Thread: FAST-Fabrication class 7 unlimited build

Originally Posted by trfytoy

What springs are you guys running on beams? This is ride height. 95% up travel.

were running 12'' 2.5 swayaways with a 400/500 spring rate. they are 12 inch coils.


looks like you have 14's with 16 inch coils???

He got 14" coilovers with 16" lower springs 450lb and 14" upper 300lb. Im not sure why its sitting so high..

dayum!!! you need about 6" less spring. a little more leverage on the coil over would help. Why did you mount the bypass on the inside? who do you think you are??? mike smith?

14" SAWS use 2 14" springs. I'd go with a 300lb top over a 450lb lower.

Originally Posted by Go Go Gadget Arms

dayum!!! you need about 6" less spring. a little more leverage on the coil over would help. Why did you mount the bypass on the inside? who do you think you are??? mike smith?

lol...sorry, I figured the coilover should be mounted on top of the beam.

Originally Posted by 85yota

14" SAWS use 2 14" springs. I'd go with a 300lb top over a 450lb lower.

Thats what I was thinking. Oh well, thats what happens when the customer orders parts and not the builder.

Damn, I sense a little hostility in here...

in most scenarios you want the bypass as close to the wheel as possible so you get the most control and adjustment out of it. if you put the coilover closer to the fulcrum it may help your ride height by increasing leverage onto the coilover. minor adjustments should be able to get the height shorted out

Originally Posted by Go Go Gadget Arms

in most scenarios you want the bypass as close to the wheel as possible so you get the most control and adjustment out of it. if you put the coilover closer to the fulcrum it may help your ride height by increasing leverage onto the coilover. minor adjustments should be able to get the height shorted out

That makes sense, I was more concerned with the coilover trying to rip off the mount. Ill swap the bypass and coilover and see what that does. Thanks for your input.

Originally Posted by Go Go Gadget Arms

in most scenarios you want the bypass as close to the wheel as possible so you get the most control and adjustment out of it. if you put the coilover closer to the fulcrum it may help your ride height by increasing leverage onto the coilover. minor adjustments should be able to get the height shorted out

I understand on an A Arm truck with an inner & outer shock setup to put the bypass on the outside. But on a beam truck, how much closer to the wheel is the bypass when it it off the front of the beam vs. the front of the radius arm? And aren't you concerned with ever hitting a big rock(sorry gregasauras rex!) & wiping out the bypass in that scenerio?

Originally Posted by trfytoy

That makes sense, I was more concerned with the coilover trying to rip off the mount. Ill swap the bypass and coilover and see what that does. Thanks for your input.

I would do the swap, a bypass sees WAY more leverage than a coil over could ever see under normal conditions.

Originally Posted by V8ranger

I understand on an A Arm truck with an inner & outer shock setup to put the bypass on the outside. But on a beam truck, how much closer to the wheel is the bypass when it it off the front of the beam vs. the front of the radius arm? And aren't you concerned with ever hitting a big rock(sorry gregasauras rex!) & wiping out the bypass in that scenerio?

If my bypass gets taken out by a rock, ive got much bigger problems to worry about. You really dont want to make the coil over do too much work or the seals will melt in a few minutes. the coil over does not have speed sensitive control and is not built to take the load that a bypass can take.

Originally Posted by trfytoy

lol...sorry, I figured the coilover should be mounted on top of the beam.




Thats what I was thinking. Oh well, thats what happens when the customer orders parts and not the builder.

your joking right josh your going to say something like that... for months i asked you what springs to run, you finally said to ask someone else so i asked rob anderson

It's fine as long as the coils haven't be scratched return the 16's for some 14's, that should do it.

Mike

and josh

I sent you 2 350lb 14" coils and 2" 450lb 16" coils for front

the 300lb 16" coil goes in the rear

300/450 for the rear

that's only 6 springs, I think he needs 8??? Also SAW shocks don't use a 14" and a 16" spring like King and Fox. Just 2 14" springs.

Another thing I run 300 over 350 on my truck with the coil overs mounted off the front of the beam. To me 350 450 seems pretty damn stiff, but I guess it's the norm.

Mike

i sent him 4 16" 450lb springs he has 8 springs.... i just did what rob anderson of deznation told me to order

ill get another 14" when i get the truck back

I told you what length to get, wasn't sure on weight. Either way, doesn't really matter now.

Rob told you to order springs for a fox or king as mentioned above. Less bickering and most pics please.

Mike

have you got the bump cans up and mounted lets see a full bump pic?

btw i think the tires wont toe in so much once the correct spindle and hub is on.... right now thats a 5/8 stud rim sitting on std size studs.... but i could be wrong... its a beam truck lol.....

josh i sent you8 straps right to dual front and rear? been so long since we bought them at the offroad swap meet

Originally Posted by Go Go Gadget Arms

dayum!!! you need about 6" less spring. a little more leverage on the coil over would help. Why did you mount the bypass on the inside? who do you think you are??? mike smith?

Are you refering to me? Being as my name is mike smith and that is how my shocks are set up on my truck lmao.


By the way with my 14" kings, I have 14" 300 over a 16" 400.

DR stands for DRAMA!

-=Jason=-

Double crossed!!!!!!

Originally Posted by 04yfzkid

Are you refering to me? Being as my name is mike smith and that is how my shocks are set up on my truck lmao.


By the way with my 14" kings, I have 14" 300 over a 16" 400.

Uhh no.. lol i meant the REAL Mike Smith... ya know the dude who builds trophy trucks and shocks for a little team called Terrible Herbst.



no hard feelings on the name mike

Originally Posted by Go Go Gadget Arms

Uhh no.. lol i meant the REAL Mike Smith... ya know the dude who builds trophy trucks and shocks for a little team called Terrible Herbst.



no hard feelings on the name mike

It's all good, I figured that is who you were talking about.

im not to worried on the springs, just getting fab work done the truck is probably going to go through a lot of shock changes once we start driving and tuning it.

btw those are suspension spring specialist coils, so will see how they do

sounds like things are getting sour between builder and customer?

I'm still wondering how much farther the the bypass would to the wheel from the radius arm vs. the front of the beam? Doesn't really seem like much to me... guess I'll have to measure it on my truck.

things are not getting sour... just been a really long build and stressful on both sides for josh and I from acquiring parts to other set backs...but were still cool

good to hear

Denial is more than a river in Egypt.

Mike

I personally would just change out the top spring. Also dont be afraid to move the truck around just to double check your ride height. You wont be able to tell unless you do. You cant just put an I-beam truck on the ground and expect it to sit where it needs to after installing coilovers. Move that bitch forward and backwards a few times

Originally Posted by Threat Motorsports

I personally would just change out the top spring. Also dont be afraid to move the truck around just to double check your ride height. You wont be able to tell unless you do. You cant just put an I-beam truck on the ground and expect it to sit where it needs to after installing coilovers. Move that bitch forward and backwards a few times

What's your take on the shock placement Dizzzzave?

Thanks for the info Dave. You kit went on amazingly well and cycles awesome!

Originally Posted by V8ranger

What's your take on the shock placement Dizzzzave?

Its fine how it is and is more then sufficient. If they were flip flopped its not going to make a "huge" difference. I would just leave it how it is.

Originally Posted by trfytoy

Thanks for the info Dave. You kit went on amazingly well and cycles awesome!

Thanks man!

Originally Posted by Threat Motorsports

Its fine how it is and is more then sufficient. If they were flip flopped its not going to make a "huge" difference. I would just leave it how it is.



Thanks man!

dave i see from that pic you got the glassworks clip on.. do u have better pics or how you mounted the grill? also how did you connect the clip to the qtr panels.... im going to have to install the clip myself

still need info and help on how this glasswork clip mounts.... josh told me it will be ready for pickup at xmas, so that gives me a month to get a lot of work done. First thing will be getting everything powdercoated and getting rearend done with all the internals and driveshafts built.

I need the nodular case, f.f. axles and brake parts and drive shaft

Cab welded up and upper links done..