Thread: 1450 truck by Killer Off Road Fabrication

Here is Lyle and Jim Weber's Ranger, built by Brian Taylor and Chris Freas of Killer Off Road Fab in Moorpark Ca. This truck has has a 6.0 LS motor, TH400, Pro-Am rack and hubs, Wilwood 6 piston calipers,Center pivot arms, SAW shocks, and a lot more work needs to be done. We set it on the ground for the first time last night. About to begin sheet metal. Thank you Jim and Lyle for all your support. Enjoy

[URL="http://www.killeroffroadfab.com"][ATTACH][ATTACH][ATTACH][/ATTACH][/ATTACH][/ATTACH]

Here are a couple more let us know what you think thank you


[ATTACH][ATTACH]Attachment 129249[/ATTACH][/ATTACH]

nice work, like the killer offroad fab logo welded on, you should post up a picture of a top view of the shock area in the front. or that area im curious to see how you did it.

Do you have a picture at full bump? front bump stop locations look awkward in the pics

Originally Posted by shaun_kite

Do you have a picture at full bump? front bump stop locations look awkward in the pics

we thought so too but it cycles out and works well. The bump stop hits just over the uniball on the upper arm and scrubs about 1/2 inch. I will snap some more shots and keep you posted. thanks

interesting to say the least

And I know its probably just an eye fuck, but whats with the rear limit strap in the side profile pic? Im pumped to see the finished product

you ment 1400 didn't you ,. hows the engine come out ...

Originally Posted by shaun_kite

And I know its probably just an eye fuck, but whats with the rear limit strap in the side profile pic? Im pumped to see the finished product

Ya that picture of the side view looks funny limit strap must be folded over funny, That was before the bigger rear bypasses also.

Engine comes out through the cab, the passenger side door bar structure is removeable using 5 Camburg tube clamps.

Thank you.

no caster?

looks great! killer did my bedcage. chris does awesome work! ive been watching them build this thing for a bit now. great job!

Originally Posted by ryanallen220

no caster?

thats what i noticed. seems like there is zero caster. that thing is gonna want to flip in a powering down turn

hate to change a spark plug lol...

How do you get the motor out? Through the cab? How do you get a cherry picker in the cab?

Originally Posted by squirelmurphy

How do you get the motor out? Through the cab? How do you get a cherry picker in the cab?

piece by piece...

why center mount? if your going thru that much work, do a PRO class like 7open...
not talking crap. would love to race against it.

plus it makes for a hand full to just drive in general. what is going on with the front bypasses?

Whats wrong with the bypasses?

Originally Posted by ryanallen220

plus it makes for a hand full to just drive in general. what is going on with the front bypasses?

this guy started posting out of nowhere, and i have yet to see any good constructive criticism come from him. just open ended questions and random critiques. i see nothing wrong with the bys.

the last compression tube is not being used, who knows how much shaft is left over at droop? the bypass is not being used to its fullest!

Originally Posted by ryanallen220

the last compression tube is not being used, who knows how much shaft is left over at droop? the bypass is not being used to its fullest!

How do you figure?

just because i just started posting has nothing to do with my questions, i am just pointing out some things to look out for! also for other posts that i have made are just some questoins that i have wondered for years. i have been on here for years just because i dont post on here dosent mean i dont know what i am talking about, i have been on here for years longer than you!

I like the look.
But it looks as thought the front tie-rods are out front with no protection. I hope you have plans for a bumper! I dig how far back the motor is, but kinda sucks that it has to be pulled through the door! Seems like a lot of unnecessary work that could have been built to make it easier.. As for the caster, you DEFF may want to add some in there by adjusting the heims on the upper arms. Also Caster gain as the truck bumps out will make the truck feel much more stable behind the wheel, and will also be much less harsh on the bumps. I'm not sure if the upper and lower arm mounts are perfectly parallel, but it is not exactly favorable to have it setup that way.

Otherwise the work looks solid and beefy. What's next for it?

Originally Posted by redsilvy

How do you figure?

the coilover has a longer shock eye

Originally Posted by ryanallen220

the coilover has a longer shock eye

The shocks appear to have the same amount of shaft showing, I can tell if the c/o is mounted higher but you can see that where it bottoms is higher then the bypass

Originally Posted by CheckMate

I like the look.
But it looks as thought the front tie-rods are out front with no protection. I hope you have plans for a bumper! I dig how far back the motor is, but kinda sucks that it has to be pulled through the door! Seems like a lot of unnecessary work that could have been built to make it easier.. As for the caster, you DEFF may want to add some in there by adjusting the heims on the upper arms. Also Caster gain as the truck bumps out will make the truck feel much more stable behind the wheel, and will also be much less harsh on the bumps. I'm not sure if the upper and lower arm mounts are perfectly parallel, but it is not exactly favorable to have it setup that way.

Otherwise the work looks solid and beefy. What's next for it?

Ummmm aren't all tie rods out front wiith no pretection... just sayin.. lol

Fox-1420

Look at the 2nd to last pic.. There is NOTHING in front of the tie rods. No frame rails sticking out, no bumper, no skidplate, etc. I hope their front end isn't done. Lol

Originally Posted by ryanallen220

the coilover has a longer shock eye

REALLY? lol

the bypass has a longer extended length because it is a 3.0 (or larger) while the c/o is only a 2.5. if you studied the pictures enough to notice the longer shock eye, its seems likes you should have noticed the bottom of the shock body on the c/o was up higher then the bypass, making the need for the longer eye since all the shocks mounts are at the same height.

sorry i never use sway-a-ways but fox and kings, say a king (race series) 12'' shock is 21.810 colapsed and 33.810 extended wether it is a 2.0 or a 4.0. he asked what people thought i was just pointing out xome things to look out for! not trying to piss people off.

Originally Posted by ryanallen220

just because i just started posting has nothing to do with my questions, i am just pointing out some things to look out for! also for other posts that i have made are just some questoins that i have wondered for years. i have been on here for years just because i dont post on here dosent mean i dont know what i am talking about, i have been on here for years longer than you!

my bad, didnt know you have sikk efabber skillz, bro!

Originally Posted by CheckMate

Look at the 2nd to last pic.. There is NOTHING in front of the tie rods. No frame rails sticking out, no bumper, no skidplate, etc. I hope their front end isn't done. Lol

The steering on the bug in your avatar is left completely open

Lol^

Fox-1420

Pretty sure this started out as a build thread...
Interested to see updates. Not really interested in interweb fabrication. If all the "pros" see something wrong with what they have done then oh well.

Originally Posted by slcpunk74

Pretty sure this started out as a build thread...
Interested to see updates. Not really interested in interweb fabrication. If all the "pros" see something wrong with what they have done then oh well.

X2!!

Originally Posted by Jr.fab

The steering on the bug in your avatar is left completely open

Looks like there is a skid plate in front of the bug to me.. Lol

nice work, do want.

Thanks to everyone who has checked out the build so far, I appreciate the kind words and the criticism. It encourages us to do better work and push our fabrication skills further. This week we are mounting the seats, finishing up the steering linkage, mounting the column and servo, setting up tie rods, and hopefully getting underway on the dash/ console paneling.

There are no tie rods in the truck yet, however, I assure you they will be well protected and build stout. The spindles have 4 degrees of caster. I"m not sure if that is enough or too much? Brenthel Industries drew all the suspension arms on solidworks, so we left the engineering and geometry to them. The shocks are being used properly, at full bump there is 1/4'' of shock shaft remaining on both the bypass and coil over shock. Al full droop we have the suspension strapped keeping 7/8'' coil over shaft unexposed, and 3/4'' bypass shaft unexposed.

If you guys have any more questions I will do my best to answer them and Ill try to keep you updated with more pictures of the progress soon...

Originally Posted by heavychevy1479

Thanks to everyone who has checked out the build so far, I appreciate the kind words and the criticism. It encourages us to do better work and push our fabrication skills further. This week we are mounting the seats, finishing up the steering linkage, mounting the column and servo, setting up tie rods, and hopefully getting underway on the dash/ console paneling.

There are no tie rods in the truck yet, however, I assure you they will be well protected and build stout. The spindles have 4 degrees of caster. I"m not sure if that is enough or too much? Brenthel Industries drew all the suspension arms on solidworks, so we left the engineering and geometry to them. The shocks are being used properly, at full bump there is 1/4'' of shock shaft remaining on both the bypass and coil over shock. Al full droop we have the suspension strapped keeping 7/8'' coil over shaft unexposed, and 3/4'' bypass shaft unexposed.

If you guys have any more questions I will do my best to answer them and Ill try to keep you updated with more pictures of the progress soon...

You determined the caster when you mounted the upper arms. 4 degress is not much.......is that at ride hieght or?

That is at ride height.

is the fortin rack in your second post a mock up, or did you mean to write fortin instead of pro-am? it looks killer so far, can't wait to see vids of it running

a chassis shop owner told me to run around 6* camber and if ive heard 8-10 in offroad is good, so i try and run around 8 degrees caster.