Thread: Class UnO

Originally Posted by esbyota

How are you guys running your fuel systems, filter-pump then to a y fitting before the two fuel rails, out of the two into the regulator and back to the return.

Or pump in one rail, line to the next, to the regulator and then out to the return?

hang on ,..i'll go out and look in the garage , i have so many cl 1 z

It's my b-day, I drank a beer and ordered parts. Thinking I am going to just order two new rear Fox shocks. I have two king 2.0x14 coilvoers that need to be rebuilt but I am runnig fox bypasses.

happy birthday man.

What job were you offered at intel? What line of work are you in?

It was for a mechanical contractor working out there, they do most of the work in New mexico and some of it out here. I have a degree in construction engineering.



Got some solid progress for my birthday.

Sick as fuuuccckkkk!!!!!1!

looking good man and happy belated birthday

lookin great dude

Where was the rebound dump valve? C/O?

It was in the coilover, never actually seen that befor. I can't decide if it is cheaper to rebuild the king (pre run body with the larger race resi) or just buy two new Fox Shocks.

It's kinda nice to be rocking all the same brand. Check the lengths first though to make sure it will fit. Either way, ditch the dump valves.

Got to love tax returns, I will be picking up coil-overs for the rear today and some mis an-fittings I need, ordered Karteks in-line gear oil filter, and will stop by smitty's to discuss having him re-wire the car.

Originally Posted by partybarge_pilot

Either way, ditch the dump valves.

x2. they don't always close fast enough when the shaft changes direction really fast.

Where is a good place to get a 90 degree fitting for a 2.0 fox resi? Right now it comes with a straight fitting out the top cap. Hoping somewhere stocks it possibly?

Check the Yellow pages for a Parker hydraulic store. There's bound to be one near you. Pretty sure Fox 2.0s us an NPT thread on the older ones and an SAE O-ring on the newer ones, you'll need a swivel either way, should be about $7.

If you can't find a hydraulic shop near by, then find your local industrial supply, they should have them in stock also.

Theres a parker store on 43rd ave and van buren.

Got it, 10 bucks at the hose store.

New valve covers with coil pack mounts, coilovers with 90 degree fittings, power steering pump. SOON!


Chevy I have been working on. Built the front end, deavers and a 9 inch:

Mas

Never really ran coolers before on my toyota so I am now questioning myself on how to plumb the coolers to effectivly use them and think I have them either incorrectly plumbed or mounted. Any ideas?

The first cooler is fine, would be better if you rotated it 90* (not a huge deal if you don't) and had the inlet in the bottom fitting, and the outlet on the top. That middle one needs to plumbed with the inlet on the bottom and the outlet on the top, and they need to be on opposite sides of the cooler, you can only plumb it like you have it if it's setup to be a dual pass cooler. And the third pic looks like another pic of the first one..


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Originally Posted by esbyota

Never really ran coolers before on my toyota so I am now questioning myself on how to plumb the coolers to effectivly use them and think I have them either incorrectly plumbed or mounted. Any ideas?

Its all wrong, get your shit together man!!!

Which way are they fans moving the air? Is there going to be paneling around them? How much of the rear around the radiator is paneled in?

If the whole rear is paneled in around the radiators your going to have a pretty large positive pressure bubble in front of it. If your fans are pulling air into the car in front of the radiator you may have flow problems at speed. Having them push the air to the outside of the cab would work better and also help keep them cleaner...........

Originally Posted by letsgetthisdone

they need to be on opposite sides of the cooler, you can only plumb it like you have it if it's setup to be a dual pass cooler.

This..... And they should really be diagonally across from each other.

Originally Posted by partybarge_pilot

Which way are they fans moving the air? Is there going to be paneling around them? How much of the rear around the radiator is paneled in?

If the whole rear is paneled in around the radiators your going to have a pretty large positive pressure bubble in front of it. If your fans are pulling air into the car in front of the radiator you may have flow problems at speed. Having them push the air to the outside of the cab would work better and also help keep them cleaner...........

They are pulling air in a panel on the side that has a vent in it. The back of the car is open pretty much back until the motor/trans compartment.

Idk if you're still looking for work but pistol pete is looking for a good tig welder on FB.


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I am here: http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=32.567097,-92.927934
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When you get ready to run it, tie some string onto the fan grills and have someone watch them at speed........

Should have the chevy finished up so I can get working on my car



Started messing with the wiring and figured it was alot easier to just pull it out and start sorting from here. Anyone have exerpience with racepak gauges?

How are you guys routing your serp belts? I think how I have it laying on there is wrong. Also what tensioner are more running??

i would try to do it like this if you can, it gets more belt on the power steering and crank pulley...

Your sick paint skills inspired me lol.

Where my pullies are at now with the UNI aluminum brackets that came with the car:


What I am thinking because the throttle body is right above the water pump and then the water outlet is just to the left:


Just wondering if this was enough wrap around the Alt.

that would work.

I still like mine better because the belt goes 180* around the crank pulley, lots of grip. and you dont need that idler, one less thing to fail. the way you have it, it's only going to go about 120* around the crank. how much that matters, i don't know. but i know most cars straight from ford, chevy, toyota, etc with a single belt serpentine setup get about 180* around the crank pulley.

cant see it very well but it is like your pic

[QUOTE=esbyota;2938833]Your sick paint skills inspired me lol.


What I am thinking because the throttle body is right above the water pump and then the water outlet is just to the left:


This one

Perfect, got a belt tonight for that size. going to exchange it for one size smaller tomorrow and I should be golden.

I have two sets of axles, one 33 splined and one 35 splined. I have two cvs that are 33 splined.

I am going to purchase cv's this week. Is it worth buying 4 new cvs that are 35 splined or just get two 33 splined cvs and run them?

the 33 spline axles will get shit out of the car with a quickness. sell the the 33 spline stuff to recoup the costs of getting the 35 spline parts...


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What diameter are the axles. If the 35's are bigger your ring gear will hate you. Personally, I would like the CV to go before the R&P...........

The 33 and 35 axles are the same diameter

Shifter and shaft mounted, Coolers re-plumbed, tie rod mounts finished up, and steering columns finished up: