Thread: Big Blue

in all honesty i wasnt pushing it. ive gone way faster through that section before. thank God nobody got hurt and the damage wasnt bad at all.

well little update. worked on the truck a bit yesterday. cleaned up the old wiring that wasnt being used, cleaned up the wiring in the engine bay, looks wayyyy cleaner now. i also tightened the slop out of my steering, washed it, and cleaned up some old booger welds. i felt a vibration from the passenger front tire, so ive concluded that i need to replace that wheelbearing (theres some play in it). its also having some power issues with the 22re. ive been reading up on it and i think it's the fuel filter or the EGR. the CEL is on, so im gonna check out what code its throwing (anyone remember how to jump the fuse box under the hood to make the CEL blink? for the life of me i cant remember which holes you jump). im still going to do the fuel filter, since im sure it still has the stock one.

here is my to do list, more or less so i can just see what i have left:
-wheel bearings
-upper balljoints (have a set of lowers at home)
-replace heims on steering
-strengthen centerlink/press in new balljoint or throw a uniball on there
-fuel filter/EGR
-cab cage
-move shackle hangers a few inches forward
-bedsides
-paint

OH! and mikey and i are gonna throw a new top tube on the front bumper, and fix my bedcage so the tires sit lower, and shred the gnar on our bmx bikes (i found another flat, btw. must be a thorn in it or something

Bummer about the thorn. Get some money and some metal together and we will talk. Going MTB riding tomorrow AM, if you can get a bike you should come! 8AM.

Mike

yeah its no biggie. ill run to the store and get a tube and clean out the tire. and yeah i def. need money haha. still looking for a new job. thanks for the invite, but i already made plans to either go diving or dirtbiking with my pops tomorrow, and i dont have any access to a mtb hha

Originally Posted by the bodj

well little update. Worked on the truck a bit yesterday. Cleaned up the old wiring that wasnt being used, cleaned up the wiring in the engine bay, looks wayyyy cleaner now. I also tightened the slop out of my steering, washed it, and cleaned up some old booger welds. I felt a vibration from the passenger front tire, so ive concluded that i need to replace that wheelbearing (theres some play in it). Its also having some power issues with the 22re. Ive been reading up on it and i think it's the fuel filter or the egr. The cel is on, so im gonna check out what code its throwing (anyone remember how to jump the fuse box under the hood to make the cel blink? For the life of me i cant remember which holes you jump). Im still going to do the fuel filter, since im sure it still has the stock one.

Here is my to do list, more or less so i can just see what i have left:
-wheel bearings
-upper balljoints (have a set of lowers at home)
-replace heims on steering
-strengthen centerlink/press in new balljoint or throw a uniball on there
-fuel filter/egr
-cab cage
-move shackle hangers a few inches forward
-bedsides
-paint

te1 e1
code list
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...es/index.shtml

Originally Posted by Twisted Sid

te1 e1
code list
Toyota Tech - Diagnostic Trouble Codes

exactly what i was looking for. thanks a ton! ill get it checked out tonight.

so my truck is throwing code 21, which apparently has something to do with the 02 sensor. i figured i will just replace them both, but everywhere i look online only shows the pre-cat. one. can anyone post up some links to the ones i will be needing for pre and post cat? they are both 4 wire, so i am not sure if i can just get two of the same and run them?

also, my exhaust has been chopped and bugger welded back together to put on a magnaflow cat. could some small leaks in the welds cause the o2 sensor to fail? could it be the magnaflow cat? it passed smog no problem last time

rockauto sells both. i bought 2 new ones 2 weeks ago. only difference i could see was that they have different wire lengths.

awesome thanks!

Leaky welds can cause the cat to not run as efficiently as it should and if they are leaking bad enough it may throw a code when the computer isn't seeing proper pre and post oxygen levels. The on-board computer makes comparisons between the readings of the two sensors. If both sensors show the same output, the computer recognizes that the catalytic converter either is not functioning or has been removed, and will operate a "check engine" light and possibly retard engine performance. Of course it could be (and most likely is) an o2 sensor as the cheap ones crap out all the time. I would start by sealing up the welds (which you know already should be done anyways), clearing the code and checking again. You can then (if you have a temp gun) monitor the inlet and outlet temps of the cat to see if it's working properly. If everything checks out after that then replace the o2 sensor(s) Aftermarket cats do have less precious metals in them and thats why they are cheaper than OEM units and thus last half as long...

Of course you could also do what my lazy ass would and just replace parts and see what happens lol

Originally Posted by the bodj

so my truck is throwing code 21, which apparently has something to do with the 02 sensor. i figured i will just replace them both, but everywhere i look online only shows the pre-cat. one. can anyone post up some links to the ones i will be needing for pre and post cat? they are both 4 wire, so i am not sure if i can just get two of the same and run them?

also, my exhaust has been chopped and bugger welded back together to put on a magnaflow cat. could some small leaks in the welds cause the o2 sensor to fail? could it be the magnaflow cat? it passed smog no problem last time

Originally Posted by Diamond Dave

Leaky welds can cause the cat to not run as efficiently as it should and if they are leaking bad enough it may throw a code when the computer isn't seeing proper pre and post oxygen levels. The on-board computer makes comparisons between the readings of the two sensors. If both sensors show the same output, the computer recognizes that the catalytic converter either is not functioning or has been removed, and will operate a "check engine" light and possibly retard engine performance. Of course it could be (and most likely is) an o2 sensor as the cheap ones crap out all the time. I would start by sealing up the welds (which you know already should be done anyways), clearing the code and checking again. You can then (if you have a temp gun) monitor the inlet and outlet temps of the cat to see if it's working properly. If everything checks out after that then replace the o2 sensor(s) Aftermarket cats do have less precious metals in them and thats why they are cheaper than OEM units and thus last half as long...

Of course you could also do what my lazy ass would and just replace parts and see what happens lol

sorry i didnt see this reply, but thanks for the great info! they dont leak bad, maybe a pinhole here or there.

anyways, i had tonight off work and school so i decided to get to work on my list. the CEL turned off (it's been doing that. itll turn on and off every few hundred miles), but i havent been driving it enough to need to fix anything really. the passenger side still has a vibration. i pulled the wheelbearing, inspected it, repacked it, and tried that, but it's still there. im gonna throw on a new wheelbearing and upper and lower balljoints to try and remedy it.

but tonight we got rid of some of our friends quads my dad was working on, so i was able to get the truck in the garage. i pulled the shocks, broke down the leaf packs, and started cycling. right off the bat, i noticed something funny. the leaf eyehole did not want to line up with the shackle. it took a bit more muscling than i would have liked to get it to line up, on both sides, so im assuming the front hangers are not straight, which is a bummer. im assuming this is what's causing my shackles to rub the frame a bit. the shackles arent exactly super thick, and there is some decent flex in the "arms," so im sure that isnt helping. ill probably plate it or something. but anyways, i got it all bolted back up and started cycling and measuring. i attempted to fully bump it, but the leafs were 100% flat, and still a good 5 inches or so before even TOUCHING the stock bumpstop. i would have had to go into craaaazy negative arch to get it to bump. the total travel number came to a whopping 9.75" FREAKIN SWEET. i will never bring my truck to Killer Fab again. there were quite a few shortcuts they took, and it definitely showed. it doesnt help that i left the truck with them for a week, and it took them 5 days to take apart the rear, then START fabbing on the 7th day.

anyways, does anyone know what to do to remedy this? with my main spring at full droop, it is like 61.5" or so. they are the leaf packs that were on travis' old white yota. my front and rear hanger eye holes are also right at about 61.5"

tomorrow i am gonna play around with the hangers and move them forward and see what happens, but till then, do any of you guys have anymore advise?

stock chevy 62s sucks a dick if you want travel. you might be able to get 11 if you dont mind a little neg arch. they just dont have enough free arch to make it work. whats your front bolt to rear shackle mount length?

when they were on travis' truck he said he was pulling like 16 i think is what he said. cutting off the hangers is horrible hahaa. the hangers are right at about 59.75" apart from eyehole to eyehole. im gonna finish cutting off the shackle hangers, then keep tacking them forward little by little to see what happens. i had to cut a bit out of the rear crossmember so that the shackle wont hit it at all.

also though, i would like to get the springs re-arched and prepped by deaver, so hopefully thatll give me a little more to work with

59.75 is WAYYYY to far back. deaver 62s use 52.5 with a 12" shackle, id start there and see how they work. that way if u find a good deal on 62s you can bolt them up. i dont see anyway to get 16" of travel out of those lol.

yeah i know its way too far. thats why im going forward. and this is a total budget build. matt nelson is selling his f67s for like $400 i think, but i just cant afford it. either way, if i have it 52.5", that puts it right on top of the rear crossmember, and it would have to be cut out, no?

yes, some cutting has to be done.

i understand some cutting, but does the whole crossmember have to come out? that's what it's looking like, if i were to run the 52.5"

I ended up cutting the whole thing out an just welding in another tubes brace. Much easier than trying to work around it.

mine was cut out when i got my truck. i just did an install on another yota and only had to notch the cross member but his axle is pushed back 2ish inches.

i see. with these leafs, if i have them set at 52.5", my shackle will be pretty much horizontal hahaha.

figured that, those leafs are basically flat at ride height.

trucks lookin good man! sucks about the roll over.

thanks dude!
so here are pics from the rear.

this is full droop


full bump (didnt bump completely. didnt wanna go into de-arch, but there is still a little bit of bump to go)




and here you can see how the front hangers are angled or something, causing the shackles to be out of line and screwing everything up hahaaha



and then at the swapmeet today i scored some brand new glass from hannemann. it's the same fenders i had before. i missed them so much i had to get them again. im gonna be putting the ones currently on my truck up for sale soon. i got the front fenders and hood for $340. super stoked on that. i also got two passenger door skins for $20, since my door is dented from the tip.




i got excited haha

the shackles never line up perfectly. those are a bit to thin and that design will not work with deavers. that cross piece will hit the frame at bump. new shackles and some hard poly or delrin shackle pivots and you will be fine. my shackles rub on hard side loads.

good to hear. im gonna add some plating to the side. and i am clearancing and gonna be plating/some boxing (maybe) the rear section. why will they not work with deavers?

Dude thats the glass ive been wanting what is it called again?

Originally Posted by the bodj

good to hear. im gonna add some plating to the side. and i am clearancing and gonna be plating/some boxing (maybe) the rear section. why will they not work with deavers?

the rear eye let of my leafs will occasionally cum up and touch the frame at full bump, look at how much less room you have with that shackle design.

nvm just realized it looks like the back of your frame is cut off.

yeah i have it cut at an angle. i left the flat top though, so the bed can still bolt up there.

Originally Posted by TRD_yota

Dude thats the glass ive been wanting what is it called again?

That's the Hanneman Ivan Stewart set. Those look the best for a bolt on fender set, the only bummer is you have to get the hood so it adds to the cost. I had that set on one of my trucks and loved the style.

What is the glass you're selling? I may be interested.

Originally Posted by Motiracer38

That's the Hanneman Ivan Stewart set. Those look the best for a bolt on fender set, the only bummer is you have to get the hood so it adds to the cost. I had that set on one of my trucks and loved the style.

What is the glass you're selling? I may be interested.

im gonna have to do some work to them, to clean them up first, but these ones

Originally Posted by the bodj

taped up my new glass i think i accidentally got the 5" flare though? these seem bigger than my old set. im gonna need a wider front end soon hhaha

That is wide! Time to upgrade!

see im confused too. im almost 100% positive it's the same flare as my old set.




and those looked fine. ill cruise by elliots soon and check his out to see. i think it's just the angle of the truck. the rear is on jackstands right now and jacked wayyy up, so its at a bad angle for pics

I think they look awesome and I need a pair of those too, haha. I'm going to pass on your old ones, my front end is too wide.

thanks man, and no worries.

well, been working on the truck a lot. cut out the spare carrier and rear crossmember. i mounted the shackle hangers under the frame with the 7" shackle travis had on his truck with this setup, but i still couldnt get it to cycle right. with the crossmember gone, i was able to move the hangers forward enough with a 12" shackle to get it to cycle good, and now im getting about 14" which is perfect for my 14" shocks mounted at almost 1:1. i had to mock up some quick 12" shackles using angle iron and 1" galvanized pipe since the ones i have are GIANTs style and hit the frame too early. im gonna be making some TC style shackles soon. i also pretty much convinced my dad to pitch in and get a notcher and bender, so i might be able to do the cage here, which would be fun. i still need to order new shackle hangers, a new ubolt (killer fab crossthreaded one of mine), hood pins, heims, and balljoints.



put in a temp. crossmember




new shackle hanger location


and yeah, the rear frame is notched, but still needs to be notched a litttttle more. its gonna get plated in. also, the spares are gonna be sunk into the bed and resting on tubes, not the actual bed itself like it was before, so there shouldnt be much stress on the last bed mount

Why go through ALLL this work for those leafs? you can find a used set of deavers that will work way better for $400 or so. Unless your mounts are at the 52.5" (which it doesnt look like) you will have to redo all this work down the road if you switch to deavers.

Becuase he isn't a baller like you Andrew

Looks good young blood, keep it up!

Mike