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  1. #1
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    Default Need Help Guys! Replaced Clutch and now I don't have any pedal pressure...1994 Mazda B2300 4cyl

    1994 Mazda B2300 2.3 4cyl.

    My clutch was beginning to slip really bad, so yesterday, we replaced the pressure plate and clutch disc. We did this by removing the center crossmember holding the trans in place, unbolting the trans, and while jacked up, sliding it back off the flywheel/motor just enough to access the pressure plate and clutch disc. No hydrolic lines were disconnected at all, just the elctronic plug at the top of the trans from the main engine harness. Everything else stayed in place and moved slightly back with the transmission.

    We replaced the pressure plate and clutch, centered the disc in the process, slid tranny back into place (went together easily), and then bolted everything back up. Put the shifter back on and it when the truck was off, it shifted in and out of the gears smooth. BUT....no pedal pressure.

    We took off the inspection window rubber on the trans and watched the throwout bearing as we pumped the pedal and it very very slightly moved, but not enough to disengage the clutch....it just barely moved.

    So then we began trying to bleed the system...which after researching online, I found out is the biggest pain in the ass ever! LOL.

    Apparently the rangers & explorers have a really hard system to bleed due to the "quick-disconnect on the slave cylinder, the fact that it has an internal slave cylinder in the trans, and the master cylinder is basically inverted on the firewall.

    We tried gravity bleeding for hours and hours, but this never seemed to work. Thought we had a little bit of pressure at the pedal for a minute, but if we ever did, it faded away when we began bleeding it more.

    I basically tried everything, then even took it to a local shop that had a pressure bleeder. They tried to pressure bleed it for two hours, called me up, and said "come get your truck...we aren't going to charge you anything because we couldn't fix the problem." Still no pedal pressure.

    When I was looking around online, people were saying to do everything you could possibly think of, including completely removing the slave, master, and reservoir, bleeding seperate from the truck, and then re-installing it already pressurized. Some were unbolting the master cylinder from the firewall and flipping it upside down, some were cracking the quick disconnect to release air rather then using the bleeder on the slave... everything you could think of.

    I was hesitant to try all this stuff because half of the forums where people had posted these ideas, they received responses back saying that this way didn't work for other people!?!?!?!?

    I'm about stumped now...maybe when we pulled the tranny back, we created a leak somewhere? But we've been looking the lines up and down and cant find a leak anywhere. Maybe we tweaked the slave cylinder connection when we backed the trans up off the flywheel?

    I don't know where to begin at this point, but would love some direction/helpful hints/top secret info from anyone who has done this nasty task?!?!?!? I really don't want to replace the whole damn system if I don't have to...lol.

    A big thank you for any feedback/info beforehand...it is much appreciated. Thanks guys!!!!!!!!!!!

  2. #2
    Another Silvy Owner redsilvy's Avatar
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    You always post in the wrong place.. lol
    Patrick
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  3. #3
    2:AM Fabrication 84prerunner's Avatar
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    weird...replace the hydraulics?

  4. #4
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    Sorry bro...lol. I'm new to this site and have no clue where stuff goes yet =)

  5. #5
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    Thats where we are kinda at now...I had pressure before but my clutch disc was almost toast....so the only thing I can think of is that I really didn't have THAT much pressure...I just didn't need a whole lot to disengage the clutch since the disc was probably 1/10th as thick as it should have been...lmao.

    I can't really see any other answer to this because it seemed that we had pressure before...just was beginning to slip really bad when I accelerated.

    Anyway, I am probably buying a new slave cylinder now, dropping the tranny back out again, and checking that piece of crap out when I have it completely out of the trans.

    My only worry is that its not the slave and it ends up being the master...then I end up replacing the whole damn system anyway!

    Thats why I'm looking for helpful info or anything i'm overlooking... I don't want to replace parts that are still working, but not sure what I might be overlooking now. Maybe you guys have a secret tactic on how to bleed this bastard? Who knows....

    AAARRGGGHHHHH LOL

  6. #6
    2:AM Fabrication 84prerunner's Avatar
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    i would have replaced the slave while i had it apart to begin with. not much more money but a pain in the ass if it goes out a month after you do the clutch and have to pull it apart again.

  7. #7
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    At this point, I definitely agree with ya...lesson learned though.

    As far as the master cylinder...as long as I'm getting pressure at the bleeder when we pump the pedal, most likely the master is still all good right?

    Our thoughts were that the fluid was making it down to the slave fine (master is probably good to go then), but the plunger in the slave is probably letting the fluid slip by rather then pressurizing to push the throwout bearing outwards.

    Thoughts?

  8. #8
    2:AM Fabrication 84prerunner's Avatar
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    not sure...in my head if there is no fluid leaking the slave must be ok. if the master is pushing fluid down and it isnt leaking out somewhere then the slave must be ok. like i said, that is all in my head and i have no idea if it is right or not. id set the old and new parts side by side and make sure they are exactly the same.

  9. #9
    COMPOUND FABRICATION adolesents's Avatar
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    I've been through this same thing many times what I did was make sure your not getting anymore air outta the bleeder then close it then disconnect the quick release with the special tool then reconnect it go in the truck push the pedal down it will almost hit the floor with little pressure pump it a few times and for some stupid reason I always got a pedal? Just my experience what has worked for me lol

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  10. #10
    Racer half-ass astronaut's Avatar
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    Disconnect the QD fitting at the transmission. Its a dry break type fitting. Pump the pedal slowly (with hands not feet) and see it the master is holding pressure. If it is, the slave may be to blame.

    They are notorious for going out.


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  11. #11
    Yay! bryan22's Avatar
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    Slaves are notorious for going on these truck, don't mean to beat a dead horse, but ALWAYS replace the slave when the trans is out of the truck. Still this doesn't really sound like the slave went. i've replaced 3 and they have always leaked at least a little when they were going out. Do like half ass said before you go pulling the trans back out.

    as far as bleeding i've always just parked the truck on my driveway, open the bleeder and let gravity do it's thing, helps to have someone watching the master and keeping it full. then what little air is left should go away by pumping it. Good luck.

  12. #12
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    Whelp, I went ahead and bought a slave cylinder anyway, just because it seems like everyone said to replace it anyway, both on here and local shops. We dropped the tranny, put the new slave in, started trying to bleed it again, and nada....

    I haven't tried what you guys replied with last night yet (park on incline or jack truck up, disconnect the slave, etc..), but I will try those things when I get home from work today.

    Man...these things are really a bitch! I'll get it one way or another....lol. I appreciate all your help though~

  13. #13
    Racer half-ass astronaut's Avatar
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    Did you bench bleed the slave first?

    That is a must do step.


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    Quote Originally Posted by sparkypyro View Post
    Fastest way to a million dollars in desert racing is to start with 2 million.

  14. #14
    DD=*Daily Destroyer* =/ GRRANGER's Avatar
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    check your reservoir line from the reservoir next to the master cylinder on the drivers side little container on fire wall-- that goes down to the side of the trans where the bleed valve is sounds like there's a leak might not be noticeable but it sucking air that's why you have no pedal pressure!! or if the didnt put the right clutch in that could be a whole different problem
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  15. #15
    4.0 HO dezert dreaming's Avatar
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    I just went through all of this on my ranger ( basically same setup as yours) I Made sure to replace the slave,master,t/o and line. It got costy, but it was well worth it. Did you try bench bleeding the master? there's a neat video that shows you how and it helps alot. I'll try to see if i can find it.
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  16. #16
    4.0 HO dezert dreaming's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JohnnyG View Post
    your names sand freak im sure you could make it in the sand bro......
    Quote Originally Posted by Red Star View Post
    but your miss dgaf.....

  17. #17
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    Cj on here had the same problem out in the desert when the quick disconnect at the firewall broke. We fixed it but It didn't have pressure at all. We ended up pumping it for at least an hour before we could even feel any resistance. I wouldn't try this on the roads,but after we got it to grab a little he drove it around in the desert for a little and we would lead it, then drive and bleed. We did this a couple times and he said it felt like before. Maybe he will chime in.
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  18. #18
    Senior Member shane1617's Avatar
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    it takes for ever to bleed these clutches and you have to pump them like 20 times before you reopen the bleed valve and make sure u keep the pedal down.

  19. #19
    Senior Member Ridetime4's Avatar
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    Alright its nothe fluis level or the slave cylinder. Its air trapped at the topof the master cylinder. There are only two was of fixing this problem.

    1. Go under the dash and disconnect the starter interlock switch and remoVe it. Next disconnect the the puush rod for the master cylinder from the pedal. This has a very easy to brake clip that holS it on. I had to brake mine then used a ziptie in its place. Next get snapring pliers and remove the little snap ring that holds the end of the ram. With the pushrod attached to the master cylinder pull it out untill fluid comes gushing out then quickkly replace It back into its housing. Reattach everything and THEN gravity bleed it taking care not to let air get sucked back into the system.

    2. Bench Bleed it and be done, get on utube and check all thje videos. And. Don't let air in the bleeder valve.

    Lastly don't be afraid to disconnect that "quick disconnect". It has a built in check valve. So it may be bled before. And tested before returning it to the. Vehicle.

    It took me 3 days to figure this shit out. I went with number one and I was night and day, immidate pedal pressure.

  20. #20
    Racer half-ass astronaut's Avatar
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    Of course, you , would bump this way too late.


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    Quote Originally Posted by sparkypyro View Post
    Fastest way to a million dollars in desert racing is to start with 2 million.

  21. #21
    Another Silvy Owner redsilvy's Avatar
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    Eeekkk.. Seeing this is a bummer after this guy passed away over the summer.
    Patrick
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  22. #22
    Racer half-ass astronaut's Avatar
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    Damn......

    RIP Homie!


    Sent from your moms rancid vagina using Tapatalk
    "Someone who thinks logically provides nice contrast to the real world"
    "Takes more than a 40 of King Cobra and a little hippy cabbage to make a car that bad." <-- on the topic of Dodge/Chrysler
    Quote Originally Posted by sparkypyro View Post
    Fastest way to a million dollars in desert racing is to start with 2 million.

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