Thread: Roll Cage Design 101

bump, needs sticky.

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in regards to vehicle weight and tubing size/ thickness, does anyone have a rough estimate on the weight of their built rangers??

bump; this thread is a wealth of information thanks to everyone who contributed. I too am curious about seeing toyota extended cab cab-cages and their frame hook-ups.

nice bump....first view for me

anyone have pics of Dan Vances(sp) cage ?

Originally Posted by nakedtacoma

nice bump....first view for me

anyone have pics of Dan Vances(sp) cage ?

This guy. This threads been in my favorites for a while.

Maybe you will get lucky and Dan will post some pictures

Originally Posted by tacorunner87

This guy. This threads been in my favorites for a while.

Maybe you will get lucky and Dan will post some pictures

well i just started coming on here since i was banned from the site that shall not be spoken of !!!

I hope i am lucky and dan posts his cage on here

This thread......needs moar cage pics.

Originally Posted by nakedtacoma

well i just started coming on here since i was banned from the site that shall not be spoken of !!!

I hope i am lucky and dan posts his cage on here

enjoy .
DNF Racing

One thing I am curious about is if you are going to start a cage project should you start with the cab cage first? To me thats where you should start and build the bed cage and engine cage around that.

The "bed-cage" in my truck is more like a roll bar with the shocks attached. I plan on changing it but if its better to do the cab cage first then I will do that.

I could design the bed cage to be tied into the cab cage at a later time. Its just that the way the "bed-cage" is now it's very functional. Although, it is tied to the frame up towards the cab. Welded not bolted.

If I were to do it over again I would start with a cab cage then work from there out. When I get my truck caged I plan to redo my bed cage.

Originally Posted by tacorunner87

If I were to do it over again I would start with a cab cage then work from there out. When I get my truck caged I plan to redo my bed cage.

dont forget about doing my cage too.....

Originally Posted by tacorunner87

If I were to do it over again I would start with a cab cage then work from there out. When I get my truck caged I plan to redo my bed cage.

I'm almost done with my second cage. If I were to give anyone here advice.. it would have to be... GET YOUR SUSPENSION & STEERING SYSTEMS FIRST! Then build a cage keeping those bump points in mind. This method will make sure you dont screw up and design the "b-pillar link killer"


I have found that my biggest issue has been guessing where the bump points and shock mounts need to be. I'd almost start from the front and move to the back if I did it again. That way the engine cage ties nicely into the cab cage... and then cab cage to bedcage.

Originally Posted by nakedtacoma

dont forget about doing my cage too.....

Keep dreaming. Right now Im trying to decide if I should do 1.75 or 2" tubing in the cab.

Originally Posted by FasterNU

I'm almost done with my second cage. If I were to give anyone here advice.. it would have to be... GET YOUR SUSPENSION & STEERING SYSTEMS FIRST! Then build a cage keeping those bump points in mind. This method will make sure you dont screw up and design the "b-pillar link killer"


I have found that my biggest issue has been guessing where the bump points and shock mounts need to be. I'd almost start from the front and move to the back if I did it again. That way the engine cage ties nicely into the cab cage... and then cab cage to bedcage.

True, definitely agree you have to keep suspension and steering in mind while building.

Originally Posted by tacorunner87

Keep dreaming. Right now Im trying to decide if I should do 1.75 or 2" tubing in the cab.


True, definitely agree you have to keep suspension and steering in mind while building.

ill pay you 4k to build mine....LMAO !

Originally Posted by nakedtacoma

ill pay you 4k to build mine....LMAO !

4k is not a bad price from a shop that is an about average price for a cage. I build my stuff and my stuff only. I don't fab on other people trucks unless i really feel confident with my work.

2in ... do it right

Originally Posted by jodaddy23

2in ... do it right

Kinda what Im thinking, then 1.75 engine and bedcage since plans right now are just a prerunner not race truck.

Originally Posted by tacorunner87

Kinda what Im thinking, then 1.75 engine and bedcage since plans right now are just a prerunner not race truck.

If your gonna do the front and rear in 1.75 then why buy a 2" die just for your cab. I say stick with 1.75" all around.

Mike

Originally Posted by tacorunner87

4k is not a bad price from a shop that is an about average price for a cage. I build my stuff and my stuff only. I don't fab on other people trucks unless i really feel confident with my work.

im jk...u know i would never spend 4k on a cage lol and im like u i rather try it my self :0

Originally Posted by tacorunner87

Kinda what Im thinking, then 1.75 engine and bedcage since plans right now are just a prerunner not race truck.

just go 3.0 ....be diffrent ...bro!! lol

Originally Posted by only1mikey

If your gonna do the front and rear in 1.75 then why buy a 2" die just for your cab. I say stick with 1.75" all around.

Mike

True, But I get these crazy thoughts to maybe put a v8 in the truck when the motor blows.

Originally Posted by nakedtacoma

just go 3.0 ....be diffrent ...bro!! lol

You are retarded aren't you?
You need to learn to multi quote

Originally Posted by tacorunner87

True, But I get these crazy thoughts to maybe put a v8 in the truck when the motor blows.


You are retarded aren't you?
You need to learn to multi quote

no more than u r....multi quotes are over rated...

anyways back on topic

to which he replied......this thread needs moar cage pics.

Originally Posted by FasterNU

I'm almost done with my second cage. If I were to give anyone here advice.. it would have to be... GET YOUR SUSPENSION & STEERING SYSTEMS FIRST! Then build a cage keeping those bump points in mind. This method will make sure you dont screw up and design the "b-pillar link killer"


I have found that my biggest issue has been guessing where the bump points and shock mounts need to be. I'd almost start from the front and move to the back if I did it again. That way the engine cage ties nicely into the cab cage... and then cab cage to bedcage.

Thats a very good point. I'm just planning out my project now, thats why im glad i saw this tread. This is my first build so it's great to have all the advice.

Needless to say i'm not understanding some of the terminology. When people talk about the a-pillar, is that the part of the cab that runs from about the dash board up to the roof? If so I understand that. I don't understand what the b & c pillars are.

I understand about load dispurtion and impact forces so i'm sure it will be over built. Not always a bad thing.

Originally Posted by Taurusaz

Thats a very good point. I'm just planning out my project now, thats why im glad i saw this tread. This is my first build so it's great to have all the advice.

Needless to say i'm not understanding some of the terminology. When people talk about the a-pillar, is that the part of the cab that runs from about the dash board up to the roof? If so I understand that. I don't understand what the b & c pillars are.

I understand about load dispurtion and impact forces so i'm sure it will be over built. Not always a bad thing.

A pillar is from the dash up the roof(windshield support), B pillar is where the door latch is, c pillar is back of the cab(ext cab and double cabs)

Originally Posted by tacorunner87

A pillar is from the dash up the roof(windshield support), B pillar is where the door latch is, c pillar is back of the cab(ext cab and double cabs)

Ok, got ya. Thanks.

any pix of engine cages tieing into cab cages on 93 to 97 rangers? also would like to see roof tubes as far from head as possible since im building a single cab, thanks ahead of time

has anyone tried using conduit tubing as a mock-up tool. meaning build the mock-up cage out of conduit, tack it together. then trace the outline on the ground, and you have a template to plan out your bends and what not?

Sounds like a good idea other then tack welding conduit is a bitch cause its galvanized. Iv tried it before. would be a good way to design it other then you going from 1/2 or 3/4" to 1.75" so things would be a little different.

all you would use it for is to draw the outline on the floor. in reference to the bending tube 101 on pirate4x4, how they draw the outline on the floor in chalk, and use the 90* piece of bent tubing to plan the start/stops of the bend. but yes, tack welding it does suck. maybe someone has a suitable sub?

bump for pictures of dash hoops tying into a pillars and engine compartment

Bump for a great thread.

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Bump cuz this thread has good info, took me a while to find it.

b pillar link killer? explain please..

b pillar tie-in is right where u want the front link heim to be possibly...

bpillar area is where you typically need clearance for your lower link in an extra cab ^wut he sed.

I love this thread. read it thru over and over before getting on with the design for this project.

I'm doing my entire chasssis right now from scratch, after the new frame and subframe were placed I started with the cabcage first so it can be dropped easily for all the top welds and spots blocked when in place.
Ideally you would have all the big stuff on hand (suspension, motor/trans, seats, st.wheel, pedals, batteries, radiator, shocks, etc.) to check clearances and optimize tube placements. Really it should be designed AROUND the driver, then the suspension, everything after that is secondary imo.

Here's some pics, the chassis is mostly Pro2 spec.
having the design sheet right there is nice to make sure things overlap and come together as required.

I will post some more pics soon.

Originally Posted by 98preranger

in regards to vehicle weight and tubing size/ thickness, does anyone have a rough estimate on the weight of their built rangers??

scaled my truck at the local rock quarry, half tank of fuel which is 12 gallons it weighed 4010 so the final weight should be just under 4100 with one person in the cab

this thread needs more pics so here we go. Just a friends playota that I caged about 2 yrs ago under a easy up during 115 degree summer days. I havn't touched it since. Just been collecting parts.



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explain the link killer part? I understand what a pillar is, a,b,c etc. but explain how it mounts exactly. if you mount it too low then you wont have space for your link correct? how do you determine too low vs not strong enough?