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bri_man57

Need to Build
Jul 11, 2005
2,463
14
38
31
Ventura, California
I'm used to shackles leaning further back at bump, and further forward at droop. Looks off to me still.

Kevin, the way I'm describing is locking the shackle max at droop so there really isn't a way to be a couple inches off at the axle. I prefer this method because it gives you a starting point. Sure, bump is extremely important, more so then droop, but it can be difficult to set it up like that. Obviously dude is struggling and looking to us for help. Having the shackle push the rear eyelet forward at droop is bad, having it pull back at droop is bad (some is okay though IMO). I feel like the pack wants to return to its free arch length so you should let it, maybe slightly back from that.

Regarless, either way you do it, your taking packs apart and putting them back together and checking it. If you set it up where the leaf is comfortable at droop, doesn't get crazy DE arch at bump, shackle leaning forward at ride height, acceptable ride height, I'd run it.

Most of my experience is with ranger spring overs which can have lots of DE arch so it makes it difficult to set it up with the main. It will hit the bed when it's flat lol.

I set my 64s up like how I described, and scooted them back slightly. Main leaf is flat at bump, had to push the rear leaf slightly back to get it in the shackle, good ride height, and ended up in a somewhat normal location. But 64s are cheating because the front mount is so low it makes it easy.

And just for the record, I check droop with a full pack as the free arch length will be much different compare to a single main leaf.

Sent from my SM-G900T3 using Tapatalk
 
Nov 9, 2008
259
31
28
Carolina South
I thank y'all for all the help. I'll have to wait till I get/ make some drop hangers and extended shackles. I'll cycle it a few times and get some better pics and seek more of y'all's guidance. Keep pouring on the knowledge!!!

Thank y'all so much!


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the bodj

1st post pg805
Mar 4, 2010
10,131
51
48
Moorpark
I'm used to shackles leaning further back at bump, and further forward at droop. Looks off to me still.

Kevin, the way I'm describing is locking the shackle max at droop so there really isn't a way to be a couple inches off at the axle. I prefer this method because it gives you a starting point. Sure, bump is extremely important, more so then droop, but it can be difficult to set it up like that. Obviously dude is struggling and looking to us for help. Having the shackle push the rear eyelet forward at droop is bad, having it pull back at droop is bad (some is okay though IMO). I feel like the pack wants to return to its free arch length so you should let it, maybe slightly back from that.

Regarless, either way you do it, your taking packs apart and putting them back together and checking it. If you set it up where the leaf is comfortable at droop, doesn't get crazy DE arch at bump, shackle leaning forward at ride height, acceptable ride height, I'd run it.

Most of my experience is with ranger spring overs which can have lots of DE arch so it makes it difficult to set it up with the main. It will hit the bed when it's flat lol.

I set my 64s up like how I described, and scooted them back slightly. Main leaf is flat at bump, had to push the rear leaf slightly back to get it in the shackle, good ride height, and ended up in a somewhat normal location. But 64s are cheating because the front mount is so low it makes it easy.

And just for the record, I check droop with a full pack as the free arch length will be much different compare to a single main leaf.

Sent from my SM-G900T3 using Tapatalk
I see what you're saying (I think). Ideally, your shackle shouldn't be pushing or pulling (requiring the correct length of shackle).
 

bri_man57

Need to Build
Jul 11, 2005
2,463
14
38
31
Ventura, California
And I see what your saying too. You want it to be flat at bump for sure and that eyelet is essentially a fixed point. But then you have to setup the shackle at a correct angle that can be difficult to identify since there is much variability there. You could keep that fixed point with many different shackle angles/hanger locations.

My shackle hits my hanger at droop though, so it's easy to set it up like that and flop it to the frame.

Leafs are dumb, should if just linked it lol.

I see what you're saying (I think). Ideally, your shackle shouldn't be pushing or pulling (requiring the correct length of shackle).
Sent from my SM-G900T3 using Tapatalk
 
Likes: the bodj

the bodj

1st post pg805
Mar 4, 2010
10,131
51
48
Moorpark
Grab some graphing paper and draw up a scaled version of your rear end (from a profile view). Grab a compass (not the N,S,E,W kind) and start making some arcs. See where they intersect.
 

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