Thread: Equal length TTB build, questions on third member.

i was told to pre/post heat mine.

going to make a build thread?

It's pretty hard to beat a D35 axle with D44 outers. I think your trying to get too technical with trying to go equal length. I can uderstand the whole being different thing.

You could build a widened D35 with D44 outers fairly easy using the tech these guys have shown you.
My D35/D44 setup rocked. and has never given me a lick of trouble.

Or you can just buy a set of D44 TTB conversion brackets from me and bolt on a D44. Get the benifit of 66" track width, using off the shelf parts.

Originally Posted by ranger#1

you can just change out the stubbs ya know

The stubs will be the wrong length

---------- Post added at 03:01 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:01 PM ----------

Originally Posted by mt93ranger

i was told to pre/post heat mine.

going to make a build thread?

I can make a build thread when I actually start the build. Still trying to gather parts now.

Originally Posted by Copykat

It's pretty hard to beat a D35 axle with D44 outers. I think your trying to get too technical with trying to go equal length. I can uderstand the whole being different thing.

You could build a widened D35 with D44 outers fairly easy using the tech these guys have shown you.
My D35/D44 setup rocked. and has never given me a lick of trouble.

Or you can just buy a set of D44 TTB conversion brackets from me and bolt on a D44. Get the benifit of 66" track width, using off the shelf parts.

I see your point and I am thinking about ditching the equal length. I will see when I get started the mock up.

The truck it is going on is a 99 and has no crossmember to start with so I cannot bolt on the conversion setup. I am aiming for a 62-64" track width. The drivers side 44 beam is perfect for that just the passenger side needs mods either extended and in front of the the diff or shortened to go behind the diff.

Copykat hold off on pulling that third member if you haven't already.

I just contacted Moser Engineering and they will shorten and respline for $55 per shaft.

This build has been a disaster. I have modified the passenger side beam and made pivot brackets but I don't know that I can go any further with my lack of funds. I need to extend the steering arm on the TTB knuckles. All the research I have done says it cannot be done safely welding on the castings. So I would need totally fabricated knuckles unless anyone can tell me how to get over this hurdle.

So Copykat I might be going to unequal length after all.

You can weld the the uprights just fine, I have done it many times. There are many race broncos out there with plates welded to the back side of the upright to keep the spindle snout from ripping out. Not to mention all the double sheared steering.

Grind it clean, pre-heat and use stainless rod. Let cool slowly. Easy money.

Originally Posted by partybarge_pilot

You can weld the the uprights just fine, I have done it many times. There are many race broncos out there with plates welded to the back side of the upright to keep the spindle snout from ripping out. Not to mention all the double sheared steering.

Grind it clean, pre-heat and use stainless rod. Let cool slowly. Easy money.

I only have a mig welder so does it have to be tig welded?

Originally Posted by newstylecustoms

I only have a mig welder so does it have to be tig welded?

Use stainless wire, pre heat with torch, put kitty litter on it while cooling.


Sent from my home using an Atari.

Originally Posted by philofab

Use stainless wire, pre heat with torch, put kitty litter on it while cooling.


Sent from my home using an Atari.

I may experiment with this but for now I have to get this truck on the road so I am going back to the unequal length setup. I have to buy another passenger side beam since I have modified the one I have. The question I have now is why doesn't anyone use pivot joints like this one 2.0" Ballistic Joint instead of uniballs. I don't what uniballs because I live in Indiana and we have a lot of salt on the roads in the winter. I don't want to wash the bottom of the truck every time I drive it.

That joint it way too wide for beam pivots in my opinion. I can barely get a 1" narrow uniball cup to clear through travel.

That joint has a 1/2 ball so it's weaker and is made out of the same material as a uniball... how would it tolerate salt/corrosion better?

Leaf spring bushings turned so that the centerline of the beam bushing is the same as the centerline of the dad arm bushing.

Originally Posted by philofab

That joint it way too wide for beam pivots in my opinion. I can barely get a 1" narrow uniball cup to clear through travel.

That joint has a 1/2 ball so it's weaker and is made out of the same material as a uniball... how would it tolerate salt/corrosion better?

Because is is not metal on metal and greasable. Good points that is why I am asking. I made the brackets I will be using with a 2 inch spacing for future upgrades. I will probably just use the stock bushings for now.

Originally Posted by 3.0ranger1227

Leaf spring bushings turned so that the centerline of the beam bushing is the same as the centerline of the dad arm bushing.

leaf spring bushings don't have enough flex for the odd angles the beams will be at.

I just put some joints like that on my truck you have to widen the mount, but if you do it away from the axle it works great I live in central Utah where there is tons of snow and salt on the roads and didn't like the thought of a heim you can't grease if I get a sec ill post some pics.

I used a jonny joint with a 9/16 bolt.

Originally Posted by Wildhair225

I just put some joints like that on my truck you have to widen the mount, but if you do it away from the axle it works great I live in central Utah where there is tons of snow and salt on the roads and didn't like the thought of a heim you can't grease if I get a sec ill post some pics.

I used a jonny joint with a 9/16 bolt.

The mounts I built have a two inch spacing so I could fit the ballistic parts if I ever decided to up grade to them. I don't know if it is worth it to do right now. My other explorer has factory bushings and they don't cause any restriction in movement with 14" of travel. So is it worth spending $80 on?

it sounds like youre on a tight budget. why do you need to upgrade now? the truck doesnt even move.. id put the money towards something else.