Thread: The Blue Bomber build

Yes, just fish mouth the tubes. I have made a shit load of them without using two sets and they hold up fine. You will bend your tie-rods before you bust the adjuster. Word of advise strap your front end at 13-15" and your tie-rods will last alot longer.

Originally Posted by 87-RANGER

Yes, just fish mouth the tubes. I have made a shit load of them without using two sets and they hold up fine. You will bend your tie-rods before you bust the adjuster. Word of advise strap your front end at 13-15" and your tie-rods will last alot longer.

Ok, Ill post a pic of the degree of mouth I ll put on it.. and you tell me more or less gimme 2 min

You know what, Scratch that... I cant even find my damn memory card. Ill just fish mouth them as much as I can... Hows that sound?

i made a pair like that a long time ago, even got a rosette in there. didnt even think of fishmouthing it though, but im not sure if the rosetts would have fit that way..

Alright and I assume those held up for ya. Well I am off to go weld these puppies. When I get back Ill look for that memory card and I will put up pics

i got rid of them but the guy never called back about anything, so he's either dead or they worked out great..

Originally Posted by RangerDude

i got rid of them but the guy never called back about anything, so he's either dead or they worked out great..

AAAAHHAHAHHHHAAAAHAHHahahhahhha...

Sorry for the blur...





Freshly brushed with some chocolate!!!

use a 1 1/4 wrench when you tighten those! there are little knots on the ends to do so

Does anyone know who built this truck? I think Chad McNeil did, or one of the McNeil brothers. Anyway that shits extended like 8inches on each side!

that was built by the beater twins i am pretty sure. 1450ranger on here.

Originally Posted by CVP PRERUNNERS

use a 1 1/4 wrench when you tighten those! there are little knots on the ends to do so

Ah, fo sho

Are those factory ranger beams extended? Dumb question but im still learning they look like factory beams, kinda like the ones i got that say dont cut,weld on these beams.

Yeah dude. I got the forged ones off an 85. The older ones from 88 are forged. Great ductility and smooth welding. Those cast Irons that you have are a no go on mods

nice, how they end up working? i got some off and 81 f150 think those would work they probally wouldnt need to be extended at the most a few inches for a wider track

Ive seen rangers with the f150 beams. I may be wrong but the beams are three inches longer, but for some reason, they look way wider than that on a ranger.

yea but thats like throwing a full size axle on a midsize those tires are gonna stick out far, i saw a jeep with fullsize gmc axles on, tires never thought about touched the cab. so i could see it looking wide, so youthink those would work, probally box em in though correct, i throwing a 302 in there

Well I know it can be done, you just have to run an f150 spindle, hub, rotor, brake, and possibly 16 in wheel setup. Thats a little more work than what I wanted to do. So I stuck with the ranger beams. As far as your design goes for your beams, just remember that everything is limited to 1. your imagination 2. your design and fab skills 3. your resources.

true, well heres the deal, the cut the whole truck up i got the motor tranny and ignition, the spindles still on th i beams and radius arms all in one piece with the brakes. So my resource was good, thank god my dad works in a scrap yard this is my build not too much to it yet, just figuring out what i need.

Ext cab ranger build

I like the way your truck was setup so thats why i asked thank for the responses. Thanks for the help and info

you may want to ditch the stock rad arms and see what someone is selling. That way no death shake, less binding and what not. But yeah that whole dad employee helps a lot. I still need to go get more shit from the yard myself.

And Im sure you already know, Just make sure you get the right drivetrain components to stick in behind that 5.0

yea the radius arms my and my dad and his former empolyee are gonna build, he used to build the trucks that why he gave us the whole front end of the truck, i got a c6 tranny and a built 9" rear end going in it so most of thats covered from my dads work. but thanks for the info on that makes me that much closer to actually building. woohoo

me myself, Im waiting to be called in to start working. Then Ill have money to finish my truck. I about 2000 away from sitting prerunner. Then the light rack, bumper, bedcage, 2.0s, deavers come next.

thats sweet man, what shock setup you gonna use or how much travel you looking to get out of it front and rear?? it might be in the thread but i must have missed it

From Bump to Droop in the front I hope to get at least 12" at strapped. Ill be running The ES9000 twins on each side. In the back for now, Ill throw on a couple Bronco II leaves and flip/drop the shackles. That way I get more droop (maybe another 3-5") without using those bouncy damn add a leaf bars

that be sick man, so just making sure i am right on, some fox 2.5x16 would work on the front if you fab it together correctly right, the steering is another issue but i think i got that covered. but i could pull 16 if i build it correctly with thoe f150 beams correct??

Im limited because of coil springs. But you on the other hand, You can pull 24" if you wanted to... Check a guys avatar on here. His names BigDogNate or somethin like that, Hes pulling lots of travel

o man, that would be sick but shoot hah, the shocks for that will be worth more then the whole truck when i complete it with all the deals of metal and engines and what not im getting that would be my biggest investement.

Check out FOA shocks. They are a sister co of King I believe. You can get new coilovers for as much travel as you want for 600 bucks

thanks for that man ill look into it.

Originally Posted by Jon-Dude

Does anyone know who built this truck? I think Chad McNeil did, or one of the McNeil brothers. Anyway that shits extended like 8inches on each side!

We built the truck. It has giant beams, with D35 ends. Trackwidth is approx. 90''

Originally Posted by 1450ranger

We built the truck. It has giant beams, with D35 ends. Trackwidth is approx. 90''

Holy Ass thats wide. Can you guys even get that on a lift?

Finished truck picture.

Does anyone want to help me with radius arms? I basically need the top tube and the down tube notched and bent. Kinda like this

I mean even just the bottom tube if someone can lend a hand and do that for me... Ill pay you 20 bucks for the bottom pair.

i've got what you need. 1 3/4 .120 mild tubing. the top tube has bung all ready for a 1 1/4 heim, and the bottom tube is bent already (just needs to be notched, which i can do) i was going to make them for someones truck, but ended up not using them. let me know if you want them. i'm in hemet.

Alright, nevermind... I got the tubes I needed, even though I bled out the ass for it. And everyone who has bugging me about HIEMS, ok ok Im going HIEMS.

Long story short, I talked to the guys at C&D and they convinced me with a lot of examples of why hiems are better.

Sorry for being a hard ass. But if someone went into detail like a human being instead of just saying Dude, bro dude... just go hiems. I wouldnt have been such a donkey about it.

A bend in the lower tube of the radius arms isn't mandatory... if you can set up your notcher to do one long notch you can run a straight tube.. this will give you more weld surface, which won't matter if you plate the radius arm in.. This way you can do it at home and get your caster set right.


If your planning on building an engine cage and running a coil-over shock in the future, bushings won't allow enough deflection... If your on a budget go through a place like ballisticfabrication.com for heims. The steel 1 1/4" heims have a load rating of 43,541 lbs which is sufficient for a weekend warrior/DD..

Originally Posted by coopaaron0

A bend in the lower tube of the radius arms isn't mandatory... if you can set up your notcher to do one long notch you can run a straight tube.. this will give you more weld surface, which won't matter if you plate the radius arm in.. This way you can do it at home and get your caster set right.


If your planning on building an engine cage and running a coil-over shock in the future, bushings won't allow enough deflection... If your on a budget go through a place like ballisticfabrication.com for heims. The steel 1 1/4" heims have a load rating of 43,541 lbs which is sufficient for a weekend warrior/DD..

Very true and valid on the hiems comment and the rad arm comment, But one thing that I didnt like about that straight tube design, is that even though strong and retro, when I see a design like that, I think of Skyjacker. And I want my truck to look sexy...

Yeah I once wanted sexy myself.. Until the bitch left me stranded in the desert.. That relates to 2 topics.

If you don't own a shop; theres no need to get into the "my dicks bigger than yours" part of the industry. Build it simple strong and reliable. You don't need flash you need reliability. We are all out to have fun, not to compete on who's truck looks sexier....

If someone says your radius arm looks like a skyjacker arm are you going to get affended by it?

few others, truck gets it.

HHAHhaha, no. I wont get offended. I just look on the modern day race trucks and its whats being used, its a design thats race proven and thats what makes me think streangth. And even C & D told me that that straight tube design works fine and is strong enough. But seeing that I payed a lot more money than what I preferred... Ill just work with what I got and stick to the original plan.

But I really do appreciate advice like what youre giving me right now. And I always consider my options up until the day of surgery. For example... My whole beam design changed to what it is now, the day before I got down to them.