Thread: Speed Unlimited F150 Build

Well we thought we would bring you all along for the build on this F150. As of now we are about a week into it and have finished a majority of the cab cage. I'll be updating the pictures a few times a week, so check back often!

Dont like how they did the top front window tube.

Originally Posted by rharleyrider

Dont like how they did the top front window tube.

If it is the same shop. I think they know what they are doing...

http://www.speedunl.com/webpages.asp?wpid=8

looks good john. pre runner? race? what r the plans?

It is a prerunner, but the customer wants to be able to enter it in a race if he wants.

rharleyrider - If there is something that you dont like (everyone has something they don't like or would do differently), at least explain your reasoning. Of all the areas of the roof, that is the least important area. The fullsize V-bars will continue through the firewall directly into the frame and the corners of the upper window tubes will get a corner gusset once the tubes are welded. Which will be MORE than strong enough.

Looks like a clean build, great job. Looking forward to seeing the suspension built

I don't think he questioned the stregnth or what you guys produce at all. Only stating the front overhead window bar LOOKS ugly with one bend in the center. Other then that looks bitchin...

looks clean.. keep up the good work.. keep those pics commin!

Originally Posted by Slablocal

It is a prerunner, but the customer wants to be able to enter it in a race if he wants.

rharleyrider - If there is something that you dont like (everyone has something they don't like or would do differently), at least explain your reasoning. Of all the areas of the roof, that is the least important area. The fullsize V-bars will continue through the firewall directly into the frame and the corners of the upper window tubes will get a corner gusset once the tubes are welded. Which will be MORE than strong enough.

It is more of a style thing, some may think it needs to be more forward and tucked with the window line otherwise it looks ugly. The way SU is doing this bar is not my style but that does not mean its weaker. It is not even done yet, and im sure by the time its done it will be plenty strong. SU does great work and i would assume they know what they are doing with this project.

looks good man.

jason

My comment was 100% more about fashion than function. I just see that as more of a pain to build a corner gusset that would keep the corner bend of the a-pillar strong with that top tube so out of the junction??

Wont be much harder, just a little more angle on both notches. Once its all plated in it will all tie together fine.

nice work cant wait to see it done. if i had the $$$ SU would be see my bronco for sure.

ps any idea when the Bronco will be done

A couple more..

awesome plate work yo

Ok, really REALLY stupid question, but what is the process of making those dimples and what's their main purpose?

Truck looks bitchin though. I would love to be able to weld that clean. Well, I would love to be able to weld well period, but you know what I mean.

the purpuse of the holes is to tie the plate into the frame more so it becomes more like one piece than a piece put on top of the frame. gives more welding contact to the frame so the plate wont rip off. very wise thing to do and very strong. also a great way to tie in those tubes to the frame. this method (plating of the frame) is called hard facing if i am not mistaking

good looking build. SU always puts out top notch work
-mitch

Originally Posted by promoto164

the purpuse of the holes is to tie the plate into the frame more so it becomes more like one piece than a piece put on top of the frame. gives more welding contact to the frame so the plate wont rip off. very wise thing to do and very strong. also a great way to tie in those tubes to the frame. this method (plating of the frame) is called hard facing if i am not mistaking

good looking build. SU always puts out top notch work
-mitch

Sweet, thanks. What about punching holes in the gusset like I see on rollbars and bed cages? Don't mean to hijack, just been wondering for a few days.

Originally Posted by Cerberus2k7

Sweet, thanks. What about punching holes in the gusset like I see on rollbars and bed cages? Don't mean to hijack, just been wondering for a few days.

To get chicks. Seriously.

Originally Posted by Cerberus2k7

Ok, really REALLY stupid question, but what is the process of making those dimples and what's their main purpose?

Truck looks bitchin though. I would love to be able to weld that clean. Well, I would love to be able to weld well period, but you know what I mean.

exactly like promoto said. if that plate were solid with no welds in the holes, it would be depending only on the edges which are welded on. now with the holes welded in, i can mount a bump stop or lay another tube into it... without having to worry about the bump "peeling" the plate work off. without the holes, the plate would work back and forth enough and eventually do the paper clip effect, and crack or break.

Originally Posted by Cerberus2k7

Sweet, thanks. What about punching holes in the gusset like I see on rollbars and bed cages? Don't mean to hijack, just been wondering for a few days.

Dimple Died holes make the piece of metal stronger and less likely to bend when done correctly.
-=Jason=-
p.s. plus its got the Bling Factor and that pulls Nanny

Originally Posted by rharleyrider

My comment was 100% more about fashion than function. I just see that as more of a pain to build a corner gusset that would keep the corner bend of the a-pillar strong with that top tube so out of the junction??

another thing. bringing that front bar back like that makes the very top roof bar angled more rearward, makes for less head room IMO.

Originally Posted by GFORacing1404DJF

another thing. bringing that front bar back like that makes the very top roof bar angled more rearward, makes for less head room IMO.

if you really think about it, your not loosing much head room.. when is your head really at the same place as that tube? and if your head WAS there, wouldnt it be hitting the tube if it were where most everyones tubes are (slightly forward)?

i aint baggin on ya, i just dont it makes enough difference to where you really loose head room. i mean, when your sittin in your seat, your head really isnt even close to those tubes anyways.

looks good though man, looks tuff!

thats funny, the first thing I noticed was the windshield head tube too, but I like it, it creates another slight angle to the piece in question as well as locating the joint behind the bend. I think this is probly a stronger design than streight . It looks like cage strengths and frame integrity is the last thing this truck will have problems with. Props on all the fab work

topnotch ? maybe middle notch , what happened on the right circle . ?

Originally Posted by jodaddy23

topnotch ? maybe middle notch , what happened on the right circle . ?

I decided to throw symmetry out the window to make way for function. Which is tying tubes into the frame, adding strength to the frame notch, and making sure I wont be welding through a hole when I add a bump stop.

nice plate work.. that center circle looks a little funky haha.. no biggie.. good job

No more stamped mild ball joint beams...

Originally Posted by Slablocal

No more stamped mild ball joint beams...

You guys are animals! I can't wait to see the final product.

How about a pic of the passenger beam?

iam with Steve more pics please

Is the engine using a custom mount? Or is it bolted into the stock location?

Why keep it a beam truck?
Kinda seems like going backwards. All this work and technology, i think it would cost the same to do an a-arm 4x4 that will handle better.

looks good either way, just curious because i know SU is not cheap.


jason

The engine is in the stock location.

Jason - doing a whole a-arm 4x4 front end would be bad ass, but its a whole new can of worms. We want to keep the vehicle true to its roots, and while it isnt the most modern of suspension designs, the D44 TTB front ends is still a good handling, proven strong front end. And the thing that gets me is that the weakest points (balljoints & knuckles) have never been eliminated to make an even stronger setup. I want to raise the bar on the 4x4 beam design... there are still tons of people running D35/D44 beam setups, and its time to give them some options.

Originally Posted by Slablocal

The engine is in the stock location.

And the thing that gets me is that the weakest points (balljoints & knuckles) have never been eliminated to make an even stronger setup. I want to raise the bar on the 4x4 beam design....

Just out of curiosity, have you personally ever seen a D44 ball joint failure? I know that in theory the ball joint is a weak point, and everybofy says that, but I've never seen a good set fail, even on race applications.

Originally Posted by Sites

but I've never seen a good set fail, even on race applications.

Same here. I've seen them fail, but improper installation, lack of maintenance or worn parts were to blame in the cases I've seen.

BUT, That's just for conversation. I'm really looking forward to seeing more of the project.

Originally Posted by Slablocal

The engine is in the stock location.

Jason - doing a whole a-arm 4x4 front end would be bad ass, but its a whole new can of worms. We want to keep the vehicle true to its roots, and while it isnt the most modern of suspension designs, the D44 TTB front ends is still a good handling, proven strong front end. And the thing that gets me is that the weakest points (balljoints & knuckles) have never been eliminated to make an even stronger setup. I want to raise the bar on the 4x4 beam design... there are still tons of people running D35/D44 beam setups, and its time to give them some options.

oh, makes sense. Im not a beam guy myself but i cant wait to see the detail in the welding on these beams. Are they going to make them similar to the Bronco ones with the TIG action?

jason

I have never personally seen a bj fail completly, But they wear out constantly. If you race a D44 beam truck with 35" or 37" tires, you will first wear the bj's out, then crack/tear the snout off the knuckle, and have too small of brakes for the application. Uniballs will last longer, be easier to change out, the knuckle assembly will handle the abuse, and you will have 14" rotors with massive brake calipers.

Jason - These beams will have almost identical styling to that of the bronco, but much easier to build in a repeatability standpoint. They will also be mig welded. We will be offering a complete front end kit after this project, so its being cut and bent for mig tolerances. Should come out real nice still.

I dont know why the picture on the last page shrunk either, so here is the fullsize of the beam...steve...haha.

Is this going to use the stock pivots?

No, it has a 1" uniball and were building 2" drop brackets

looking at the drawings it doesn't look like there is going to be any camber adjustability. Since the beams are going to have a fixed ride height how much lift are you building into them?

Mike

Originally Posted by Slablocal

No, it has a 1" uniball and were building 2" drop brackets

Cool. Is the distance between the differential and pivot end the same as stock or are you extending the beam there as well?