Revamping the old 83 pickup with the tweaker cab!

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the bodj

1st post pg805
Mar 4, 2010
10,083
37
48
Moorpark
#51
So mine is currently set as far back as possible on the truck. And then the spares sit above it. Which currently one spare was mounted but I’m going to try and have twonstanding up instead.

Just weird cause the existing fuel cell is tiny and it’s mounted very very low. Which i don’t really mind just trying to get a few different optionS.

I need to figure out how big it is too.
Do you have room to mount a tire standing up on either side of the cell?
 
Likes: itsmassari

itsmassari

Junior Member
Apr 14, 2014
47
3
8
#53
Well, the motor and trans go in today. Should hopefully fire up the truck by Wednesday.

So Far into the truck I’m at
600 race take off 33’s
780 bucks new Intake and Carb from LC engineering
200 radiator, coolant, other odds and ends.

When complete, I’ll be taking it to my local Fabshop to have some shockhoops added, possibly adding coilovers and bumpstops and eliminating the hack front end. The arms seem solid


The dual shock set up is kinda ugly and shitty.


I’m picking up some Deavers for 275
With bypasses, and bumps, the back will be complete for now. The front end I’m trying to figure out the best way to dial in.

I know for sure I’m gonna step away from the dual shock set up

Deciding between just a 2.5 Resevoir with bumps and keeping torsions
Or go coilovers.

Advice 🤷🏽‍♂️
 
Jan 19, 2010
208
31
28
Woodland Hills, Ca
#55
Nice work. lets see some engine shots. been wrenching on mine last few days too. curious how it turns out.

Mad Max look 100%. mount the battery and wheels where they are, blower sticking out of the hood. lol

threaded body shocks would be my thought. can swap coils on if/when your ready. I may want those torsions to keep my truck off jack stands in my front yard when rebuilding my front shocks. let me know if you end up ditching them.
 
Likes: itsmassari
Jan 29, 2007
705
23
18
Ventura, CA
#56
FYI, the rear springs are all pro off road springs. They are shorter than deaver F55/F67 so if you're swapping to one of those packs you need to redo the front spring hangers and shackle mounts.

It's going to need a fabricated lift spindle for the front to stuff any tire bigger than 31's.

The spindles and lower ball joint are 79-83, they are different than 84-95 2wd pickups.
The lower ball joint sits on top of the spindle instead of underneath it. The ball joint bolt pattern at the a-arm is slightly different but could maybe swap for 89-95 ball joints and use a custom tube works lift spindle or old fabtech spindle.
The lower could be converted to a uniball cup and run a TC style lift spindle. Don't know how different the steering geometry is off the drag link though for bump steer for either option.

I've heard it's possible to run a complete 84-95 TC uniball kit except for the strut frame, the front crossmember location is different.

The torsion bars are for 84-95 2wd trucks, they require the front a-arm torsion key from 89-95 to work on 79-83 pickups. The outer bolt hole on the key is a different length. Think they were Downey off road bars, not sway-a-way.

Front fenders are hanneman, bedsides are trailer products.

Fuel cell and seats are cheap summit racing stuff.

Sucks someone did some hack fab support for the shock "hoops"

Glad to see this truck still alive, built this truck in a storage unit with an angle grinder, a chop saw, and a 110 MIG welder wired into the fluorescent lighting system almost 20 years ago.
Haven't seen it for prob 15 years.

If I remember right it's a 4 speed and might have an 8" rear diff instead of a 7.5"

Cage is all mild steel.

Truck was originally an open top, windshield and exposed cage, became my daily driver for a little, then it started raining, and that's the story behind the roof.

Sold this truck a long time ago for super cheap and it's changed hands a few time since then so that's all the info you'll get out of me.

Good luck with the build!
 
Apr 14, 2014
47
3
8
#57
I’ll get some motor pictures tonight. Pretty excited to see how much power this thing gives me. No ac, heater, deleted the smog, and running electric power steering so i should get as much hp as possible.

I did the offenhausr intake with a new Weber 38.
Have after market headers and an exhaust that dumps out the rear fender.

Happy- man I’m stoked you were able to give me some info on the build!

Seats are getting swapped to PRP’s

The diff is an 8” with brand new gears, welded.

The leaf spring info is good to know.
I have the deavers and noticed the difference in length, due to that i may hold off for a bit.


I’m getting it running by tommorow night, then it’s off to the fab shop for a little work. Going to figure out the front suspension, and what I’m gonna change, do new hoops etc.

Adding bump stops all the way around which will be a huge improvement.

I’m really tempted to get it running and do a trip on it as is and see how it does. I drive the shit out of my trucks and wanna give this a run for the money.

Before i put money where i might not have to, i rather beat it up and see if/what breaks.


The torsions have since been changed. The old downeys used to be white if I’m not mistaken, and the current ones are the red which was why i made the guess i did.

Keep checking in and hopefully you can see the finished product.
 
Likes: Happysmiley
#59
you running electric fuel pump? noticed the block plate.

Not sure about the 38/38 but i know the 32/36 i got recommends 3psi on the carb side of the system, arguable less. stock 22r mechanical fuel pump operates in the 6psi range. nearly double.

also the carb installation recommends running one vacuum line for the port side only. found this article that pretty well explains why you should have both port and manifold vacuum on your distributor. You can draw your own conclusion but here is the article.

http://chevellestuff.net/tech/articles/vacuum/port_or_manifold.htm
 

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