Thread: East Coast Prerunner Build

^^^x2. My dad helped me with mine cause he knows all the tricks, but it still took two of us with no power bleeder.
First if you removed the master cylinder you can bleed it off the truck, then put in on and hook everything up.
Then fill up the reservoir and pump the brakes a few times and your suppose to start at the rear right tire(furthest away from the reservoir.) However if you didn't pull off your rear brake lines then you should just get the majority of the air out of the front lines.
When you bleed the brakes you just have someone hold the brake pedal down while you open the bleeder on the caliper until it the line looses the pressure(once the pedal hits the floor) then close the bleeder valve, pump the brakes and repeat. And you will have to do this with each caliper until no bubbles are come out of the line when you bleed it. One little thing I did that helped was get the majority out of it, let it sit over night with the cap off the reservoir, then bleed it again the next day because a lot of the bubbles will rise and then you won't have to bleed them out.
It's a little time consuming without a bleeder haha.

hmm i think i might just get the alignment shop to do it. probably wont cost much more than buying the bleeder and i dont see me having to do it very often.

you dont need a power bleeder.
Normal Bleeding
1
Open the front bleeder screw on the modulator. There are two screws, open the one at the front. Bleed the brakes by having another person gradually press on the brake pedal until all air is purged and clean fluid flows. Attaching a clear tube to the bleeder valve and placing the other end in a container of fluid helps.
2
Bleed the individual brakes, beginning with the brake farthest from the master cylinder. This is often the right front brake. Bleed the brake on the opposite end next (the left front if you started with the right front).
3
Test the brake pedal after all the brakes are bled. Once you are certain of a firm pedal, drive the vehicle at more than three miles per hour so the controller can automatically reset the system. Stop the vehicle afterward and bleed the rear brakes.
Scan Tool
1
Attach a pressure bleeder to the master cylinder reservoir and turn the ignition key to the On position. Pressurize the system to 35 pounds per square inch with the bleeder screws closed.
2
Connect the scan tool and set it to "Automatic Bleed Procedure." Wait one minute for the tool to energize and cycle the ABS solenoids.
3
Bleed each wheel as the scan tool instructs you to. The pump will run and the release valve on each wheel will cycle for one minute. Afterward, the scan tool purges any extra air with one last 20 second cycling of the solenoids.
4
Relieve the pressure at the bleeder connected to the master cylinder and then remove it from the cylinder. Test the pedal's height and feel it to make sure t

good luck, sick build. hope this helped

You guys make this way more complicated then it is. Its just bleeding brakes, you dont need all these fancy tools. The only tools I used was a c-clamp, the wrench to loosen the bleeder valve and my foot on the peddle.

Who uses brakes anymore? Just cut a hole in the floor and use your feet. Flinestone status

Who needs stopping power period? it only slows you down...

Sick Truck man! nice to see someone not from the west coast build a truck

Originally Posted by relentlessmotorsport

well i never get under it without stands and yeah my jack doesnt go high enough.

Thats always a good thing. lol you know your a baller when you have to buy a specal jack to get your truck off the ground

hey man.. good luck with your build... you def. picked the nicest chevy production kit, take your time do it right and you will be pulling more ladies then the lifted guys on the east coast lol

its all about the beaches hahaha

i got the longtubes on today and bought a trans temp gauge. started the truck up without cats or a muffler.... she was louuuuuddddddddd

Need video!

i might take one tommorrow. definately cant start it up at night with the neighbors.... they deal with enough as it is hahah

got the trans temp gauge in.


on the way to get re geared... i did get the brakes done as well so i was able to stop hahah




upskirt!!

dads truck on new shoes....


naughty in a bmw

I'm from the midwest, I'm struggling with the shipping charges on getting fenders shipped to me. Where did you get your fenders from?

west coast. i think i paid like 150 for my front fenders shipped and like 2oo for the rear

Why didn't you just get a new cluster with the trans temp gauge in it?
And 31mpg's in the bmw at 100+???? haha

X2^^^^^ the gauge placement is hidieous, they make a single gauge pod that goes over the steering column

i wish i had a diesel to pull my 1500, FML

you cant be serious with that trans temp gauge, truck looks sooo clean. spent so much time making it look bomb and it looks like some meth head installed that guage just get a gauge pod on you a pillar and you dont have to look down to check it. at midnight doing 130mph and getting 31.9 mpg fuck a hybrid lol

i dont think i was gettingg 31.9 it was more like thats how far i could go hahah...

i dont think it looks that bad...geess haha ..
only reason i didnt go with a pod on the piller is that i couldnt decide whether it would be in the way of the cage or not. and i didnt go with another cluster bc i got the gauge for fifty bucks. Im going more for knowing the temp than what the thing looks like. And once i get a factory center console i will be incorporating the gauge into that.

i thought you were going to make a center console out of metal? different plans?

yeah well i made one that was alright then tred to use bondo to smooth out the transistions in the angles it had. unfortunately i dont know shit about bondoing and completely fuck up the first one i made. I am thinking about building another one but i just havent gotten the desire to hahah.

stilll waiting for gears and locker...

updates are that i returned that tube bender i had and bought a jd32 with 1 3/4 and 2 inch dies that are 6.5:180. so that should do eberything i need. also i should be able to have a built 6 oh in it by the end of june!!!

are they on order or is it taking this long to get the gears installed? I'd be pissed if it took more than a couple days to do a rear diff.

took a week to get them in and another two weeks to install. its a desiel perforance shop and they have been crazy busy so its taken them awhile.

a couple updates.
finally got the 4:88s installed
and got the frame notched.
pics

so gears and differential

empty pumpkin








next on the to do list is shock tower hoops and engine crossover. then bedcage. should be started on the cage by the end of next week, and before i do that im boxing the frame in. and i will be plating according to where the bed cage mounts.

nice update. I'm ready to see the cage build now!

cut the ends of the tubes off where they stick out past the plate on the top, cut at an angle to match up with the plate, then pkate the whole thing and i think it would like a 100000000x better, but anyways it looks sick man and im glad to see some east coast builds

this truck looks great so far. Just a few words of advice. I know this is your first build and all, but take some more time on things and make things a little cleaner. Trust me, from first hand experience, you will be alot happier in the end. For example, re mount that trans gauge properly and make a super clean mount for it and make it clean, Like the post above, cut off the ends of the square tubing on your notch and plate it in. Just simple things like that will make your truck alot cleaner, nicer, and you will be alot happier in the end. Not bashing whatsoever and i have been there and done that with rushing things, and not doing them right the first time. But no matter how long it takes. Even if it takes you a week to make a nice temp gauge mount. In the end, you will be able to sit back and look at how sick it looks and be really happy with your work. Because at the end of the build, you will be wishing you spent more time on things and did them the right time first when your re doing them after the fact. Mark my words. Clean start.

Colin

Like it been said befor "If you dont have the time to do it right the first time, Do you really have the time to do it over?" All in all a sweet build but definitely need a little more fit and finish. Dont let the comments get you down just take your time.

Jesus Christ yes listen to murderedoutdangerrangerman and add some more plating to make it look better.

Did you just do gears or did you add a locker or anything too?

yeah im all about taking my time. The trans temp gauge is temporary in the first place, its just there until i get a center console. the tubes coming out at the end of the notch is how the kit is made... cutting the ends of will make it look better and i will get around to doing that probably when i box the frame. but for now the notch is in so i can put the bumps in and get to calculating how high the rear cage will be. The only reason im in any sort of rush to get the cage started is bc the tubing is beginning to get some surface rust sitting in my drive way.

All critism is welcome if you provide advice, thats why i have a thread.

spray wd-40 on an old sock and start wiping the tube down!

wasnt trying to critize at all. your build is awesome man, i was just trying to give a little advice that would take little time and give great reward. anyways keep up the good work

ive used like two big cans of wd40 on it already and its still got surface rust in places. but im thinking that i might get some motoroil and use it simply bc it would stay on longer i would think.

critizism and advice are both welcome. Like some have said haveing a buddy around to poke at your work as your doing it to keep you from ctting corners is a great thhing, but since i dont have friends around all the time and only one would know what the fuck he was talking about here is where i need to critizism to keep me doing thing right.

a few updates...
well got the truck aligned so i have been driving it. Without a tune its throwing a number of codes. Should order a black bear tune by the end of the week. I got the abs wires and plug cut off so they are out of the way up front, and did some rerouting of the brake lines to keep them clear of danger. The trans temp gauge decided it wanted to start working so thats good. I guess the truck needs to be running for it to work? what temp is a good place for it to be in trafic on a warm day? It hasnt gotten past 170 so im thinking that is decent. Also painted the grill today...

my painting booth

end result


it doesnt match perfect but its temporary until i get ryan (bagged00) to paint the fiberglass and some other things including the grill.

looks good. would look clean with the mesh black

you gotta get those resi's mounted up haha. But I like the grill.

get a billet grill powdercoat that black with a black bowtie!!!!!

^im all about spray paint , and i like the all white look...

Originally Posted by cjs951

Did you just do gears or did you add a locker or anything too?

yeah i got a locker. Figured if i was regearing it made the most sense to get one now instead of later.

Originally Posted by HBFENDERBENDER

looks good. would look clean with the mesh black

yeah i bet it would. I might get to work on that.... i have got to stop getting sidetracked with things like this haha.

Originally Posted by jonmx477

you gotta get those resi's mounted up haha. But I like the grill.

are you saying you dont like my zip ties? I plan on mounting them to the shock tower hoops, but sense i havent fabbed those up yet the zipties are staying hahah.