Thread: Updated pics

Awesome!! Mine is due December 25! ANd don't believe all the bullshit about the fun ending........the fun has just begun, kids rock!!!!

Originally Posted by SWAYAWAY

I know its not a pic and its off topic.....But I just found out I am having a BOY!

that exo is a beut.

Got a new bolt and nut today. Hopefully I will be able to get the washers next. Then maybe next month I will be able to afford something to use the bolt on. Cost of the bolt set my race date back till 2012.

Originally Posted by flawlessrnr

here are some more pics with the upper links on there.

Hey chris, like the truck... Random question... where'd the 1497 go? or did you do a race where it was taken and you had to change?

Originally Posted by Cooter

Got a new bolt and nut today. Hopefully I will be able to get the washers next. Then maybe next month I will be able to afford something to use the bolt on. Cost of the bolt set my race date back till 2012.

ahhhhhhhhhhh hahahaha! I hear that!

Originally Posted by Cooter

Got a new bolt and nut today. Hopefully I will be able to get the washers next. Then maybe next month I will be able to afford something to use the bolt on. Cost of the bolt set my race date back till 2012.

x2 haaaaaaaaahaaaaahaaaaaaaaa

i think you mean 1494? thats the number i ran for a couple seasons a couple years ago and yeah someone else was using it so i was forced to change at ridgecrest this year. no biggie though the race goes on

Originally Posted by c4k30rd34th

Hey chris, like the truck... Random question... where'd the 1497 go? or did you do a race where it was taken and you had to change?

SO I GOT TO GO HAND OUT WITH LUGO TODAY AND DO SOME TINKERING...HE WAS A WAY COOL GUY AND I SHOULD BE OUT PITTING FOR THE NIGHT RACE WITH HIM POSSIBLY HERE SOME SNAPS I TOOK TONIGHT

lugo has some nice toys

Looks good Greeley

Originally Posted by rrp fabrication

A little update for Whiteboy951 Upper shock mounts going in, strapped at 18". Still have to finish up the passenger side mounts and the over the top X-brace. More update tomorrow. Off to school now

you guys running 12" shocks on that?

Originally Posted by TC yota

you guys running 12" shocks on that?

Yep.

small garage update. i started on making a new welding table because my old wooden table was not very welder friendly


took some scrap bolts i had layin around that fit the notcher and cut the head off and welded them on to the table.


still need to add supports in the middle and cover with 1/4inch steel and add castors.

Not a fab update but took the Yoter out to Ocotillo on Saturday..She ran great the whole trip and ran alot smoother than expected down the wash..

Yoter in her natural habitat

You should cut out the little flaps below the head lights. It makes it look a little cleaner.

Came yesterday

those Mil. holesaws go fast for some reason, nice notcher though!

talked to lugo today and he's not racing the night race. i really wish he would i want to see the new truck in action. glad to see someone in bakersfield helping him out. i used to do what your doing when he lived in chino!

steve

Originally Posted by SWAYAWAY

SO I GOT TO GO HAND OUT WITH LUGO TODAY AND DO SOME TINKERING...HE WAS A WAY COOL GUY AND I SHOULD BE OUT PITTING FOR THE NIGHT RACE WITH HIM POSSIBLY HERE SOME SNAPS I TOOK TONIGHT

It is by far one of the nicest/cleanest 1450s I have seen, its funny because hes just like yeah we took that off the tt and that and that....it was great! I told him I had one of the nicest done up trucks in Bakersfield...(not anymore) haha

Originally Posted by //THE WEDO//

those Mil. holesaws go fast for some reason, nice notcher though!

If you mean going bad, I think I know what you mean

After doing 2 notches, it seems the cutting edge is now warped(as it someone has stepped on it) and now not as circular. I did cut some test angle iron first, maybe the problem? Didn't have lubricant, maybe problem? Get a better hole saw? Perhaps I need to get some cutting lubricant...

I need to make a slight mod as it sits about a 1/32 too high. It's fine for the angle iron as I can rotate it a bit and it comes out fine, but on some tube I had extra of, one side was fine(was a bit flat on the edge) but the other side was so sloped and I can tell that if I welded it, there's so little metal it'd burn away... it'd be like welding 1/16 sheet, but using the heat set for welding 3/16

Anyone point me in the right direction or tips?

my cousin and i started to build that truck for him and we ran out of room so he had newhan finish it. it came out nicer then i expected!! your really lucky to help wayne he is one of the nicest people i have ever met in my life.

so have you met the entire family yet? lol

Originally Posted by SWAYAWAY

It is by far one of the nicest/cleanest 1450s I have seen, its funny because hes just like yeah we took that off the tt and that and that....it was great! I told him I had one of the nicest done up trucks in Bakersfield...(not anymore) haha

Originally Posted by Armistice

If you mean going bad, I think I know what you mean

After doing 2 notches, it seems the cutting edge is now warped(as it someone has stepped on it) and now not as circular. I did cut some test angle iron first, maybe the problem? Didn't have lubricant, maybe problem? Get a better hole saw? Perhaps I need to get some cutting lubricant...

I need to make a slight mod as it sits about a 1/32 too high. It's fine for the angle iron as I can rotate it a bit and it comes out fine, but on some tube I had extra of, one side was fine(was a bit flat on the edge) but the other side was so sloped and I can tell that if I welded it, there's so little metal it'd burn away... it'd be like welding 1/16 sheet, but using the heat set for welding 3/16

Anyone point me in the right direction or tips?

i have the same problem on my notcher too, same model... i'm lazy and havnt done it yet but the quick fix is to mark the allen bolt that the chuck block sits on and grind it so it sits lower. kinda silly for a nothcer that is that adjustable to not be able to notch on center, kick ass unit otherwise.

Originally Posted by garagebuilder

i have the same problem on my notcher too, same model... i'm lazy and havnt done it yet but the quick fix is to mark the allen bolt that the chuck block sits on and grind it so it sits lower. kinda silly for a nothcer that is that adjustable to not be able to notch on center, kick ass unit otherwise.

Not as good as the notcher you sent to Blitz!

Originally Posted by Armistice

If you mean going bad, I think I know what you mean

After doing 2 notches, it seems the cutting edge is now warped(as it someone has stepped on it) and now not as circular. I did cut some test angle iron first, maybe the problem? Didn't have lubricant, maybe problem? Get a better hole saw? Perhaps I need to get some cutting lubricant...

I need to make a slight mod as it sits about a 1/32 too high. It's fine for the angle iron as I can rotate it a bit and it comes out fine, but on some tube I had extra of, one side was fine(was a bit flat on the edge) but the other side was so sloped and I can tell that if I welded it, there's so little metal it'd burn away... it'd be like welding 1/16 sheet, but using the heat set for welding 3/16

Anyone point me in the right direction or tips?

Get the LENOX hole saws! I used the same hole saw of 2 years of abuse before I had to get a new one.

yea those lenox ones work really good, I used alot load of cutting lube and set a fan next to the notcher so the blade doesnt get all hot and cuts smooth and fast. after just take the end of the and go around the chop saw lightly!

Originally Posted by garagebuilder

i have the same problem on my notcher too, same model... i'm lazy and havnt done it yet but the quick fix is to mark the allen bolt that the chuck block sits on and grind it so it sits lower. kinda silly for a nothcer that is that adjustable to not be able to notch on center, kick ass unit otherwise.

Yah, kind of dumb to have to grind on a new piece of equip to make it work right

Saw a vid on YouTube of a guy testing it and he also had to mill the top part as the block the clamp sits in was getting caught

Originally Posted by rrp fabrication

Get the LENOX hole saws! I used the same hole saw of 2 years of abuse before I had to get a new one.

Thanks, I'll see if Home Depot has one... or two, lol

Originally Posted by Travisfab

You should cut out the little flaps below the head lights. It makes it look a little cleaner.

once I get the bumper started I may cut them off..Id like to mount the stock bumper upper piece and then run a class 7 type prerunner bumper..

Originally Posted by Armistice

Yah, kind of dumb to have to grind on a new piece of equip to make it work right

Saw a vid on YouTube of a guy testing it and he also had to mill the top part as the block the clamp sits in was getting caught


Thanks, I'll see if Home Depot has one... or two, lol

wd-40 is the best for the price. Thats actually all I use at work (machinist). The Rigid hole saws at home depot have worked great for me. But my notcher is on a manual mill so I can adjust the speeds and feeds which helps it last.

Buy a Rigid hlesaw from Home Depot. They have a lifetime warranty. As soon as one of the teeth breaks take it in and tell them its a defect. ( They don't know shit there anyways ) Try and keep your reciet and packaging.

It's like buying a lifetime membership for holesaws.

[QUOTE=SWAYAWAY;1138003]SO I GOT TO GO HAND OUT WITH LUGO TODAY AND DO SOME TINKERING...HE WAS A WAY COOL GUY AND I SHOULD BE OUT PITTING FOR THE NIGHT RACE WITH HIM POSSIBLY HERE SOME SNAPS I TOOK TONIGHT









Any more pics of this truck?

Originally Posted by trfytoy

wd-40 is the best for the price. Thats actually all I use at work (machinist). The Rigid hole saws at home depot have worked great for me. But my notcher is on a manual mill so I can adjust the speeds and feeds which helps it last.

Originally Posted by Napoleon

Buy a Rigid hlesaw from Home Depot. They have a lifetime warranty. As soon as one of the teeth breaks take it in and tell them its a defect. ( They don't know shit there anyways ) Try and keep your reciet and packaging.

It's like buying a lifetime membership for holesaws.

I'll take a look at Rigid. I think I have that screw ground down pretty close. A LOT better than it was before. I can stand it now, but I can always hit it lightly a few times if I need it even closer

At work, and school, we used oil as it stuck longer. However, if you're using both hands, you really can't be adding oil continusly. I'll look some some cutting oil, but will keep using WD-40 for now. Nice, the garage smells like burnt metal and WD-40, lol

I did notice a problem though. The part where the drill swivels, even though I have that cranked down, can still be moved. The whole assembly is covered in an oil though, so would removing the oil prevent the block from moving?

Oil is a lubricant.. What do you think Sherlock??

HaHa just messing with you man.. It should at least help.

Brake Update:

sweet pete. ill make room for them tomarrow.

Originally Posted by oorracing

Oil is a lubricant.. What do you think Sherlock??

HaHa just messing with you man.. It should at least help.

But oil is thicker than WD-40 is what I meant, so cutting/drilling oil will hang around longer than WD-40

Originally Posted by mcdirt@1s1k

sweet pete. ill make room for them tomarrow.

Sweet. Let's get shit done tomorrow Mike

Originally Posted by 3xploder

Sweet. Let's get shit done tomorrow Mike

we will get old shit out. all of it.

Originally Posted by mcdirt@1s1k

we will get old shit out. all of it.

Sounds good man. Let's get that shit cleaned out for the new addition

will do.

need to also make room or a few other cool things.

Great work!