Thread: The questions thread

I dont plan on racing and I was wondering if anyone has used this CV kit before? If so does is last or will it break on me.

http://www.mooreparts.com/store/product/5664/AC598220/

Empi does NOT make quality parts. If you limit your travel and are real nice to them, Im sure they'll work. It basically the difference between running race preped 300M CV's vs nice GNK "standard" CV's vs Empi....its a step down. The axles are 4130 axles though from what I could find.

Im looking for a power steering system for my bug but which one would be better? Charlyn being cheaper or ram/rack? I know I want to go with something like Howe or Fortin but they are pretty pricey. Also, whats the advantages between the two.

Originally Posted by fourstroker

Depends on if you like dragging your front end on the ground or not. 3" of extra ground clearance helps out big time. Trust me!



Laser Innovations does some nice plate arms that are still affordable. Not sure if Erik built his own arms or not. I would gues they are either the arms that came on the car or were build by his buddy Jakes Fabworks

Originally Posted by FrontierFighter

I was hoping to hear from you. Thanks and I'm sure I'll be lookin for more wisdom from you in the future.

Erik's rear arms are from Kartek which, I believe is usually Laser Innovations.

Originally Posted by rby5cp

I dont plan on racing and I was wondering if anyone has used this CV kit before? If so does is last or will it break on me.

http://www.mooreparts.com/store/product/5664/AC598220/

CV's are CV's. if you're running a flat 4, chances are you'll be fine. Kind of curious how those axles will work with whatever setup you nay have.
*edit*Nevermind on the axles I see they are 19 1/4"

Originally Posted by MQUnlimited

Im looking for a power steering system for my bug but which one would be better? Charlyn being cheaper or ram/rack? I know I want to go with something like Howe or Fortin but they are pretty pricey. Also, whats the advantages between the two.

My father in law has the Howe ram with a Saco rack. it works really good. I drove a car with a charlyn unit and couldn't really tell a difference.

I guess it is what your budget can afford.......

Originally Posted by WannaB-Class5

Empi does NOT make quality parts. If you limit your travel and are real nice to them, Im sure they'll work. It basically the difference between running race preped 300M CV's vs nice GNK "standard" CV's vs Empi....its a step down. The axles are 4130 axles though from what I could find.

im limiting my travel around 16 inches or so. I dont want to drop a ton of money if I'm not racing, but dont want to have it break down on me in the desert either. Yes the axles are 4130.

Originally Posted by MQUnlimited

Im looking for a power steering system for my bug but which one would be better? Charlyn being cheaper or ram/rack? I know I want to go with something like Howe or Fortin but they are pretty pricey. Also, whats the advantages between the two.

Ive got a Charlyn set up and love it. Havent heard anything negative about it at all. My buddy has the Howe ram on his Baja and it works fine, but he wishes he did Charlyn instead.

Right on, thx for the info. My car will eventually be a-armed, will that make a difference?

Originally Posted by rby5cp

im limiting my travel around 16 inches or so. I dont want to drop a ton of money if I'm not racing, but dont want to have it break down on me in the desert either. Yes the axles are 4130.

I have the GNK CV's and I am limited to 14.5" of travel to stay a degree below 26. I could get two more inches of up travel but my car would be laying on the ground. There is no way I could get 16" of travel at the current up travel without having my CV's run at their limit, and I'd rather have a very reliable car with 1.5" less travel.

That said, my car is LOW on power so I bet I could use all 26*, but again unless I think the rear needs more (and I won't know until I re-valve like 5 more times) I am happy having super reliable drivetrain.

The good thing is those axles are good. Buy that kit and if you spin a CV you can easliy upgrade CV's down the road. I never leave home without a spare CV anyway.

How do you cut and turn a front beam

If anyone has pictures that would be great too

thanks in advance

You litterally cut out a 3" wide section of your beam (the center section because that part has the slot the leaves go through) then you rotate it up and re-weld it back into place. DONE!

If you are going to cut and turn the beam, I'd buy an adjuster. Its like $30 and then you have some adjustability. The adjuster comes with instructions as well.

Where could I buy the adjuster?

Offroad warehouse might have it since it's sorta close to u

Originally Posted by WannaB-Class5

I have the GNK CV's and I am limited to 14.5" of travel to stay a degree below 26. I could get two more inches of up travel but my car would be laying on the ground. There is no way I could get 16" of travel at the current up travel without having my CV's run at their limit, and I'd rather have a very reliable car with 1.5" less travel.

That said, my car is LOW on power so I bet I could use all 26*, but again unless I think the rear needs more (and I won't know until I re-valve like 5 more times) I am happy having super reliable drivetrain.

The good thing is those axles are good. Buy that kit and if you spin a CV you can easliy upgrade CV's down the road. I never leave home without a spare CV anyway.

it all depends on set up! remember cv`s work with a radius motion , I`ve set cars up with 16" of travel with a 002 and std 3x3 arms with spring plates notched remember you can also cut stars toget alittle more travel also! this is also with coilovers, you can`t get that much travel with torsion bars unless you use the 300m bars that will allow for more degrees of twist! the Laser 10 degree kit with clearenced frame horns gusseted on the bottom i`m pretty harsh on cv`s also so I buy just stock cv`s cut the stars, and put a Chromoly cage in them with undersized balls for the first 100 miles or so and then deburr if necessary! the type IE. Lobro, Gkn, Empi are all about the smae in my experience the only one`s that vary are the 934`s and series 30`s! just my opinion! like I tell everyone that looks at my car "I ain`t rich, and hate when I have to change thing`s cause i was in a hurry and didn`t buy what i actually needed! rby5cp give me a call when you wanna set up the rear of your car, I`ll help you out !

Originally Posted by drtbuggy

it all depends on set up! remember cv`s work with a radius motion , I`ve set cars up with 16" of travel with a 002 and std 3x3 arms with spring plates notched remember you can also cut stars toget alittle more travel also! this is also with coilovers, you can`t get that much travel with torsion bars unless you use the 300m bars that will allow for more degrees of twist! the Laser 10 degree kit with clearenced frame horns gusseted on the bottom i`m pretty harsh on cv`s also so I buy just stock cv`s cut the stars, and put a Chromoly cage in them with undersized balls for the first 100 miles or so and then deburr if necessary! the type IE. Lobro, Gkn, Empi are all about the smae in my experience the only one`s that vary are the 934`s and series 30`s! just my opinion! like I tell everyone that looks at my car "I ain`t rich, and hate when I have to change thing`s cause i was in a hurry and didn`t buy what i actually needed! rby5cp give me a call when you wanna set up the rear of your car, I`ll help you out !

def. will do! When I have it rolling and the trans in, I can just trailer it to your shop if thats cool??

When I stated I have 16 inches, that with the plates notched. and from metal to metal, without the cv's and everything in.

The Chromo or 300M cage is the key link. Thats the only part I have seen break on "cheap" CV's. What do you clean up on the star?

Originally Posted by WannaB-Class5

The Chromo or 300M cage is the key link. Thats the only part I have seen break on "cheap" CV's. What do you clean up on the star?

i put them in a tumble, or if not enough time i take off any sharp edges and then da sand them!

So sharp edges = bad...find a way to get rid of them...got it!

Originally Posted by WannaB-Class5

So sharp edges = bad...find a way to get rid of them...got it!

For sure. 1/2" and 3/4" diameter barrel sanders on a die grinder are your friend. I know you guys do not like the EMPI products but let me tell you a little secret. I have ran the EMPI race prep 930's from McKenzies on this car and my last one as well. They have the chromo cages with a basic race prep done to them and only cost $110 each. In 4 years of running them I ahve never broken one. I did have one start knocking due to lack of grease but that is expected with a torn boot.

Kevin that is what I tried to find out! I finally found that the axles are good enough, but could not find out what the cages were or if they were prepped (guess I should have called my lease favorite place, Kartek!) I get my GNK for about the same price but its good to know Empi CV's are okay if taken care of.

I love this thread (and Kevin, your secret is safe with me).

Originally Posted by WannaB-Class5

Kevin that is what I tried to find out! I finally found that the axles are good enough, but could not find out what the cages were or if they were prepped (guess I should have called my lease favorite place, Kartek!) I get my GNK for about the same price but its good to know Empi CV's are okay if taken care of.

I love this thread (and Kevin, your secret is safe with me).

No sweat Pahl. The kicker for me on them was that the race cage was included in the price. By the way I stay away from that place whenever possible. Big Blue M for me.

Just checked all my receipts to see what I got and I run the same CVs as Kevin. No problems on either of my cars.

Originally Posted by TMorf

Just checked all my receipts to see what I got and I run the same CVs as Kevin. No problems on either of my cars.

They are seriously the best deal running. Beats the hell out of $250 from Kartek

Originally Posted by fourstroker

They are seriously the best deal running. Beats the hell out of $250 from Kartek

Yup. Lothringer let me in on that secret when he worked at McKenzies. Just gotta keep em prepped correctly and they last forever.

For a budget car mostly sand use what rear hub/brake setup would you guys run

wide 5 drum`s! cheap and dependable!

K, who makes like a 1x3 (wider x longer?) rear arms for those hubs, im trying to fit all this under a manx body so i have osme serious space restraints

Laser Innovations! talk to Larry or Jason

Originally Posted by drtbuggy

Laser Innovations! talk to Larry or Jason

x2. Jason pretty much runs that palce and will hook you up with what you need

so i think what i need is just some stock trailing arms extend them alittle and change the spring plate to a bushing in board mount deal

anyone have pictures of thier steering setup?...i wanted to use the stock location (in the cab) and go to a saco rack. just not sure on how to run it..I wanted to use my stock steering box but a support tube on my beam is in the way =(

im also unsure on what parts i would be needing..I know i need U jounts..maybe 1 of those..can anyone help with a budget parts list?

Where can i get the bearing carrier for stock irs rear hubs so i can make my own rear trailing arms.

Originally Posted by wastedyouth02

Where can i get the bearing carrier for stock irs rear hubs so i can make my own rear trailing arms.

http://www.mooreparts.com/store/product/1383/AC530030/

If I plan on racing should I mig weld my cage or should I take my time and tig it

Oh bichen, thanks does anyone have like an exploded view of the whole hub deall like the hub bearings axle cv. Im new to all this CV stuff and am trying to wrap my head around it.


Most peoples cages are MIG welded and its plenty strong

If I do a-arms on my bug should I use 1"heims or 1"uniballs?
should I have them mounted horizontal or vertical?
is uniball worth spending a little extra cash for?
how much stronger are uniballs than heims?

If I did A-arms I would use these (cheapish and you run Combo Spindles) so you'd be using verticle heims. http://www.mooreparts.com/store/prod...3/CHASSIS-202/

You can find them cheaper.

If you are building your own spindles, I'd run verticle uniballs. How heavy is your car going to be? The two people i have seen with a-arm bugs run 3/4" and 7/8" heims and never have an issue. is there a reason you wanted to use such a large uniball?

Well I'm not sure on how much it's going to weigh but the1" was the only kit I could find and my dad has 1" heims on his buggy and they didn't look too big and I was told that that uniballs are stronger than heims

And it's also going to be my daily driver so that's why I wanted to mount the uniballs horizontally but if I do them vertically would I still get a decent turning radius

SEAT BELT MOUNTING BOLTS?
Do I want grade 8 or something like grade 5?
Is bend not break the idea?

Thanx in advance.