Rebuilding sway away 2.5 remote resi coilovers

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OceansideLocal

This is bat country!
Aug 31, 2007
2,630
5
38
30
San Diego , Ca.
#1
So im no stranger to rebuilding shocks but its been close to 5 years since ive done it. Ive got the shocks all taken apart and seals replacement done. And im getting ready to put everything together. Now here is where im kinda of confused, when it comes to setting the piston depth. From everything ive read and watch it looks like i set the floating piston 3.5 inchs acording to the saw website from the end of the resi and then start filling my shock bodies with oil. From there i can put shop air to pressurize the shock to make sure it cycles correctly. Just wanted to know if there was a step a was missing in a lot of videos it shows a need for a special tool that goes on the shader valve that you need tp cycle the air out. Do i really need that? Thanks in advance-josh
 

Jr.fab

Senior Member
Feb 22, 2010
1,582
2
38
24
Hell Cajon
#2
No need for the tool, it's more for luxury. I pull the IFP about 2" up from bottomed out on the fluid side. Fill the shock about 3" with fluid. If you have the tool cycle the piston until it stops bubbling. If you don't have the tool, just wiggle the resi and tap it a little. Don't put any pressure in the shock until the seal head is in and held with the snapring. I usually put the scrader cover on last so i can make sure my piston depths are the same.

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Jr.fab

Senior Member
Feb 22, 2010
1,582
2
38
24
Hell Cajon
#3
If you want the tool, instead of paying the $25 or whatever it is from orw i got a piece of 1/4-20 all thread and tightened 2 nuts to a washer. I use the washer as a handle aswell as setting the pistons equally.

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FasterNU

Mega Member
Jun 28, 2006
6,666
224
63
42
San Diego
#5
Here are the rebuild instructions. Do yourself a favor and print out some of the valving sheets. :)

http://www.swayaway.net/joomla/imag...s/9921--2-5IN-REMOTE-RESERVOIR_RandR-REVA.pdf


Now, with that said. I don't fuck around and waste time trying to set the piston depth. Fill shock 3/4 of the way with oil. Get all the air out. Then bottom the IFP piston out. Fill the shock with oil to a little below the circlip retaining ring. Then insert the piston. Once you get to the seal head... it will push the IFP away from the end because of the displacement. Insert circlip. Charge shock.

This is the most efficient and repeatable way to do it. It's simple, it works. I've been doing it for years.

* the way I bottom out IFP is this. I just hit it with N2 and charge shock to 20-30psi! Then once I get the piston in and about to push in the seal head.. release the pressure. Then push in seal head and it will displace the oil like I said
 

84prerunner

2:AM Fabrication
Feb 7, 2008
21,482
54
48
Covina CA
#6
Here are the rebuild instructions. Do yourself a favor and print out some of the valving sheets. :)http://www.swayaway.net/joomla/imag...s/9921--2-5IN-REMOTE-RESERVOIR_RandR-REVA.pdfNow, with that said. I don't fuck around and waste time trying to set the piston depth. Fill shock 3/4 of the way with oil. Get all the air out. Then bottom the IFP piston out. Fill the shock with oil to a little below the circlip retaining ring. Then insert the piston. Once you get to the seal head... it will push the IFP away from the end because of the displacement. Insert circlip. Charge shock.This is the most efficient and repeatable way to do it. It's simple, it works. I've been doing it for years.* the way I bottom out IFP is this. I just hit it with N2 and charge shock to 20-30psi! Then once I get the piston in and about to push in the seal head.. release the pressure. Then push in seal head and it will displace the oil like I said
This is how I do 99% of shocks I rebuild. The last set (happen to be SAWs) I did I moved the IFP 1.5" away from the hose end. That adds more oil volume. Trying this because we are having temperature issues melting seals, hoping the added oil volume will get us another mile or 2 before things start to melt lol
 

96f-u250

Senior Member
Sep 27, 2013
776
34
28
VenTurA 805!
#7
I read somewhere on here that a higher pressure of Nitrogen in the reservoir will aid in decreasing shock temps? What pressure are the shocks that are overheating set to? Any tried that out before?
 
Nov 9, 2008
305
55
28
Carolina South
#9
Here are the rebuild instructions. Do yourself a favor and print out some of the valving sheets. :)

http://www.swayaway.net/joomla/imag...s/9921--2-5IN-REMOTE-RESERVOIR_RandR-REVA.pdf


Now, with that said. I don't fuck around and waste time trying to set the piston depth. Fill shock 3/4 of the way with oil. Get all the air out. Then bottom the IFP piston out. Fill the shock with oil to a little below the circlip retaining ring. Then insert the piston. Once you get to the seal head... it will push the IFP away from the end because of the displacement. Insert circlip. Charge shock.

This is the most efficient and repeatable way to do it. It's simple, it works. I've been doing it for years.

* the way I bottom out IFP is this. I just hit it with N2 and charge shock to 20-30psi! Then once I get the piston in and about to push in the seal head.. release the pressure. Then push in seal head and it will displace the oil like I said
I Can't get the link to work. Do you have an updated link or could email me the info. I just got some SAW 2.5 w/resi for my little driveway Fab shitbox I'm building.


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