I bought this truck 100% stock (98 xlt) and like with anything i own, i cant settle for stock or anything remotely stock. Ive owned it for 2 years and did my research before i started doing anything major to it. Previously i have built numerous fast drag cars and steet bikes over the last decade, soo im mechanically inclined, have decent fab skills, have extensive paint/work experience, and an overly creative mind. Soo il start by saying, that i speak for 80% on this board that cant drop $5k on a LT kit from any big company. SOo i improvised, i bought a used camburg 5.5 kit for cheap thinking that i would stop there. wrong. Soo i get this idea that i can turn my 5.5 kit into a long travel kit over a period of 3 different stages. Reason being is my truck is myDD and i cant ride the streetbike fulltime because its still FUCKING RAINING and the car only comes out for special occasions.
First stage, built/fabbed in this order.
Literally CUT the oem ford lower A-arms in a specific area which best allows for extending. Measured out 4.5" and used 1/2" thick 4" wide flat stock as a spacer for equal widening and as a main structural supoort. After that, i boxxed up the rest with 3/16th plate, cut out the balljoint mount and welded in a 1" uniball cup. With both lower A-arms completed i was able to set the truck down on the lower A-arms on jackstands to mimic how it would sit at ride height. Keep in mind i just have 3" lift coil springs in the OEM coil bucket for "shocks/springs" at this point.
This of course sets the lower control arms at ride height being on the stands and me forcing the front end down for good measure to makre sure it was settled. I drilled out the lower tab on the 5.5 camburg spindle so a 3/4" grade 8 bolt will pass through it as well as the misalignments on the 1" uniball and double sheared it with 3/16th. Next before dismantling everything, my trusty angle finder gave me all the meausrements for castor/camber/ETC that camburg already figured out for me.and so i bolted the spindle up to the newly fabbed +4.5" OEM lower control arms. My good friend who owns/runs a fab shop laser cut me some new upper A-arm mount tabs. Soo i cut off the OEM slotted bullshit ones, made all my measurements and welded in the new tabs. The rest was simple, the camburg 5.5 upper conrtrol arm is 1.5" dia tube,, so i cut off the urethane bushing/housing to expose the 1.5" tube. My 7/8th heims for the upper control arms came with a threaded bung that accepts 1.25 tube, which wasnt in my orignial plan. (wanted 1.5" tube acceptance) Soo after welding up the new upper A-arm mount tabs, i installed the heims on 5/8th grade 8 bolts and sleeved 1.25 DOM into the burg 5.5 A-arm and trimmed it accordingly soo that i had perfect 0* camber and 1/4" of thread showing on the heims soo i could adjust things as needed in the future. YES, the 1.25 is super weak and anemic looking, hence why i ground down the heim hex bolt on the bung so i could weld a small section of 1.5" tube over it. This way, i was able to sleeve 1&3/4" over both the threaded bung portion all the way over the 1.25" tube which sleeved over the camburg 1.5" A-arm tubing by about 3/4". Overkill? maybe, but i will never doubt that upper A-arms durability, plus it was easier to do it that way in my eyes. After all the a-arms were modded, measurered, finished welded, and installed, i used a camburg heim steering clevis on the steering rack, drilled the burg 5.5 spindle out to accept the 5/8ths bolt of the 3/4 steering heim, alighned the damn thing and prayed the geometry will work!!!! and it works perfectly!
As bro fab as this is, it cycles almost 15" with the coil bucket in the way, drives straight as an arrow, and has no bump steer or any wierd driving mannerisms over the full range of suspension cycle.
-STAGE 2, i will cut the coil buckets, box the frame rails, build shock hoops, engine cage, and install the fox 8" stroke 2.5" body coilovers that im waiting to get off my roomates truck.
-STAGE 3, after i make sure eveyrthing works how it should with the coilovers installed. We will use the geometry/measurements off my extended OEM lower control arms in solid works and have the laser table cut me out everything to make a solid boxxed lower control arm and actually be legit about it!
The reason i have to do it like this is as mentioned before, i cant have the truck down for extended periods of time. For what it is being backyard (literally) built this truck should turn out quite nice as a super budget build! I took me 2 solid weekends to knock this out, during the week and i am useless after working 10-12hrs a day @ my job. I have a fair ammount of tools to make it all possible, welder, plasma cutter, tube bender, and some help of friends who have shops for some misc odds n ends.
Soo go on, flame me, point and laugh. do what you want, i always think outside the box and even though i make good $, i just cant see dropping $4-5k on a LT kit new or used. i paid $800 for the used camburg 5.5 kit and have an additional $600ish for the LT conversion, which $200 of that is the camburg heim steering clevis/kit. Im doing the bodywork/paint on my roomates 07 silverado glass bedsides in trade for his fox coilovers. SOo like i said, super budget build!
rear end to be continued.
-giant 64 link killler
-full bedcage
-3" 3 tube 16" king bypasses
-trussed f150 8.8 w/ posi 4.56s
-Ls1/4l60e


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and so i bolted the spindle up to the newly fabbed +4.5" OEM lower control arms. My good friend who owns/runs a fab shop laser cut me some new upper A-arm mount tabs. Soo i cut off the OEM slotted bullshit ones, made all my measurements and welded in the new tabs. The rest was simple, the camburg 5.5 upper conrtrol arm is 1.5" dia tube,, so i cut off the urethane bushing/housing to expose the 1.5" tube. My 7/8th heims for the upper control arms came with a threaded bung that accepts 1.25 tube, which wasnt in my orignial plan. (wanted 1.5" tube acceptance) Soo after welding up the new upper A-arm mount tabs, i installed the heims on 5/8th grade 8 bolts and sleeved 1.25 DOM into the burg 5.5 A-arm and trimmed it accordingly soo that i had perfect 0* camber and 1/4" of thread showing on the heims soo i could adjust things as needed in the future. YES, the 1.25 is super weak and anemic looking, hence why i ground down the heim hex bolt on the bung so i could weld a small section of 1.5" tube over it. This way, i was able to sleeve 1&3/4" over both the threaded bung portion all the way over the 1.25" tube which sleeved over the camburg 1.5" A-arm tubing by about 3/4". Overkill? maybe, but i will never doubt that upper A-arms durability, plus it was easier to do it that way in my eyes. After all the a-arms were modded, measurered, finished welded, and installed, i used a camburg heim steering clevis on the steering rack, drilled the burg 5.5 spindle out to accept the 5/8ths bolt of the 3/4 steering heim, alighned the damn thing and prayed the geometry will work!!!! and it works perfectly! 




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