Thread: my 98 chevy race build

Originally Posted by glamiskid395

why do i need to lean them in more? what will i gain? (trying to learn)

its the elusive 90* at full bump theory that almost everyone is after. Basically for fine tuning the shocks. There are tons of threads on it with people on both sides of the argument.

rule of thumb, 90* at bump. Not to sure if the way you have it will make a difference. The only thing i would have done different is put the bypass out front because the further out on the arm, the more responsive it can be.

Prerunnin beat me to it, and also, rack with cross over would be pretty difficult not to mention waste of money. get some swingers from threat and make custom steering, you will be in it for close to 600 with the box. Thats not to shabby

Build looks sweet! A lot better than a lot of the internet fabbers on here can build. The only "constructive criticism" i can add is that you should have built some positive caster into your radius arms to aid in the truck tracking straight and returning to center. Keep up the good work.

if i move the coilover to the back i cant lean the shocks in, so i think im going to leave the upper mounts alone and switch the shocks.
the guy that did my engine (B&K) is offering to do the steering too, using a nascar rack and pinion. to me it doesnt seem like it would be that hard to use a rack..

heres how i think it could work?

Um do not let him do that. Lol

Originally Posted by matt_helton

Um do not let him do that. Lol

why? whats so bad about the rack and pinion.

oh man, you just gotta trust me here son.

Originally Posted by matt_helton

oh man, you just gotta trust me here son.

alright so i trust ya, now tell me whats wrong with it? lol

Originally Posted by matt_helton

oh man, you just gotta trust me here son.

x2!!!

You said it yourself, Nascar rack. Dont do it. THe problem is racks arnt made for the abuse a box can handle unless you like spending 1000$ a rack. Do youself a favor and get a ford box from Howe with ram assist, the only problems you might have with that setup is how to mount it.

Neckcar rack will explode in short order.

I would also try to avoid using one long bolt for the upper shock mounts. Long bolts stretch way more than short ones and it's hard to keep proper tension on them. Also, if you have any problems with that long bolt it's going to be a royal mother fucker to remove.

As for the shock angle, going over 90 at bump will make it harder to tune as the geometry as built will make it harsher in the mid stroke and easier to bottom. Not a good combo. You can tune around it, but it doesn't make your life any easier. A little extra work now will pay off big later on..........

Originally Posted by partybarge_pilot

Neckcar rack will explode in short order.

I would also try to avoid using one long bolt for the upper shock mounts. Long bolts stretch way more than short ones and it's hard to keep proper tension on them. Also, if you have any problems with that long bolt it's going to be a royal mother fucker to remove.

As for the shock angle, going over 90 at bump will make it harder to tune as the geometry as built will make it harsher in the mid stroke and easier to bottom. Not a good combo. You can tune around it, but it doesn't make your life any easier. A little extra work now will pay off big later on..........

there are two bolts in there. they go in opposed to each other, I didn't notice it at first either

People with way more experience than you have tried to make a crossover rack setup work, and ultimately failed. This is your first project, don't try something like that, go tried and true and come up with exotic ideas for your next build.

Okay quick question I have to put the coilover in back on the passenger side, aside from asthetics what will this cause problems with? Do I need to just mount the coil on the rad arm on both sides so that it will clear the beam mounts? Thanks. Need an answer quick.

And yes two bolts are being used, the middle boss is going to be threaded. All bolts on suspension are F-911.

Originally Posted by glamiskid395

And yes two bolts are being used, the middle boss is going to be threaded. All bolts on suspension are F-911.

Blind bolts also cause their own set of headaches and should be avoided.

If your mounting your C/O's to the radius arm, plate that thing to the beam when you get everything lined up. The 2 mounting tabs will flex and break eventually.

did u not pay attention to what others were saying? bypass out front more will give u more control so if ur gonna have a bypass in the back on the driver side and a bypass up front on the pass side what do u think its gonna do? probably act different cuz its further back... keep it all the same

I redid it so the coil mounts on the rad arms. I will plate in the rad arms also.

u dedicate all of ur time to this build huh? seems like u work non stop on it

Originally Posted by glamiskid395

if i move the coilover to the back i cant lean the shocks in, so i think im going to leave the upper mounts alone and switch the shocks.
the guy that did my engine (B&K) is offering to do the steering too, using a nascar rack and pinion. to me it doesnt seem like it would be that hard to use a rack..

heres how i think it could work?

The rack travels in a straight line, the swingers travel in an arc. It could work if you used short links connecting the swingers to the rack, but that's a whole different ball game with angles/ratios. More moving parts=more to break/fail.
Keep it simple.

i posted above but you might have missed it? did u get both rad arms finished? howd the caster angle come out?

Originally Posted by fleshwound

u dedicate all of ur time to this build huh? seems like u work non stop on it

I've been on spring break these last two weeks so yes I have.

Well I'm going to wait for Dave to have him help me mount the shocks, I'm just not sure what I'm doing wrong.

Both shocks are 16" but when cycled, the coilover only travels 14". So I should have got a 18" B/P right?giant told me 16's because he was going to do the front before I decided to do it.
I can post pics if needed.

u can make those shocks work u might just have to mount the tops differently and it might be more difficult but thats the name of the game

Originally Posted by DirtFiend602

i posted above but you might have missed it? did u get both rad arms finished? howd the caster angle come out?

I haven't measure the caster angle.
Not sure how to. I have the 2 piece caster/camber adjusters.

only reason i ask was one of your pics, the knuckle looked way in the negative, photos distort everything though... you could do something as simple as finding true zero with a plumb bob and a digital angle finder. btw awesome build, it seems like you update everyday!

Originally Posted by DirtFiend602

only reason i ask was one of your pics, the knuckle looked way in the negative, photos distort everythign though... you could do something as simple as finding true zero with a plumb bob and a digital angle finder. btw awesome build, it seems like you update everyday!

Do I do this at ride height?

I try to because I always have questions.

haha i wish i had 1/4 of this time you dedicate to this.... you said Dave is going to help you with the shocks? ask him hes the beam king lol. and im not 100% sure, you could cycle them and just check it both ways, at ride height and at 90.. its mainly going to affect steering ackerman and departures out of corners, ruts, etc

I measure my caster and camber angles with a magnetic base angle finder.

I have 14" stroke shocks and not as much room to work with as you do and I get 18"

I think I just realized my problem, the fox body is 1.5" shorter than the king bp body. Are the king coils the save body size as fox coils?
The fox body is 23.5" from bottom of body to center of eye.

I bet shock dimensions are on either companies sites.

got the mounts all figured out. the bypass compresses and extends the full 16". the coilover extends 16" but only compresses 14.25"..
the upper mounts and lower C/O mounts were done with a band saw, hole saw, and grinder. been working on it for 6 hours...

i dont have pics and full bump because i was too lazy to lift it back up.
oh and 23 1/4" of travel will strapp at 22"

Much better.

thanks
is this a good idea for tube placement?

The down tube next to the cab, I would move the bottom of it as far back as possible.

You putting the radiator in the rear?

I will do that. The radiator will stay up front. Electric fans If the stocker doesn't fit.

Hmmmm, doesn't look like you left yourself a lot of room for the radiator width wise.

Well the stock radiator will not work, if we can't find a 4 core one that will fit, we will put it in the back.

def looks alot better man. when you take your time and think everything out, te work turns out better than rushing through. and for your first build, the work is is lookin pretty good man. i bet your stoked

Originally Posted by glamiskid395

Well the stock radiator will not work, if we can't find a 4 core one that will fit, we will put it in the back.

4 core to thick unless your going 140MPH LOL.......

In the back it goes........