Thread: rebuilding a c4, help

i have a c4 to be rebuild before i put it in the truck, what areas need more attention than others when building it to handle the rigors of off road driving?
also,stall speed? is there a certain range to be in, or should i slap the motor on a engine dyno to figure out power band first?

where could i find a complete rebuild kit as well, ive searched summit a bit but it comes up with single parts and not rebuild kits.

2500 stall, manual valve body, big pan and big cooler(s)....... What you can do to it depends on how much your willing to spend.

www.transmissioncenter.net

manual valve body
2500-3000 stall converter. get one built for your truck.
300m input shaft
welded drum
good clutches and steels




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would a TCI or B&M or similar street/strip or full competition rebuild kit work, along with manual valve body, big pan and coolers?
there is definately a budget, but i do not want to do it numerous times. the motor is going to be a 306 with a mild build, so it wont have 400+ hp/tq going through it..

a 306 with good heads, cam, and manifold will make close to 400hp.

an input shaft and welded drum are good insurance, and about $275...


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I would get a good ArtCarr valve body( the AC from Texas, not the turkey neck art Carr from Huntington beach)
300m shaft
Larger oil pan
Billet forward servo
New Borg Warner bands and clutches and steels if your old ones are burned.
I would personally go with a much lower stall speed like 1800-2000, if it's higher, it just means it's going to get hotter.

First though, take the trans completely apart and check every corner for cracks and stress marks. Take a round file to anyplace starting to crack and fix them. Also, put steel helicoils in the outside bolt holes, aluminum will strip.

Read up on the c4 and set the backlash properly. If you don't you'll end up blowing the trans internals to pieces.


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i looked up the art carr in texas, could not find a website, only forum posts saying they closed their doors...

higher stall converter only gets hot if you drive it below the stall speed...


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too low of stall will lock up to early and your pounding woops with basically a clutch thats fully engaged so you blow up hard parts in trans and rear ends. too bad your not closer. i know a guy who will do it for cheap... over and over and over again

You're in Texas, call Broader Performance. The guy knows his shit..


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Originally Posted by DiRt YoTa

too low of stall will lock up to early and your pounding woops with basically a clutch thats fully engaged so you blow up hard parts in trans and rear ends. too bad your not closer. i know a guy who will do it for cheap... over and over and over again

ive never heard of this. I dont see how a torque converter that doesnt have a lock up feature would literally lock up, the slip is all in the clutch packs and in the end the tires.
ive put my c4 through some pretty rough sections and when I rebuild it, the clutch packs get worn, but never to the point of absolute failure...

the reason I recommend a low stall is (assuming he has a 4.0) the bellhousing is so small, heat generates faster with that little motors torque converter. Hence, the higher the stall, the more heat its going to generate when your running through slow rough sections, on and off the gas where your motor is running from 1000-2000 rpms, when wind isnt giving the most cooling capabilities....

Originally Posted by half-ass astronaut

ive never heard of this. I dont see how a torque converter that doesnt have a lock up feature would literally lock up, the slip is all in the clutch packs and in the end the tires.
ive put my c4 through some pretty rough sections and when I rebuild it, the clutch packs get worn, but never to the point of absolute failure...

the reason I recommend a low stall is (assuming he has a 4.0) the bellhousing is so small, heat generates faster with that little motors torque converter. Hence, the higher the stall, the more heat its going to generate when your running through slow rough sections, on and off the gas where your motor is running from 1000-2000 rpms, when wind isnt giving the most cooling capabilities....

going to have a 5.0 (306 or 347 depending on the difference in price overall)

Nevermind.....



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