Thread: my 98 chevy race build

i was curious about that also. was gonna ask about your pump specs, your filters, anything clogged with you filters, have you fed with your regulator? do you have the right one? lots of things to look at. also if you had the computer messed with your injectors could be messed with

the pumps are in-tank, and are 70psi, when the truck is idle the pressure is at 60psi, and stays at that even when the engine cuts out of 1500rpm.
Monday i spent all day at my local auto shop (Halls in moreno valley) they checked all the connections making sure they got the required voltage.
at first we thought the TPS (throttle position sensor was bad) we switched it, and still the same problem, next we changed out MAFS with no luck. the wiring harness does not had a usable OBD2 connector, but a connector that my engine guy put on when he did the wiring, so we put on a OBD2 connector but to no avail...
it does not cut out according to the throttle position, because when pulling on the trailer in 3rd, i had it past half throttle and it didnt cut out, so thats how we figured out its not the TPS.

Friday, we are taking it back up to apple valley to see if the guy who did the wiring can figure out whats wrong. i just hope we dont have to send the computer back to the hillbillies in texas, they LAG on it.

other than that, everything is working out good.

updates?

Video in general offroad talk

today i planned to work on the skid plates and bumpstops but wasnt able too.
all i did was take the coilovers off for revalving, and to find bump stop location.
lots of tire tuck


how do you like my bearing cover?


new rear bumpstop location


heres how i think i will put a sway bar on.
black= torsion bar
red= sway bar arms
blue= tie rob

what do you think?

Nope sway bar is too skinny, can barely see it...lol. It looks like the parallel links will be only like 6 inches long. Is this correct?

Originally Posted by HBCHEVY

Nope sway bar is too skinny, can barely see it...lol. It looks like the parallel links will be only like 6 inches long. Is this correct?

That was just a rough idea/sketch. I will know forsure on Saturday when we take it to blitzkrieg so they can take measurements and what not.

Whats wrong with the current bump stop location?

I'm still waiting for pictures of the steering.

I dont belive he had rear bumps before?

Technically I did have them before. But during the build, they got collapse because I didn't brace stuff right. So I put 1/2" sleeve inside it to strengthen it. I just have not got around to putting the new cans on. I'm getting the plates cut tomorrow to mount them. When I put air bumps on the front, I'll have to notch the frame for them to fit.

Could also run the sway bar from under the spares, where it runs under the fuel cell.

Pictures of the steering?

if u run your bumps off the truss say good buy to your housing n your upper links

Originally Posted by fordf-125

if u run your bumps off the truss say good buy to your housing n your upper links

How bad is it really? I understand why it would ruin the links but why the housing?

man looking at that full bump shot makes me cringe! i cant wait to see the damage u get underneath there

Just hone out the bump cans with a drill hone. When you bump off of the truss it puts a huge rotational force on the housing and on the hiems. Plus the truss is prob .120 thick while the housing is prob .250.

bump directly on the axle tube as far out as possible. your 'new' mounts are too far inboard and will kill the truss and link mounts very quickly.

i would consider adding a few tubes at the bumpstop to add some structure to that bedcage. that is a lot of weight hanging out there with the structure you have in place.

Good Luck.

Fleshwound- give me a couple days.

Guys, is there pictures out there of guys using the stock mounting style rad arms and welding them to the beam? My c/o is bending the plates even with gussets.

Thanks.

like a j beam? basically. man! that thing gets low in that pik! is it safe to bump it that low?

yes like a j beam, just thought that someone might have had a pic.

the damage from going that low is the tires rub the fenders, and also the rear frame rails drag at full bump. just wait a couple days for an update...

you ask dave about turning your set up into j beam yet?

Good job so far man.

look CLOSE...(the limit straps are way too short some how)...

decided to just primer the cage..

Originally Posted by glamiskid395

look CLOSE...(the limit straps are way too short some how)...

decided to just primer the cage..

Now that you have "shifted" things down you will need to relocate the straps or get longer ones...

Originally Posted by Threat Motorsports

Now that you have "shifted" things down you will need to relocate the straps or get longer ones...

just trying to point out the new shock mounts because i know how a lot of people did not like the other ones with all the so called "dead" tubes. i just have to move the limit mounts down to the fuel cell cross member.

Originally Posted by glamiskid395

just trying to point out the new shock mounts because i know how a lot of people did not like the other ones with all the so called "dead" tubes. i just have to move the limit mounts down to the fuel cell cross member.

Show a picture from the side. I've been looking for ideas...

3rd times the charm..hopefully!

is there anything to strengthen that laterally?
looks clean tho
i wish i had access to a break.. haha

Originally Posted by RCMracer74

is there anything to strengthen that laterally?
looks clean tho
i wish i had access to a break.. haha

Yes I have plates to go inside, I'll try to have them all welded tomorrow. Today I built a new driver side beam.

i never made it over to my garage today mike. sry man i think i might be able to be over there in the next couple days ive been super busy

no not internal, thats important too, but i meant something to build perpendicular to it, maybe to the tube behind looks convenient

Originally Posted by RCMracer74

no not internal, thats important too, but i meant something to build perpendicular to it, maybe to the tube behind looks convenient

there is a tube that runs down the front side about half way from the old mounts, i kept it because the tranny coolers are mounted to it.
you can see here.


with the shocks bolted in, i took a pry bar and couldnt budge the mounts, but i will be doing something more for side to side movement.

beefed up the rad arms, the coilover bent the 3/16" plates. now 5/16 top and bottom, 1/4" moon and 1/4" shock tabs

after 200-250 miles of testing this weekend, i found a few more problems.
but the things i fixed and changed held up great!
the rear mounts are holding up great, and seem to be in the perfect position now.
the driver side beam is alot better than before. and the new rad arm mounts did not bend at all.
damage, pitman arm got twisted after driving into a rain washout in front of the hotel and getting pitched sideways, then getting stuck in the silt.

up coming---double sheer tie rod mounts on spindles, and pitman arm.

other than those problems, there was nothing wrong with the truck, i drove the first 150, and my sister drove the next 100 miles to get ready for the Powder Puff. it seemed to take the course very well, through the hills, washes, sand, rocks, rollers, woops, etc. Shocks need more valving still, the rear rebound is almost all the way in and it still hangs up through the woops.

-Mike

pics maybe vid of testing?

i didnt have time last week to post a video, but heres all i got, the last couple are of a rock crawler that was doing testing for the powderpuff.

thanks to Hector (310kid) and his pit crew for giving me some PS fluid this weekend!

i will be out testing next sunday (september 19)

Originally Posted by glamiskid395

after 200-250 miles of testing this weekend, i found a few more problems.
but the things i fixed and changed held up great!
the rear mounts are holding up great, and seem to be in the perfect position now.
the driver side beam is alot better than before. and the new rad arm mounts did not bend at all.
damage, pitman arm got twisted after driving into a rain washout in front of the hotel and getting pitched sideways, then getting stuck in the silt.

up coming---double sheer tie rod mounts on spindles, and pitman arm.

other than those problems, there was nothing wrong with the truck, i drove the first 150, and my sister drove the next 100 miles to get ready for the Powder Puff. it seemed to take the course very well, through the hills, washes, sand, rocks, rollers, woops, etc. Shocks need more valving still, the rear rebound is almost all the way in and it still hangs up through the woops.

-Mike

The hotel out in barstow, right before you get to del taco? I let a friend drive my truck and we ended up in that huge concrete drainage ditch with a fried ignition lol.

Truck looks good though man dig the beams!

yes that same one, in the silt! took about 30 minutes to get out.

double sheered spindle, done with a stick welder. 5/8 bolt. steers alot easier now that there are hi-mis spacers.



bent the driver side steering swinger at the last test, so i had some 5/16" and 1/4" plates cut to size. shouldnt bend now.


this should also help me steer easier! SWEET:]

what are these?

my number for MORE, did not think of the '420' part of it when i picked it, just happened..

nice man

i've been getting the truck ready for the powderpuff, painting stuff, and what not so that its race ready. i will post up pics as soon as its done.
and i should be picking up a chase truck next week, pics soon.

The RACE.
2nd place. 2 flats, bent both beadlocks. 5 laps. 5th lap, had a fuel delivery problem with the pumps inside tank, i think the wires inside were shorting out, once filled with gas, the pumps were working again. i should be going to Holley pumps for the next race, no more submerged pump crap! no other problems!