Thread: 92 toyota build

first two days. new Hiem steering, upper arms, torsion bars, ball joints, brake lines, t100 axles and a new front end axle w/ 4.56. Lowers tomorrow if i can get the f*$&kers off, guess i gotta take a dye grinder to them and cut the bolts. the rest comes along when more money does.

play-in it safe , come on throw some beams on there .

i see that you felt the misalignment spacer that connects to the outside hiem at the center link wasnt needed. hahaha just teasing. you miiiight wanna rethink that though... i mean yea it will work the way you have it... but a wee bit sketchy if it decides it wants to pivot that way and binds.

Originally Posted by allupinsydeyou

i see that you felt the misalignment spacer that connects to the outside hiem at the center link wasnt needed. hahaha just teasing. you miiiight wanna rethink that though... i mean yea it will work the way you have it... but a wee bit sketchy if it decides it wants to pivot that way and binds.

I think it might be a built in mis-alignment spacer, I know with our TC gen 3 kit, the steering bolt rubs on the frame, so maybe that is there solution.

No double shear on the steering?

I had the same problem with the drag link bolts hitting the frame, but only slightly. I heard somewhere you can flip the drag link around so the heims are on the front... To lazy to try, maybe someone can chime in?

Hope you welded out around the stock upper A arm mounts ! Were the three bolts are that hold down the pivot cross shaft..

Originally Posted by 928 Engineer

I think it might be a built in mis-alignment spacer, I know with our TC gen 3 kit, the steering bolt rubs on the frame, so maybe that is there solution.

i kno for a fact it isnt. this guy got all his measurments and such from my truck... he is using normal fk heims. i explnd how to do the misalign so it didnt hit anythng....

Originally Posted by allupinsydeyou

i see that you felt the misalignment spacer that connects to the outside hiem at the center link wasnt needed. hahaha just teasing. you miiiight wanna rethink that though... i mean yea it will work the way you have it... but a wee bit sketchy if it decides it wants to pivot that way and binds.

why would u need a misalignment spacer there?

You don't need a misalignment spacer there. If it pivots that much there, you have way bigger problems.

James

So yeah i originally laithed down the misalignment spacers so i could fit two of them, but still need to do it more, for now thats how it is though. I did have a big problem though, when i went to get the alignment done, i found that the lengths of my tie rod tubes were to long at 12 and 1/8". So they couldnt do the tow alignment, its way out right now so i cant even drive it. guess i got to cut down the tubes. Plus it seems they are going to hit and bottom out on the pitman arm.

you have a good kit, I had one. The weak link is the balljoints, ie: if you launch your truck it will pretty much oval out the metal on the top of the upper balljoint when you land, or continual whoops will do it too. The balljoint will only last so long so you will be replacing them quite frequently. The lowers hold up a lot better. Also, when you eventually get the bushings out of the lower arm pivots put delrin bushings w/ 4130 sleaves into the pivots and you will never have a problem. Also use delrin on the upper arm pivots. Another idea is to ditch the whole front driveline and lock up the rear and it will be so much better than having the front driveline, it will go more places than a 4x4 setup without a locker, plus a lot lighter and you will have low gears to crawl with. BTW, delrin doesn't squeak like regular bushings and it doesn't flex.

new additions

Originally Posted by F1sleepy

You don't need a misalignment spacer there. If it pivots that much there, you have way bigger problems.

James

now that is a good point hahaha. but yea... when you came to pick the kit up from us did you look at my steering setup? you would have noticed we built the entire steering portion of the spindle around those tie rods. so if you need let me know and ill send you pics of how we set up mine... then you will have a idea... but like i said.. since i built the spindles. i could pretty much move anything wherever i wanted, whereas you are using stock locations so i dunno. the tc kit is made to run stock locations so i dont see how yours would bottom out against the pitman or idler arms.

Well im getting the tie rods redone tomorrow and ill see what happens then.

problem with tie rods bottoming out on drag link! YIIIIIIIIIKEEEES! help

Heres a picture i have of my truck with the tc genII kit and their heim steering. the heims are spaced out so that the bolt head comes really close to the frame. Even like this the tie rod comes close to the centerlink but it doesnt hit it. Its kind of hard to see but you can see the spacer on the inner heim.

Yeah i through in some washers to space it away from the drag link, it almost rubbs out on the frame of the truck but it spaced it just enough so the tie rods just barely hit the pitman arm bolt. so i think i solved the problem.

New pics. Swaped in a newer rear end with 4.56. Tried to install some new downey 3 inch liftleafs too, but my F#$cking shackle bolts were all rusted and couldnt get the old leafs off.

cutting torch time!!

I took a torch to them to heat them up and then let them cool to get some expansion and contraction going but didnt work.

Originally Posted by sdecurti

I took a torch to them to heat them up and then let them cool to get some expansion and contraction going but didnt work.

no i mean cut those bitch's off!

so still no double shear on the steering??

lol, nope, just spaced it out, works fine now, wont really worry about it until i start putting the truck under alot of abuse.

tie rod to center link dosent need a double shear if you have a 5/8" bolt there.

Originally Posted by sdecurti

I took a torch to them to heat them up and then let them cool to get some expansion and contraction going but didnt work.

no , just heat up the nut till its red then back it off (while its red), works everytime

I was talking about double shearing the steering knuckle

I used to have the gen 2 kit and I ran hundreds of miles on single shear steering.

of course the steering knuckle is double sheared. definetly should have it there.

na, i got the nut off, but i couldn't slide the bolt out? Are you saying the same thing for the bolt, just heat it enough to get red and then try and slide the leaf off.

build's looking good so far....look better with some cool bed sides on there, i know a guy with a pair for sale

haha

Well got the rear end completed today. TC Kit in the front, 3" lift downeys in the back w/ a new axle and 4.56. Just got to add 33's this weekend hopefully and im stoked. Of course there is other stuff to be added later. through in a before picture and after picture.