Thread: FAST-Fabrication class 7 unlimited build

yeah it was a BITCH loading your truck on to the trailer. if it wasnt for those ratchet straps we would of never got the beast on the trailer.

at shop

at home, front glass mocked up

were should i mount front bumps?

truggy hiding under cover lol jk

btw guys i have a lot of stock parts that im getting rid of like stock tank with new fuel pump installed... ac unit, radiator overflow, etc

Originally Posted by trfytoy

I dont mind, They are close to 90* at bump. More importantly, they are approaching 90* at bump.

cool, just thought it looked like it might go past 90.

How much space do you have between the body of the coilover and bypass? From what I can see from the pics it looks like there is plenty of room for the bumps right in between them.

threat the bolts of the swinger mout are rght there, never pm me about light box... also neve sent me pics of your grill skeleton.. it would help us alot tomo... the kid im working with has your d44 kit on it to.. allout.. on here

Originally Posted by F.A.S.T.clothing

threat the bolts of the swinger mout are rght there, never pm me about light box... also neve sent me pics of your grill skeleton.. it would help us alot tomo... the kid im working with has your d44 kit on it to.. allout.. on here

Its pretty simple, you just need to hang the header panel just as you would fenders or bedsides. Im not sure what you mean by the swinger mount being right there? Are you asuming its in the way for your bumps? Hell no son I see plenty of room! You just need to take your time with it. Pm sent again on the light box.

do i want to build plate off of the swinger bolt on plate, or does the bump need to be higher? im going to order the vertical tube bump mount from PP for the rear and the pad, but no flush room for frame mount between swinger of steering and beam swinger

Originally Posted by 84prerunner

cool, just thought it looked like it might go past 90.

Close to, but not quite. I set up the shocks at full bump to make sure. Pulled 30.25" of travel metal to metal.

truck looks so mean man cant wait to see it out there driving around. what front glass is that?

You live in a condo and building a race truck in the parking lot? Lol



Logan it looks like Glassworks new clip. Like daves(threat)



Truck looks badass man,like posted before. Looks super super mean and a badass stance.

got the clip on today... we decided to mount the grill fixed to the clip so we will probably build it on a tilt, only thing left to do on clip is tighten bolts, mount hood pins, and put a couple brace tubes....

tomo mounting bumpstops and straps

have some questions on bumpstops and sway bar

cant see bar from front




move it again tonight... only took 20 min this time getting on trailer

the gap on clip wont be as bad when done and tighten down

everyone compressing the rear suspension after tecate and carne asada, there was 3" of bypass shaft left down from 12", we didnt bump it alll the way





the idea is to buy PP horizontal bump mount and mount on this tube and pad on back of axle, we compress bump completely, have it touching the pad to mount it in the right spot correct? How much do we bump the truck, do we want a certain amount of shaft showing, say if its a 4" bump stop, leave an extra inch of shaft to be safe, so compress suspension till 1" of shaft left on bypass, or is that not right?

i was going to mount straps (two quad straps per side) on the inside of the vertical tube, and then mount sway bar off of the trailing arm, somewhere around this pic? cell was to high for where i really wanted it



or reverse it to axle

thats a failry short amr, you might have to mount the sawy bar off the link to get full travel out of the suspension. but i really dont have any experience setting up sway bars.
and for shock shaft id probably leave a 1/2" with the bump fully compressed.

I would set it with with 1/2 of shaft left also mount the limit starps as far to outside as possible. I mounted them off the back to stay out of the way of all the other moving parts. Here is a picture of mine you can see the limit strap and the sway bar. Try to have the sway bar set parallel to the ground at ride height.

thats exactl were I wanted my sway bar but fuel cell is to high... if it was flush with that top bar i could of done that, but its not

mounting the sway bar off the axle is the best way to do it. your arms look like a good length i am guessing about 20" center to center.

Do you already have the torsion bar?
Your truck is in gg off the 22 and what street? I am off the 22 and harbor blvd right by Giant I have a plasma that you may beable to use on the weekend. If you want to buy the consumables and that pizza and beer.

off the 22 and brookhurst right down street.... u should stop by tomo and check it out.... ill buy all that... yes i have the bar... but have no iodea on how im going to do sway bar

spent 225 on tabs and small shit.. didnt even get tube and plate yet... whats the difference from using 1/8 pno and 1/8 hot rolled plate

gotta luv our sport when u spend 225 on a few things lol

if anyone needs these stock things let me know'

overflow


driveshaft


air box minus maf


d35 spindles


ac

should we fully weld these or just sections? debating on dimple dies

front clip just needs vertical tubes on qtr fenders and grill tubes




rear tube section for bump

my GMR housing is for sale with snouts welded in

My housing is for sale, it has only been used for mock up, has never had an gears or axles in it. I had snouts welded in the same ones Camburg, Dezertnation, and Arrow Fab use in their hubs. I am keeping the hubs unless its worth my wild to sell as a package.

The housing has all the upgrades, the 55" truss, the lower links, 3 link set up, the weld in drain plug, thats 500-600 in upgrades depending if I got 4130 lower links I need to check again.

Add the GMR 3.5 .250 wall housing and snouts 1700+ set up

1000 obo.... this is brand new, you can run several hub set ups

I am in orange county, let me know if you are interested.











this is a great housing... which I am still running in my truck just a lil different set up

Whose housing are you going to run now?

How wide did you approximate the axle to be with rims/tires on it?

same housing.. from outside of my tire to outside of tire.. was 85" thats a 35" 12.5 on kmc with 4.5 bs

Isn't that the setup that is under the truck now? What are you doing?

Are you selling because you are going with a different hub/snout combo? You do know you can just cut the old ones out dont you?

Originally Posted by Threat Motorsports

Are you selling because you are going with a different hub/snout combo? You do know you can just cut the old ones out dont you?

yeah in a way, the snouts are those 2.25 inch ones with the small OD so that it had to be slipped into the housing originally. Made it so that if we cut it out then the width would be reduced by 3-4 inches per side.


There is nothing wrong with the housing, I think he will keep the hubs for the front, then he is using Sch in the rear. The spread on the current snout is narrow, the ones he is switching to will be the wide spread. He already needed brakes, axles, third members ect.....

After crunching the numbers it was cheaper for him to simply get a package from us and use the Arrow hubs for the front. Still maintaining the width of the rear.

jason

Originally Posted by jason@gmachine

yeah in a way, the snouts are those 2.25 inch ones with the small OD so that it had to be slipped into the housing originally. Made it so that if we cut it out then the width would be reduced by 3-4 inches per side.


There is nothing wrong with the housing, I think he will keep the hubs for the front, then he is using Sch in the rear. The spread on the current snout is narrow, the ones he is switching to will be the wide spread. He already needed brakes, axles, third members ect.....

After crunching the numbers it was cheaper for him to simply get a package from us and use the Arrow hubs for the front. Still maintaining the width of the rear.

jason

Oh I see Grasshopper...Keep on shreddin my good man!

Hey can I have the stock driveshaft and spindles???