Thread: The Blue Bomber build

Ok. Im designing my radius arm brakets and ive come across a speed bump. On the passenger side of your frame... Right in front of the tranny xmember... your frame has a lip, it sticks down and I dont know what to do about that. Should I cut it off, grind it, design the braket around it?

cut and plate it off! i did on mine and theres no probs! plated those beams yet?

Originally Posted by EvanNumberSeven

Ok. Im designing my radius arm brakets and ive come across a speed bump. On the passenger side of your frame... Right in front of the tranny xmember... your frame has a lip, it sticks down and I dont know what to do about that. Should I cut it off, grind it, design the braket around it?

Grinding it off works or you build longer radius arms and mount the brackets behind the transmission cross member.

Mike

Nah I havent plated them yet. Tonight my friend Mike is going to help me with my resume and then tomorrow I hope to start a REAL job hunt. Anybody want to see my braket blue prints?

haha hell yea! getting a job sucks but w/e! post up the b/p's

and you know what the gayest part about it? I have applied at close to a dozen places so far. nothin... Two of which I asked if I could sign on as a volunteer so I could gain experience...THATS FREE LABOR!!! Still nothin

tack the plates with a mig welder and then tig them, its not that much welding. id say if your fast like 3-5 hours, and if your slow all day.

i also say tig. i have both and man, my mig welder doesn't see much use anymore as i love tig welding, its slower, but not bad.

I guess what Ill do is TIG the front so its sexy as hell. And MIG the back just to save time.

Ok Its going to be out of 1/4" plate
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The Passenger side will be easier because I wont have to worry about the brakeline deal... I will bring the face tab up where the dotted line shows... Also I designed the inside of the braket to be easily tool and movement accesible since Im not running hiems. For those of you hoo think I should, dont worry I will in the future. But right now this is my DD and it will remain that way for a long time.
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Have you seriously not learned how to post pictures yet lol?

yeah but i forgot.... I new someone would say something....lol

Haha I'm just messin' bro, just bored before class.

frick... Im getting nowhere with this. Im trying to remember. Im on photo bucket and i copy the IMG code... but I remember it was more than copy and paste... I had to alter the code by deleting something.... wow this is gay

Copy the "Direct Link" from Photobucket, click the "Add Image" icon on the toolbar of posts, and paste it in there. Bada bing, bada boom.

The "Add Image" icon looks like a small scenery of mountains and a sun (yellow background)

Ok... ef... now i feel stupid

why go threw all that hassle to make new pivots and longer radius arms and still use the factory bushing? id make that same bracket but use hiems
-mitch

x2. But if you can't afford new heims/bungs/spacers, go with new Energy Suspension radius arm bushings. Alot smoother than stock.

they look good, been awhile since last post did u get that all done?
look foward to seeing some pics.

Well, I havent got any done with the rad arms bracket. But I know I want to tig them... But the biggest electrode I got is a 3/32, will that do 1/4"?

And come on already, if I run it with squishy bushings, It will cut out a lot of the road vibrations to make a smoother more quiet ride. I will heim up when I get to the point where I have a full bed cage with deavers and Fox 3.0 triple bypass front and rear with LT C/Os in the front. But other than that. this beast does just fine getting me to class.

Originally Posted by EvanNumberSeven

Well, I havent got any done with the rad arms bracket. But I know I want to tig them... But the biggest electrode I got is a 3/32, will that do 1/4"?

And come on already, if I run it with squishy bushings, It will cut out a lot of the road vibrations to make a smoother more quiet ride. I will heim up when I get to the point where I have a full bed cage with deavers and Fox 3.0 triple bypass front and rear with LT C/Os in the front. But other than that. this beast does just fine getting me to class.

haha right on!

Thanks Brian!!!

Tig it. If that's what you know do it. If I was able to tig worth half a shit I'd tig everything I could. But for now I'm still trying to get going on the mig. Alot of dr is probably butt hurt an 18yr old is tig'n better then them.

i was told 1/4" could be welded with a 3/32 electrode by my welding teacher at the local community college...i havent tried it that thick yet though... try it on a little section and if that doesnt work out then at least you could say you tried!

Ok yeah, what Ill do today is test it on some plates... And then Ill post pics for you all to critique. I TIG fairly well. But I havent done anything that thick. So we will see how it goes... Thanks

3/32 rod is fine, ive used 1/16 rod on 1/8 and 3/16 plate before, its all about the fit up. nice tight fits is key, big gaps or whatever then you have to mig. if you know how to tig good then tig it, by the way what kind of schooling are you taking for welding?

well right now Im doing the local community college. But Im taking the structural classes and then some.

You can tell that the first one doesnt have enough filler metal. The second one still kinda doesnt.





It was a little harder than I thought. I ran it a 150 on a flat peace and it was way too cold. So I bumped it up to 166 and it was ok because I could have the pedal all the way down and if I moved slow enough it turned out half way decent. Really I should run it at 180 and that way I could skoot a lot faster and probably get a more consistant bead.

I did a destructive test on a butt joint, but since I ran it cold at 166 I only got about 3/32" penetration on the 1/4". But Im sure if I ran it at 180 it would have significantly gotten deeper.

Anyway... I didnt do anymore than what you see because it got really cold...

Well I got down to more tig testing and I got to options of TIG im looking at... I can take a quick run at it and make it look pretty and tight. Or, I can go ass slow and make a fat bead more like that t joint posted above.

Now the good thing about the tight weld is that It will be faster and look better. But the thing is that it took less than two tons to break that t-joint.

The better thing about the larger bead, which its probably only 1/32" bigger a side, it took almost five tons to break it. But it will take a lot longer obviously.

Now I do understand that realisticly, the small weld will hold because it will have fillet welds on both sides of each joint and its not taking forces in directions to fold it over on itself.

But I will tell you that I havent seen fat tig welds. And Id like to be someone to pull it off.

Opinions... Concerns?

shit. bump up the heat. im welding 1/4 mild on 200 just pedaling it.

shit dont any one clean their metal befor tigging? or am i the only one?

i clean my shit now lol. after cleaning it with a flapper then hitting it with some brake cleaner its like a whole new type of weld haha.

Originally Posted by stealthcammo1

i clean my shit now lol. after cleaning it with a flapper then hitting it with some brake cleaner its like a whole new type of weld haha.

i told you! lol you liked my rainbow dimes hu lol.

Well I tried cleaning it. I actually went to harbor frieght and got a new wire wheel for my gringer and it turns out those sobs is saturated in oil. I mean it was flinging everywhere like a chimp throwing shit. So oil got on my work piece which is obviously no bueno.... So I had to use those tiny stainless toothbrush the best I could.

Dont get me wrong... I like a clean work piece too ... I just need to clean that wire wheel first. And yeah Ill try it a 200. And when I do Ill post another pic. Thanks

Originally Posted by mcdirt@1s1k

i told you! lol you liked my rainbow dimes hu lol.

you have no idea.

I am looking to get the tie rod sleeves done tonight with pics also... comments, concerns?

Fish mouth the tubes to give more welding surface and don't let any slag drop into the slot an land on the threads or you will have to re thread the ends. Also if you have two sets of stock adjusters and you don't mind wasting one end, that will be even better because you can get more of the adjuster into the tube and even due a rosette. As long as your welds penetrate they will work just fine.

Bring to my house and I will MIG weld them for you. I live in Hesperia, and am willing to help you get that thing going. PM me.

Originally Posted by 87-RANGER

Fish mouth the tubes to give more welding surface and don't let any slag drop into the slot an land on the threads or you will have to re thread the ends. Also if you have two sets of stock adjusters and you don't mind wasting one end, that will be even better because you can get more of the adjuster into the tube and even due a rosette. As long as your welds penetrate they will work just fine.

Ah.. Ef. I didnt think of that. And I cut the sleeves before I posted the bluprint. So that means I need to go get two more pairs if I do that. Ok so Threat, I know that I can get sufficient penetration and fusion. My question to you is Can I pull it off the way I sit right now?