rough in the smaller stuff

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Feb 24, 2003
16,065
66
48
Las Vegas
#1
I'm sure the info I'm looking for is buried and exists in this area somewhere in one of the many in depth threads but screw it, I'm starting a fresh one and seeing what I get for info.

Our race truck... 2.5" king coil over/ 3" bypass up front. Leafs in the rear with a 3" bypass.

I can't imagine a truck being setup and capable of running in the big hard deep whoops any better then we are. I've got A LOT of seat time in the truck and it still to this day absolutely blows me away what it'll go through at speed in the big stuff!

But, on the small stuff... Like say chatter bumps in the washes, rocky sections, basically bumps say 6"-7" and smaller it knocks our teeth out!

I'm not looking for a what valving should I run type of reply. I'm simply looking for what area of the tuning should I be looking towards? A where should I start sort of thing? I'd like to hopefully not affect the performance in the BIG whoops much if any at all but still try to get this thing a lot softer in the small stuff...

Bleed screws? bypass clickers? If so, which tube zone/s? Shim stacks? Something else?

I can post our valving setup but like I said, I'm not looking really for a what should we run but more of a give me some hints where to look and I'll go out and put the work in to learn it myself...

Thanks!
 
Aug 13, 2007
1,072
0
36
Riverside
#2
What psi are you running in the tires? Kinda silly and off topic from the way you are going but sometimes dropping 3-5 psi can make a difference in that annoying choppy stuff and doesn't affect your tune. I have also heard adding flutter shims helps with the chop but have zero experience with doing that and not sure if it will have a negative effect in the bigger stuff. I don't think turning tubes will help being the small stuff you are describing would barely get you into the bypass tubes.
 

partybarge_pilot

Uno mas Cervesa!
May 14, 2004
9,343
230
63
Easton, KS
#3
Bleed screws for chop.

Also, to expand on the tire deal, using regular air in them? Might want to check the pressure rise when hot. On a TT we were gaining almost 15PSI from cold to hot with air. Switching to nitrogen will get rid of moisture and cut down on pressure build from heat.
 

oorracing

<span style="color: orange;">DR Mod</span>
Jan 15, 2006
10,500
40
48
Long Beach Ca
#4
Removing bleed screws in the piston will affect your bump zone and the hits that utilize the bump zone. King offers poppet valves 0-3 bleed holes in them already. Figure out which compression tube the piston is in at ride height and swap that poppet out for one with bleed holes. You can also swap to softer poppet springs to make the valve pop open more easily


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---------- Post added at 04:00 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:00 PM ----------

The bleeds will affect your rebound damping though do be prepared to turn the rebound in some


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Aug 13, 2007
1,072
0
36
Riverside
#7
So these bleed screws in the piston, are they actual screws that thread out with a allen? I am staring at 2 pistons both Fox a 2.5 and a 2.0 each have 2 "bleed screw ports" open all the way through and both have 2 half way open on the rebound side but don't go through the compression side, and I am not seeing any screws in there it looks to be just drilled half way
 

FasterNU

Mega Member
Jun 28, 2006
6,439
86
48
42
San Diego
#9
So these bleed screws in the piston, are they actual screws that thread out with a allen? I am staring at 2 pistons both Fox a 2.5 and a 2.0 each have 2 "bleed screw ports" open all the way through and both have 2 half way open on the rebound side but don't go through the compression side, and I am not seeing any screws in there it looks to be just drilled half way
It's only a "free bleed" if it goes all the way through and lets the oil pass thru the piston without having to go thru the shim stacks. It flows on both rebound and comp.

SAW 2.5's have 3x threaded holes with allen bolts. All Kings I have personally messed with are threaded too. (2.5 and 3.0)

The Radflo 2.5" race piston is NOT threaded if I recall correctly. And it's only a single small hole. You would have to tap it and add a bolt to plug it.

Not sure about the fox pistons.
 
Aug 13, 2007
1,072
0
36
Riverside
#10
So if I have a sand rail that beats the life out of you in the small choppy stuff and I have 2 bleeds open in the piston would you guys recommend drilling out an additional 2 holes in the piston or maybe just drilling 1? Would that help? Just single coil over no bypasses on the car


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