Thread: FAST-Fabrication class 7 unlimited build

I think the first pic would work best for you.

i was thinking of buying aluminum for a skid for my fuel cell is 1/8 6061 to big or not big enough or just right... u guys told me run 1/4 om the front bumper skid...

pick up correct tires tuesday

I run 3/16" aluminum for skids and my front is dented to shit. so 3/16" minimum/.

gotta do this. ask caso

who is caso

and i plan to run 1/4 on front skid tommy, but i thought for a rear fuel cell skid 1/8 would be ok... i place an order for 3x3 6061 cost me 105 for 3/16 would of been 135

school started today ugh.. tomo out to redlands to go get my correct tires.. have buyers on my old tires and even a trade for new 4.0

it was weird we got the tires and rims on the rear and actually 3/16 less track width then before, no bulging at all... looks bitchin.. not going to have to redo bedsides or anything just the lil bit of trim we were going to do to the back edge... things take forever to mount when following the instructions..baxck to work got lots of stuff to do in 3 days.. lots of bending tomo

wheel and tire weighs 125lbs bitch lifting up on to spare mount but they look awesome... that 250lbs sags the truck but our springs are not turn down right now...one more wheel to go

Where are the pics?

uploading right now ust for you zac... wen u going to get some work done...

my window net mount kit.. but were only using the top bar out of this.. they sent me two different size (thick) bars


dual 150 cfm race air


we also got all our fiberglass materials in as well as our new 240 degree die we will be using tomo

mounting our shoes

Thank You tp General Tire visit them at GeneralTire.com, I am very pleased with these competition tires.. no bulge whatsoever, was woried about my track width and it actually gave me more clearance. Highly recommend you check them out.

Thank you Allied/Raceline wheels, you can visit their site and see all their beadlock wheels and truck/suv wheels at racelinewheels.com The ring seats great on the tire and we are very happy with our change and happy we are using 17" wheels.











they weigh 125lbs a wheel mounted

Originally Posted by F.A.S.T.clothing

uploading right now ust for you zac... wen u going to get some work done...

Hopefully this weekend.....

Wheels and tires look good.

k get moving lol

this is what we did last week removed 7lbs of sound deadener... then laid some gorilla mat and rolled on bedliner









our new dimples


finishing touches to harness bar mounting fresh air to it tomo

im not sure how im going to do this 12 hr skool day on wed then drive 4 hours after 7pm to az get up early to work next 3 days..
yesterday spent hole day mounting wheels, today we completed fresh air mount, led dome mount, window pillar gussets and started on light bar


















we had a huge storm tonight

tomo last day going to try and finish light bar and door bars

9/4 next thurs-sat last week of fab (steering column and pedals, close cab up, bolt on front bumper to sell at expo)

9/11 following thus-sat fiberglass work (visor and scoops wont have time for dash, finish any welds and paint cage work

9/18 following thurs-sat prep truck and body and glass work start painting

9/25 thurs-sat paint truck and lay sponsor graphics

10/2 thurs-sat modify trailer and do any extra work we have time for like front spindles etc

10/7 load up sand head out to the expo

so that is the schedule i have hopefully will get full work days those 3 days i have all thed parts i need, on days we finish what we had plan will work on more fab work like on front of truck, im really hoping to have the bumper for sale, going to make it a bolt on with plated horns...also going to try and get custom ezup and shirts made for expo as well, c u there thanks for the support

well back to CALI

spent whole day on light bar, its a lot of work building everything from scratch (tabs, tubes, etc) especially with not all the fancy tools, i think it turn ouy bitchin though and we just need to do the adustment bars, I ran out of that tubing size.

One cool thing is that if we ever want to put the big lights we use for the front bumper up top they will barely fit.









laid dash back on and slip on the new shoes over the stock d44 hubs barely able to get a lug nut on.. switching to 5/8 studs next week... best thing is we are exactly 85" and they were not tighten down, so looks like were all good on trackwidth










some of my fav new pics.. truck is sagging so much with that extra 250lbs in back..but we dont have coil springs tighten right now



tested vision x 50 watt hid spot.. here is pic with light off and then with on in same spot... garage is about 90-100 ft away

You have any more up close pics or more information on that Dome light?

I've been meaning to start looking for some that could securely mount to tube, since I kept my stock dome light wiring

Why the sliders on a race truck? Is that legal?

i put sliders in for co drivers, i sam pretty sure their legal, didnt see anythingh about it in all the stuff i have read and the inspection guy didnt say anything

and the vision x dome light its called a rock light pod.. you can see it in the picture with all the vision x stuff, but i dont have any other pics, i can get more when i go back

I just finished reading All 13 pages of this this thread and all I can say is.... I hate you.

just in case your new to this thjread all the progres you have seen .ately was done by fast fabrication.. and truck will be at the expo to get a closer look

finished the light bar









cut the door skin out.. we are doing a different door bar, havent seen anything like it that i know of but should be strong and easy for me to get in and out of


mounted the side mirrors, decided to make a 3d box to flow the spot were old mirrors use to be... this and the other things we have done in the cab has made this cab so solid to the truck you shake or bang on it anywhere and whole truck moves with no vibration








we also sealed up the passenger side of the firewall, tomo we are installing the steering and pivot and quick disconnect as well as seal up driver side firewall and get it finished like the back before i head back to CA

full day of work steering wheel is mounted, we now have steering, well once we figure whatt is wrong with the crossover steering some pics a little later, tomo we gusset our side mirrors, mount rear view, fab door bars and then we can seal up the rest of the cab and dynamat the rest and line it... also going to knok out coolers if times allows for it...

steering column








rear view mirror



mirror gusset



window nets




finished cab with gorilla mat

You're not running windows anymore correct?

Nope no windows

Then why all the insulation and stuff?

several reasons.. we pulled/scraped all the old factory sound deadener got it to bare metal.... then we cover it in the mat to deaden sound and vibration but also to keep engine heat out and there is another reason but im drawing a blank.. also use it along with another component to seal the cab good from water, mud etc from coming in from anywhere but windows and for also cleaning

completed door bars, they bend out into the door making it stronger then just a straight bar, easy egress and ingress for me.... completed cooler mount minus the drilling and tapping into the pipes.






cooler mounts

Anytime you bend a tube, you're making it weaker than a straight tube. Looks good though.

Originally Posted by F.A.S.T.clothing

completed door bars, they bend out into the door making it stronger then just a straight bar, easy egress and ingress for me.... completed cooler mount minus the drilling and tapping into the pipes.

beat me to it trfytoy

Id throw a tube from the top of the A pillar down to the front of the door bar where it hits the A pillar, hope that makes sense. Seen many a folded cages...

I'd make the doorbar hit the junction on the B pillar instead of it being a dead tube

ok not all tubes bent are weakend... same reason factory puts two bends in their door brace instead of flat piece for strength.... if that was a straight bar then a side hit could just push it in... with the bend in it and the brace in the bend... a side hit would have to be so hard to spread the pillars.. it cannot push the tube in... and it doesnt need a bar coming down in the front..... its not a dead tube.. and the cab is really solid mounted to the cage, the cab is solid.. just like using triangles...

and does nmot need a tube from the back hoop up to the middle like you see in a normal straight bar.. that would be a dead tube doing nothing

i dunno maybe you cant see it good enough in the pictures

Dead tube circled. This is how I would have done them in you wanted just a single tube.

Originally Posted by F.A.S.T.clothing

ok not all tubes bent are weakend... same reason factory puts two bends in their door brace instead of flat piece for strength.... if that was a straight bar then a side hit could just push it in... with the bend in it and the brace in the bend... a side hit would have to be so hard to spread the pillars.. it cannot push the tube in... and it doesnt need a bar coming down in the front..... its not a dead tube.. and the cab is really solid mounted to the cage, the cab is solid.. just like using triangles...

and does nmot need a tube from the back hoop up to the middle like you see in a normal straight bar.. that would be a dead tube doing nothing

i dunno maybe you cant see it good enough in the pictures

you need to add another tube in the door bar to go to the a pillar by the dash, score or bitd would never let you race with the cage that way.

the tube you circle.. is at that height because of two reason.. one we had made the plates go down to fix the cab that was not welded on the inside and was not flush when bvack on so we wanted to weld the plate over the cut to strengthen it.... second because the cab is pushed over... the spacing between that pillar and cab is different on each side and would of required not only cutting into the gusset but the cab as well..could not go straight because woulld rub heavily on seat because how far away that pillar is from cab

simon i built it for snore and snore along with majority of others besides score and bitd which do not require a door bar with cage.... and from what the tech guy told me bitd is the worst when it comes to inspecting that they rely on the individual to keep themselves safe. As for score, when time comes I will ask a tech guy if a diagonal from a pillar down to top of door bar will be sufficient... Most likely wont hit a SCORE race until new truck is built, but if we do it will be the prim or vegas race, not looking to go down to baja anytime soon.

I am confident in the door bar and cage.. the cab is so rigid now, before it vibrate like crazy and the top half of the cab was not resting back on bottom half of cab correct23

when we were building them we tried different stuff and was going to add the tube going down but realize that if we did I would have to probably build a step (which i think were going to do out of fiberglass in the door anyways) but also with the way it bends into the door if their was a side impact that section right there would go in but not as far as my leg so that was another reason why we did not.

I think I will just take it to the tech guy and get the final verdict from them

Out of curiosity, you've mentioned a couple times about pursuing a master's... What in? Not to be a dick or anything, but you might want to work on the spellcheck and grammar a bit. People will take you much more seriously when your writing is clear and precise.

Back on topic though, might want to double check w/ tech people about the door bar just so you aren't turned around or something... simon5ay5 has been through tech once or twice, and it may be worth listening to his advice and at least checking.

- Eddie