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8/14/2010
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The list is the most current one I've seen.
hey I was wondering if it okay or bad idea to run my cage in front of the dash like this picture. I would still run a cross piece and make sure to have an A Piller. I just dont want to tear apart the dash since its my daily driver and dont beat the shit out of it. thanks
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Because its my ride home from the desert, and my ride to work and school, and don't have the funds to fix something major (if something breaks) until I finish college.(but I do have a bunch of tubing, a bender, and a welder!! so i figured I'd cage it) trust me I'd love to romp on it, but until i can tow it out there, its not happening. got any input on the design??
Your just wasting your time and tubing then. If you want to continue caging it the way you are, then that is your choice. But once that day come where you decide to actually start building, I can gurantee that that you will be pissed when you have to rip that cage back out and start over
OG Member
Can we have more pics of this cage other than the one you just posted???
OG Member
yea, i only have this picture right now, which prob doesn't help. I have looked at many cage threads but Im considering doing it this way because I want to keep the air vents and e-brake for now since its myDD . I plan on starting over with a new truck once I graduate college. I didnt want to bend it around the dash like the second and third pic because under load it will just crush.?? or would the 2nd and 3rd pic a better design?
Pic 1 (this is not done, just getting started)
Other designs
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Sorry dude, but I am going to have to tell you the truth by saying you dont know what you are doing.
You say you dont beat on the truck, yet you wanna cage it. Kinda weird to me. Also, you say that you are going to start over with a new truck later on. Why waste your time and a perfectly good truck to do this to it????
Also, that gap that you have between the tube and the roof is unacceptable.
Stop where you are, rethink what you are doing, stop jumping the gun, and do it right. When you are really ready
OG Member
Basically his cage seems to have the proper design elements (so far that is) if its finished pretty well then I dont see there being a problem with it doing its job, saving someone in a roll.
Its his time, he can choose to waste it or use it to learn some fab skills. Who cares?
The faster you get into the sport, the faster you get out.
"You said rape twice.."
One way to do it ( i believe giant does some cages this way) is to put a notch down the side of the dash on both side then run the tube in that notch, and have it bend in towards the middle of the truck a few inches at the bottom to go through the floor.
93 Explorer 4x4- All stock so far
98 Volvo S70 T5 13.99@99MPH
2x I would personally notch the side of the dash away and not run a horizontal under the windshield like the MINI, instead in slamming me knees on a tube in front of the dash, but that cage would work and if good materials were used and the welds were sound I would be more helpful in a roll over that not having anything.
And just ignore Roost. He just likes to read his own posts. He's up there with the Ginger kid in useless/uneducated posts.
Mike
RIP Jon Butler
You will never be forgotten!
So you guys are saying that is a quality cage then??
OG Member
Its not how I would do it, nor how any respected fab shop would do it, but IMO, so far, it is a quality cage.
I dont see how running the A pillar tube like that makes any significant difference in the strength of the cage over all compared to your normally accepted standards for a cage.
That tube run "properly" would only be different in that its location is further up on the frame rail and that it would be more aesthetically pleasing.
Last edited by DuctTapeRacing; 05-15-2009 at 01:24 PM.
The faster you get into the sport, the faster you get out.
"You said rape twice.."
Escoranger, ignore roostthemoon, he has absolutely no clue.
James
Please tell me what info I posted is wrong?
OG Member
This is all B.S. The pictures of the incomplete cage he posted may not be an example of the BEST way to cage a truck, but it will do the job. Sure it doesn't look as cool as following the a-pillar and it will be a pain in the ass to get in a seat with that tube there, but it's stronger than a standard a-pillar tube that most trucks run these days.
How many trucks have you built? How many cages have you designed/tested? You drive a truck with a bumper made by someone else and a lift kit on it also made by someone else. Your ranger has a mild lift and some tires, yet you want to tell this guy HE has no idea what he is doing when it's obvious he has more experience throwing some tubing at a truck than you.
James
You told the guy he didn't know what he is doing when in fact, he is doing nothing wrong!
James
You are exactly right, and I understand that.
I should have worded everything differently. What I was meaning to say was it isnt the best way. It will work, but not the best. And he will someday probably want to go through the dash so why not do it through the dash the first time.
My bad, sorry guys.
OG Member
Fellas, this is one of the most informative threads on DR, please keep it going in that direction.
Pretty sure Geoff is re-doing it exactly the same way, just replacing sheet-metal and the one tube that got tweaked, the Mini will live again. That set-up is perfect for aDD IMO, makes keeping the dash nice, and keeping all your heating and air conditioning functional really easy. I wouldn't do a race truck that way, but race trucks don't need de-frosters.
To the guy who originally asked about the A-pillar, I would cut yours out and notch it into the dash like the above picture. The way you have it is fine from a safety standpoint, but I think you're going to hate getting in and out of the truck and it looks bad. At this stage of the game it's no big deal to fix, cut it halfway down the straight section that parallels the windshield, sleeve it and it should work out perfectly.
Even if you don't bash on your truck in the desert, still may as well have a cage. Offroad, if you're driving safely and paying attention there's very little chance of a roll unless something major breaks. On the freeway doing 70 with 10k other cars around with their drivers yapping on the phone and eating, your chances of getting hit and bad things happening are pretty high. I'd rather take an insurance pay-out and replace a cab, then take an insurance pay-out and have to replace the whole truck.
I agree it was the perfectDD . I miss that truck as a whole truck. Everything was functional in that truck and it was bitchen with the dash like that. Even the E-brake still worked fine.
so are a lot of you guys that are going thru the dash, doing full bore cages, just ditching the e-brake all together, or rerouting? swapping to hand controls. what are some opinions on this, as i am right there and not sure what to do about it.
il take my half out of the middle...
http://www.facebook.com/#!/pages/The...13878698626773
If you're going full-kill on the cage, but the truck will still be street driven (race only trucks don't need e-brakes) just cruise the junk-yard and find an e-brake handle you like and install it between the seats, mite take a little custom work to make the cable hook-up right, but it's the simple, cheap and reliable.
thank you, i was thinking a hand control between the seats, trying to finish up a few odds n ends so i can bring her out to the MORE race and play with her before revamping the front and rear suspension. and this truck is fun miles only no moreDD .
and yes it is a full kilt cage, cab to rear leaving the front for now so i can play
il take my half out of the middle...
http://www.facebook.com/#!/pages/The...13878698626773
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