Thread: The questions thread

alright im not to sure if this question has been asked before or not, i didnt want to look through all 21 pages this late.

how much tubing will i need to cage my bug, thats going from front beam to rear torsion housing.?

im thinking of extending the front end 2in out, what is everyone else set up at? and whats your input on the 2in stretch?

what's typically cylinder head temperature in a vw motor? 1915cc if that matters.

What spring rate are you guys running in the front I have stock pan but cut off at the firewall and all tube out to the beam what would be a good starting point

Originally Posted by THORrider05

alright im not to sure if this question has been asked before or not, i didnt want to look through all 21 pages this late.

how much tubing will i need to cage my bug, thats going from front beam to rear torsion housing.?

im thinking of extending the front end 2in out, what is everyone else set up at? and whats your input on the 2in stretch?

I've used three 18' sticks of 1.5" just for the cab and some front, look at my build. From the front to rear, I have just the two outers but Im going to run two more inners. When I was beam, I was going to stretch mine 6" from stock. My brother's 5 unltd is stretch 7" I think.

---------- Post added at 05:12 AM ---------- Previous post was at 05:11 AM ----------

Originally Posted by JWHracing

what's typically cylinder head temperature in a vw motor? 1915cc if that matters.

Typically, I was told don't ever look at it. I know its scary high.

[QUOTE=MQUnlimited;2901224]I've used three 18' sticks of 1.5" just for the cab and some front, look at my build. From the front to rear, I have just the two outers but Im going to run two more inners. When I was beam, I was going to stretch mine 6" from stock. My brother's 5 unltd is stretch 7" I think.[COLOR="Silver"]


thanx, i think if i can get a good deal on 5sticks again then i'll do that and have extra.

i plan on getting 3x3s in the rear and then gettin 2+ front arms, i have heard of people stretching the front out 6", my car isnt going to be setup very high so thats why im thinking of just extending it 2" that way i dont get high centered alot (will mainly be going out with jeeps). anyone else have any input on what to extend the front to?

Bump

lookin at geting a torshion adjuster.any recomendations on ehat to get i have a 1960 king pin front end.thanks

ow and do i onley need two.

You only need two if you are running a stock lenght beam. If you go with a wider beam you need to get an extra set of torsions, cut them to lenght and run 4 adjusters.

Mike

Anyone have a IRS jig/fixture I can borrow...rent?

thanks man.yah i think i have to run a stock lenght beam.eventually the car will b 5/1600

Originally Posted by dirty

thanks man.yah i think i have to run a stock lenght beam.eventually the car will b 5/1600

Then get the SAW King Kong adjusters. Those things take a beating!

Actually I might still have mine if you are interested, PM me I'll sell them for half of what I got them for from Kartek. never used.

Mike

Oh yeah I have the rear adjuster too. Same thing on the price I just need to dig it out.

Let me know!

Mike

Originally Posted by DEEZS

What spring rate are you guys running in the front I have stock pan but cut off at the firewall and all tube out to the beam what would be a good starting point

hey just saw your car yesterday ...i would go a little heavy er on the springs .i think mine were 200/350 or 250/350 i'll take a look and let you know ...car is looking good though !

i have woods dual shock 4+ over front arms , but they are set up for the smaller pins, an rite now i have the larger link pins, my question is i have a mill at home can i just ream them out.

Originally Posted by l2r 450

i have woods dual shock 4+ over front arms , but they are set up for the smaller pins, an rite now i have the larger link pins, my question is i have a mill at home can i just ream them out.

you should be able to just get the thinner bushing and run them i dont think you need to ream them out .I could be wrong though so check on it .

Thanks ray

Its not a Buggy but i have a question.
Camburg 5.5, im confused.
pretty sure the spring is seated correctly too

This is the buggy thread dude, truck shit goes in the "Truck Talk" section.

Mike

Originally Posted by only1mikey

This is the buggy thread dude, truck shit goes in the "Truck Talk" section.

Mike

I searched "the questions thread" because i knew there was one, posted my question then noticed it was in the buggies section. There is no way to get around it now..

Post it in the RIGHT section so people who know about trucks can actually help you.

With that said the coil isn't seated all the way, there are a bitch to seat.

Mike

In laws manx had the shock rip off the rear arm which seems to be built out of very thin plate. So I was thinking hey lets upgrade. He has 3x3 on it now. What is needed to move up to something bigger and better? Can we just put on some longer arms or will we have to move the motor and trans mounts back? He has WAY to much travel in the front and the back seems a little lacking.

Broke:


Front (Obviously less travel with the shocks on):

The cheap 3x3's are just that....cheap. And is that a center mount rack on the front? How is the bumpsteer?

That front travel will never happen unless the shocks are mounted on the moon. You don't need you're tires bumping 6 inches above the pan unless you are driving a bulldozer. And unless there is a heavy as fuck v8 in the back that type of bump stop will not work, or you like pogo sticks.


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Originally Posted by WannaB-Class5

The cheap 3x3's are just that....cheap. And is that a center mount rack on the front? How is the bumpsteer?

We did not buy or put on these 3x3's they came on the vehicle. So you are saying just go with better 3x3's instead of bigger/longer arms?

The rack...Not sure. What is the difference between a center mount rack and whatever others are available? The bump steer is not bad at all. There is a fabricated piece that goes on that puts the tierods/heims out at the same distance as the arm mounts. Did that make sense? The last owner/builder made it. No issues so far in the 3 years of fixing/improving/beating on it. I knew when he bought the vehicle the rack was not correct but it keeps working and I am not sure what is needed to fix it. I figured when he wanted to go to power steering we can tackle it then.

Originally Posted by FrontierFighter

That front travel will never happen unless the shocks are mounted on the moon. You don't need you're tires bumping 6 inches above the pan unless you are driving a bulldozer. And unless there is a heavy as fuck v8 in the back that type of bump stop will not work, or you like pogo sticks.


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I am here: Google Maps

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I know it will not use that much travel with the shocks on it, that is why I said "Obviously less travel with the shocks on". BUT it does have A LOT of travel with the shocks on and the back is still lacking

The back has a Toyota 22r with Radiator fuel cell and tranny. No pogo sticking so far. Are these bumps overkill? Would the standard bumps like these be better or is there something else I should look at???




Thanks for the responses. I am not really a buggy guy

I personally would go with longer arms! No reason not to if you have the cash. You will need new axles as well. If you go too long, you will need to relocate your trasaxle.


If the bump steer doesn't bother you and the rack isn't breaking, rock out! I'm a steering snob and like to have the geometry as damn close to what I consider perfect as I can get it.

As for the bump stops in the rear, you can tune those if they are pogo-ing your rear too much. From the factory they come with too much fluid for a light car.

Originally Posted by WannaB-Class5

I personally would go with longer arms! No reason not to if you have the cash. You will need new axles as well. If you go too long, you will need to relocate your trasaxle.


If the bump steer doesn't bother you and the rack isn't breaking, rock out! I'm a steering snob and like to have the geometry as damn close to what I consider perfect as I can get it.

As for the bump stops in the rear, you can tune those if they are pogo-ing your rear too much. From the factory they come with too much fluid for a light car.

OK thanks for the info.

Alright guys i have a 2 seater sandrail with a 2332 motor in it and 3x3 arms in the rear. i just mounted my 14x2.0 fox coilovers, the guy i bought them off of said the spring rate was 350 over 550 which is way to stiff! does anyone know of a good spring rate to use for my rail? i have no idea how this stuff works!

If you are not carrying a spare on the back, maybe 300 over 400 or something close to that. If you were in San Diego, I would let you borrow them so you could try em.

no spare. thanks thats the part that sucks cause i dont want to keep buying springs until i find what works. but i guess thats really the best way to do it. are there different lengths or will they all work on my 14 inch shock?

i would try 300/350. maybe a 12"/16"

X2 ^^ Make sure you put the 16 on the bottom.

How many of you are using a dry sump/ sucker system on your dual carbs, to prevent cylinder wash through the rough parts of the course?

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For a light ass sand rail, I'd want a really light spring rate. My bug with 3x3s had a main rate of 145 (250/350). My car with right now has 160 main rate and it's a pig (450/250)

I ditched dual carbs the first chance I had!

Originally Posted by WannaB-Class5

For a light ass sand rail, I'd want a really light spring rate. My bug with 3x3s had a main rate of 145 (250/350). My car with right now has 160 main rate and it's a pig (450/250)

I ditched dual carbs the first chance I had!

Pahl Knows suspension BUT....

Dont listen to the part about the dual carbs. he is flat wrong and we will never stop arguing this. With duals Throttle respons is better, your engine will run cooler, and the most important thing is you will have A LOT more power. The key is the carbs need to be in great shape, not worn out, set up and jetted by a professional, with top quality linkage, manifold, and match ported end castings. If all this is done correctly you will be laughing while you blow by all the single carb buggies with comparible engines.
DUALS are better period.

I had an 1835 with dual 44's jetted fat and would smoke pahls 1914 single carb engine. No disrespect pahl but just because you have had bad luck with duals does not mean a single is better. I'm no engine guru and you know this so dont say I knew how to work on them. I set them and forgot them.

Originally Posted by bajablood

Pahl Knows suspension BUT....

Dont listen to the part about the dual carbs. he is flat wrong and we will never stop arguing this. With duals Throttle respons is better, your engine will run cooler, and the most important thing is you will have A LOT more power. The key is the carbs need to be in great shape, not worn out, set up and jetted by a professional, with top quality linkage, manifold, and match ported end castings. If all this is done correctly you will be laughing while you blow by all the single carb buggies with comparible engines.
DUALS are better period.

I had an 1835 with dual 44's jetted fat and would smoke pahls 1914 single carb engine. No disrespect pahl but just because you have had bad luck with duals does not mean a single is better. I'm no engine guru and you know this so dont say I knew how to work on them. I set them and forgot them.

Additnally you make them handle in the rough awesome by using a scavenger system.

Moved to correct section.

Originally Posted by plejdrup

I have a question about the ford 9" rear end. I'm milling out some spacers at work to take the place of my brake drums. I'll be converting to a disc brake setup and I don't want to leave a gap between the flange and retaining plate. So my question is, how thick is the portion of the brake drum that bolts between the flange and retaining plate. A decimal value would be great, thanks!

This is the buggy section dude, they run IRS in this section of the forum.

Ask this question in truck talk

Mike

can you guys point me in the right direction to a good fab shop in the riverside or corona area to help me finish my baja bug it needs brake lines F and R ,power steering lines,water lines and do some wiring to fire up the ecotec

thx
louie

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