Why do 930 CV click (actual cause of the noise)

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84projectford

Senior Member
Sep 8, 2010
575
83
28
Phoenix Az
#1
Ok, so ive asked this on a few different forums and the "experts" just feed the same BS you read on the net "you're running too much angle" blah blah blah fuck off, im going deeper than that (like your mom).

My sand car runs 930 plunging CV's with a built bus 091 (all weddle bull shit and yeah) and a honda 3.2 v6 (fucking vtec brooooo!!!!). Anyhow, ive ran race prepped GKN bone stock CV's, empi CV's with just chromoly cages, and now have RCV cv's (none of that 300m bs, im not that big of a pimp). Anyhow, shes on 5x5 arms with micro stubs and runs a 23" long axle. ive made sure the axles have plunge at full droop (about 3/4" of plunge left) and still have 1/4" of clearance between the trans hub and micro stub with the axles perfectly flat. i run 26-27* of axle angle at full droop with 2* of forward angle when i was on 3x3 arms. on the 5x5 arms i have next to 0 at full droop. the original guy who did the suspension on this thing didnt know much about vw trailing arms and had all kinds of wonky things setup, one of which was the trans/engine too far back but my longer arms have fix that.

the Empi's were back ups till i hurt a GKN the first ride out, then one empi went on the car for the next two seasons. i always had clicking when you got to about 23* and more. didnt matter how much grease you packed in there. So i tore them down nov of last year and noticed the stock GKN cages had some indents into them, empi cv looked titties. tried cleaning them up with a dremel cause thats what the internet said to do and all would be well. yeah that didnt fucking work. first run out they fucking clicked like hell. all cv back on the same side and orientation they came off of. tried to find answers as to why they did this, got nothing. Durning that time i built 5x5 arms and went micro stubs so the only thing that changed was the axle length but again, still had plenty of plunge at full droop, no more than 26* of angle at full droop, and fresh full fudge packed broke back mountain style of grease in those bitches. Went down for a week for TG at the dunes and i hammered on the fucker through whoops trying to get a CV to pop, nadda.

Said fuck it, lets try some RCV, those bitches have lifetime warranty and the groupies love them, might even bring a few brohoes to the car??? threw them in and made some changes. i ran small boot flanges on the cv to help keep some grease in the CV and keep the bolts out of the grease. you could see where the balls hit the flanges so i figured that might be part of my click. removed them, ran no flange and put a leather over-the-cv style boot on the INNER cv only, outers still ran small boot flanges as they dont see the angle the inners do and were not hitting the flanges. on jack stands and running turning brakes under power, seemed titties... then on the first trip i exploded one coming off a little step down where i wasnt even driving the fucker hard. Got it warrantied out and off we go to a ride in feb. One CV starts some faint clicking and starts to get a little worse. threw some more grease in there, limited it to 25* max angle and kinda went away but at this point i gave 0 fucks and enjoyed the weekend of beating on the fucker.

Fast forward to this past week at the dunes. i had not driven the car since feb of this year and only pulled the CV's to throw fresh grease in and do normal last min season prep. Get there and first ride, right inner cv clicks bad but then quiets down some as it heats up. does this the whole week.

So what the fuck causes the actual CV to "click", what is it inside that is binding and causing this? is it the cage not saying on track or overflexing as the CV plunges out? balls have not been properly lubed? needs fondling from a profession off Van Buren st? Im not saying this going to fix my issue but ive limited this bitch up to 25* max angle during my trip in feb and RCV claims max angle of 28* as well as i know plenty of class 1600's that due the same or more. Do those still click in those cars? i probably just have another bad RCV CV ill change out at min but id like to know if there is some clearancing i can fuck with inside or maybe its time to drop to smaller balls (said no one ever) or something else? im going to put flanges back on the inner cv though cause i pulled the limit straps off to check shock nitrogen pressure and at full droop the fucking cages at the inner cv rolled out and the balls popped the fuck out on both sides. the flanges will stop that.

pic of a hot tatted up chick cause thats alot of reading for you boys and no pretty pics to look at

 

84projectford

Senior Member
Sep 8, 2010
575
83
28
Phoenix Az
#5
her nails look scary
could be the big fanned out scoop looking ones

she can make my balls click any day.
nailed it....her... well you get the point

I’ve heard if you run that much angle you need to use undersized balls, I’ve always ran conservative on the angle with 21, no clicking.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
i wouldnt doubt it BUT, what internally is the cause of the click? the downfall of the smaller balls is the increase play in driveline.
 

84projectford

Senior Member
Sep 8, 2010
575
83
28
Phoenix Az
#8
They clack because they are loose. It's a balancing act. To tight and they burn up. To loose and they explode. Race prep with a flapper wheel is an art form.
totally would agree with you but these are the tightest/loosest CV's ive felt if that makes sense. there is no bind as you plunge them and next to no rotational slop (we would be talking .00X amount). the RCV im running have no race prepping in them. they are suppose to be good to go right out of the box. Now the others i did, i can totally see where i probably over did it with the combo of loosening up the cage along with the race prep on the cv.

Any idea on whats causing the clack though? maybe as angle increases, the cage is laying over more than it should, unloading a ball or two, then as it turns more, the balls bind as the cage comes back around and then "click" back into rotation? maybe the cage is grabbing an edge on the CV somewhere or no longer is riding in its groove to rest up against the outer body so play becomes more of an issue to let it click?

If clicking at or near max angle is typical/acceptable, i have no issue running it but knowing why that is and why it wont cause an issue makes me sleep better at night
 

partybarge_pilot

Uno mas Cervesa!
May 14, 2004
9,473
330
83
Easton, KS
#9
They need to be a little tight. I polish the cages with a ball handy to check the fit. If it drops through you took out to much. If it pops in with little pressure and stays there you are there. Assemble them and run it on jackstands fully drooped for about 30 min to break them in. A regular 930 should start to click between 26-28* no matter how tight it is. Want more than that and you will have to go non-plunging.
 

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