i am doing a full tube chassi build and one thing i did not take into account is all the drop down brackets for the front they still need ground clearance too
i am doing a full tube chassi build and one thing i did not take into account is all the drop down brackets for the front they still need ground clearance too
A little update that has taken me 3 days after school. im going deaf from the 9" grinder.
well got one side 90% finished, just need to cut some internal gussets to fit. its all out of 1/4" (may be overkill, but its supporting the beams, so we think it will be okay?) i plan to plate the rest of the front frame with thinner stuff too. just need to clean it of 200,000 miles of road grime.
also added triangulation to bedside mounts, and another bent piece for more 'flop' support.
the different colors represent the gussets, i will cut a space on the outer plate so that it will also be welded to the gussets.
driver side ^^^
passenger side (using a torch instead of grinder and sawsall)^^^
ride height^^^
should i add anything to the rear mounts?
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Something my friend showed me that really helped when I did my most recent version of beams on my truck was to take some angle iron and tack it to the factory frame rails in the front, that way you make sure that everything you are modifying or mounting is square with the rest of the truck.
hahaha shit i guess 32 is the right age to grow up huh fucker... lol
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Giant Motorsports
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looks good man. i like it.
trophy ranger in the works
well i cut the bad part of the rear cab cage X out, then got cut up by the 9" angle grinder.
finally got the plates back from machine shop for the driver side frame. (1st &2nd pic)
just from adding the one side of plating, the frame is ten times stronger then when everything was cut off.
now my question: i cut off the bottom half of the engine cross member, and was going to plate it back up, but is that really needed once i do the engine cage? getting the plates cut is no problem, just would rather not seeing how much stronger the frame is. (first picture shows what im talking about)
passenger side is in progress, just need internal gussets
thanks
Mike
yesssss dude. cut the two sides evenly and plate the section with some 1/8" i mean if your down there already and it doesnt cost you anything other than your own time, plate that shit it. you removed material from a stock frame that aint the strongest, so plate in whatever you cut and make it stronger in anyway that you can. if its no big deal to cut the plate like you said, then plate that back in. just my opinion tho. others may say it aint necessary to each their own.
Bbr is no longer doing any more fab work
Hell yes well all have! But you and I both had to learn somewhere. The truck is obvisouly not finished so if learning about dead tubes before he is entirly finished with the cab and engine cage is probably a good idea you growchy old man!
I would probably plate a little more then that on the frame. You have beam hangers as well as swingers that you are mounting up there.
Last edited by esbyota; 03-18-2010 at 08:41 AM.
-Brad
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got one beam partially tacked together and mounted.
finished the passenger side plating too, just no pics of that.
only problem on the beam, the plates dont fit just right and are a little long, so i will trim them a little.
looks good
"Krazy Tweekin' Kustums"
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thread that heim in to when you have the jam nut on there it shows bout a 1/8 to 1/4'' of threads
Brian Baker
GIANT MOTORSPORTS
if you look close, you can see that the bung is not completely in side the tube as it is not welded in yet. it is sticking out about 1/4 inch.
before i completely weld the beams and brackets, what size bolt is best to run? i have a 5/8 currently, but i also have some 3/4 bolts i can use. is 5/8 enough?
are there any pictures of threats tube beams completely welded, id like a top and bottom view if possible, to show the little triangle piece that goes behind the tubes at the beam end.
thanks
i would not pivot a beam on a 5/8" bolt. run 3/4".
my brother has threats kit but it is the boxed race style. post pics man,we can help.
your heim spacers (if bought from threat) are 3/4'' bolts.
Brian Baker
GIANT MOTORSPORTS
okay thanks guys, ill get pics tomorrow.
i was using 5/8 because i had those laying around with spacers, i have some 3/4 too but they are narrower, ill get some made next week.
Ranger is gone.
But I got a Silverado for a new project.
well i will get some spacers from kartek for the radious and beams on monday.
i did weld the beams today, the first one, i put the plates on the wrong side but it wasnt a big deal, still worked fine. they were really simple to put together, only 2 tubes, 5 plates, beam end, and bung. i think i did pretty good for my first time?
radious arms will be tomorrow.
the arms
i added the 1" tubes since there was no plating.
waiting for a reply from Dave on the arm to beam mounts.
finally got the X redone, and also added an A in the middle of the cab behind the seats. i also put some tape up, should i run tubes where the tape is? the two behind each seat will have to have a little bend in them?
thats a shit tone of bars
"Krazy Tweekin' Kustums"
shit for sale check out my profile
2008 chevy silverado 4 sale $25,500 obo
Fuck it reminds me of a jungle gym from the playground..lol
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Co Dawg 1408
Why so many bars?
Because I have seen videos of trucks crashing at high speeds and I don't want my cage to collapse if that happens to me.
I've seen the cliffs in baja...(what more do I need to say?)
Time to get to work.
well it just gets heavy but safty first right
"Krazy Tweekin' Kustums"
shit for sale check out my profile
2008 chevy silverado 4 sale $25,500 obo
That's not an extended cab. Being an extended cab I wanted to make sure the center wouldn't collapse, hense the A.Originally Posted by jodaddy23
310-
I never planned to put a third seat in so there would never have been room for one. I put the seats back to far.
you could have done it with just 1 tube from the bottom of the rear window in the center, to the center of the roof tubes. You would have been protected just as well with 1 tube.
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X2!!! those tubes are just wasted space, they would really serve no purpose structurally. start by cutting those center tubes out. you need to add roof cross tubes to hit B pillar...you have that crazy X goin on for roof tubes, but you have no support for side impact in the center between A and C pillar which is a weak point in a rollover. add those and maybe do what jonerton said about doing diags from center of X to outside B pillar roof tubes.
Last edited by cam9; 03-26-2010 at 06:59 PM.
if hes the same guy from race-dezert hes getting a hard time because hes doing this all with his parents money.
He wrecked the truck his parents bought for him, then "finally convinced his dad to let him build it" now hes building it, and looks to me that he just started welding shit together and then taking other peoples advice and trying to fix it, i'm real far from an expert, and yes everyone started somewhere. But the people who actually live to offroad and work every day thinking about how many more hours they have to work to afford the bender or another stick of tubing are the ones who should get the most respect, not the people welding shit together to make a "sick" truck.
Who cares? And when did anyone start talking about respect? It's not your business where the money is coming from, if his parents feel like supporting the project then good for him. No one deserves any less respect because they don't pay for something themselves. Yes he took on a huge project for his first one, but give the guy a break, he's trying to learn.
You talk alot of crap. Like the others said it doesn't matter where the money comes from. I would try to pay for this myself but I don't have a job because I know it would fuck with my school work. Once I start college at UTI I will get a job and begin to make my hardbodyOriginally Posted by Roccomonte
DD into something respectible to play with.
I spend every minute I have on this truck. If I'm not working on it I'm thinking of what I need to do next, such as the engine cage.
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