yea.. and some dickwad RTV'd the fucking third brake on. That was a fun little time delay to get off on Sat.



Here you can see how the front of the cage is too tall because I think the lower a-pillar tube is too long. I think the lower tube needs some massaging. Also need to remove a little more of body I think. (pinch weld seam the VIN is riveted to actually...) I like it tight!



Oh yea.. and Justin removed the Fuel tank and cut off exhaust.. and removed pop out window stuff. Gonna go back to non pop out windows. Check out how retarded Ford factory is??? Makes me feel a little better. top hole is fucked... and they had 2x sets of holes on the bottom! DURR da DURRRRRR

 
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Jun 28, 2006
6,677
226
63
42
San Diego
^^^^ wellll, it's definitely prety good from the start.... but, it still needed some fine tuning. I ended up taking 1" off the lower a-pillar tube In fact, I will probably even do a tiny bit more up on top of lower a-pillar tube. (3/16"" off to make sleeve butt joint have gaps perfect for the weld)

Here is what I did last night. If you want to tuck it real tight... you need to cut off pinch weld seam at bottom of windshield (the metal that the VIN attaches to). Just cut it over to the edge of VIN.

Then you need to cut out this pocket. All sorts of room for activities now...



Apply some MC Hammer here.... to bend the hump back in... Just a tappy tap. She doesn't take much. It's not like you need to full on donkey punch this thin ass metal.



Then it will look like this:



Re-insert your tube. Yup, still toight like a toiger ... But no lube needed.



Now, that's what I call tittays!



Well except it's missing a decent gap for weld at butt joint. So, it's only 1 titty.



Next up.. fine tune the passenger side! So, go over to passenger side and cut here...




And then realize a bunch of shit is in the way.... and go eat fish tacos and wait till tomorrow for more updates.

 

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