Project: Mobza--Pretending we are 17 again

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Senior Member
Mar 29, 2017
I like that design to accomodate for the master cylinder removal. How much distance is necessary to leave available in front? ive never removed one before. Thanks
Thanks! It works!

Approximately 3/4” to 1” clearance is required to remove the master cylinder. Cutting the studs down that protrude out of the booster helps.



Senior Member
Mar 29, 2017
Reworked the front seat mount tube.

Iteration 1
This tube-over-tube with end caps scheme bothered me:

I shitcanned that plan and mitered the forward seat tube down to the door tubes. Dropped some little tubes down to the frame to make it function as a crossmember as well.

Iteration 2:

I carefully cut the floor out, so i was able to reuse the sections and weld those bitches right back in:

Trans tunnel area:
Welded in 0.050” strips as gap filler:



Mega Member
Jun 28, 2006
San Diego
Looks good. Lots o work!!

But, uhhh did you close up the bottom layer back at c-pillar? I did on G3. But on 2Ghetto I didn't.

Dust, etc can still get through because that internal hump isn't sealed for shit. It has considerable openings into that open space of quarter panels(for stock rear seats and jack) on both sides. Take a gander. About 2" tall and finger wide hole in back corners of hump that open to the pocket area. Mine also didn't seal well along the top of that vertical ridge that separates hump from pocket.

I just addressed this the other day with 2G. Easy fix should work. I just made some small 18 gauge plates with 90* bend. Tacked um in to cover holes that go to pockets.... and sealed the shit out of the seams with a bunch of RTV.

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