Thread: 5vz-fe questions/info

Found this pretty cool PDF with some interesting info about the 5vz.
http://www.mr2.com/files/mr2/techinf...a/3vzVS5vz.pdf

Now on to the question. On page 12 in the spark advance section it talks about using timing to control tq during shifts if it has a n auto trans. Now that has me wondering what that part of the map is doing on my truck. im running an auto ECU with a manual trans. could it be keeping the timing from going to its full advance?

Originally Posted by 84prerunner

Found this pretty cool PDF with some interesting info about the 5vz.
http://www.mr2.com/files/mr2/techinf...a/3vzVS5vz.pdf

Now on to the question. On page 12 in the spark advance section it talks about using timing to control tq during shifts if it has a n auto trans. Now that has me wondering what that part of the map is doing on my truck. im running an auto ECU with a manual trans. could it be keeping the timing from going to its full advance?

No, not really. When the ECU detects faults in the "auto trans", it will go back to factory mapping, and use values from the MAF/TPS and adjust accordingly.

Confirmed this by hooking my truck up to TechStream (The factory Toyota scan tool) and driving it around. I watched the timing advance in relation to throttle input.

My truck is also a Auto ECU with a manual trans.

I should also add that in reality, it will never run AS good (however much better that truly is) since the ECU can't adjust to real-time conditions, but don't think it's that big of a hindrance. The power gain from the manual trans alone makes up for it IMO. lol.

I can watch ignition timing on mine too, do you know what range i should be seeing? do you happen to know of an o2 wiring diagram? thats what i was looking for when i found that PDF. im getting a code and i think it might be cause by me not wiring the o2 correctly.

Year of ECU/Motor?

If you need ANY Toyota info, I have access to all the factory stuff, be it repair or wiring diagrams.

97 4runner motor/wiring. Thanks for that info.

I dont think something is right, bbut im not sure what. it runs smooth but doesnt have THAT much power until I push it to the floor and as soon as it clicks into open loop it changes 100%. exhaust tone changes and it hauls ass out of no where. seems worse now that i actaully have an o2 sensor hooked up.

current info:
idle: 603rpm
load at idle: 11
TPS at idle: 10

2 codes for auto trans

idle RPM is a little low and calc load is reading lower then the specs given above.

Having the rear o2 connected on my truck resulted in a similar effect, although I'm not running a cat so that's probably why.

Also, dirty air flow meter, faulty/lazy oxygen sensor, and a coolant temperature sensor that is off on it's reading will cause a lack of power too.


97 4Runner Wiring Diagram
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ill test the o2 today, it is brand new but you never know. MAF is also only a year old with maybe 2k miles on it but cleaning it wont hurt. Temp reading from the ECU was 190, autometer gauge read 185 when i posted those numbers above.

This motor/ecu setup was a swap right?

Did you wire the ECU yourself? Did you hook up the BATT terminal to a constant 12v?

yes it is swapped into my 84 and yes it has constant 12v

compared the o2 wiring to the diagram you posted, i had the the - heater wire and sensor ground wires switch, bets thats why i was getting an o2 heater code on and off haha. havent driven it to see if it made a difference yet.

just drove it around. fixing the o2 wiring seemed to have gotten rid of the hesitation problem but it is still idle low. it ranges from 580-610 once warm.

Originally Posted by 84prerunner

just drove it around. fixing the o2 wiring seemed to have gotten rid of the hesitation problem but it is still idle low. it ranges from 580-610 once warm.

My stock 97 4runner idles just a hair over 500. Unless it's stumbling or idling so low it's rough, I wouldn't worry about it.

Taking the throttle body off and thoroughly cleaning it, as well as the idle air control valve might help.

yea its idling very smooth, no issues there. i know the IAC is working because the idle is at 1100 when cold, but i guess cleaning it wont hurt. im not to worried about it though.

SOOOO drove the truck today. some new codes came up as pending. i didnt right them down but here is a list of what they mean.

1. Random cylinder misfire
2. cyl1 misfire
3. cyl2 misfire
4. cyl4 misfire
5. cyl6 misfire

runs great but have noticed it seems to miss a very little bit for maybe the first minute after i start it when the motor is cold.

put another 15 or so miles on the truck today without changing anything and all those pending mis fire codes are gone. wtf lol

thats what pending codes do...lol

pending means the condition for the code did not happen enough times. these are completely random numbers, but say for a hard misfire code to be set, the cylinder has to misfire 6 times, a pending code is thrown if the cylinder has misfired 1, 2, 3, 4, or 5 times. again, completely random numbers to explain concept..

Originally Posted by letsgetthisdone

thats what pending codes do...lol

pending means the condition for the code did not happen enough times. these are completely random numbers, but say for a hard misfire code to be set, the cylinder has to misfire 6 times, a pending code is thrown if the cylinder has misfired 1, 2, 3, 4, or 5 times. again, completely random numbers to explain concept..

yes im a where of that, just think it kinda odd i get codes for 4 different cylinders then they all disappear the next day. what changed to make them stop mis firing?

I have some questions for you guys. i have a 3.4 out of a 03 taco 2wd A/T trans i have engine harness and the body harness. im looking for info on trimming all the crap i don't need off body harness. i don't have the the fuse box from the donor. it has the 5 plug ecu so looks like i need to keep the two plugs that go to ecm what else do i have to keep? all gauges are auto meter and i want to keep obd2 connector. any help would be great thanks

What are the specs on the swap? going to run the auto trans? smog legal?

I prefer to ditch the 3.4 chassis harness altogether. just reuse the plug and run the wire you need. you should only need 2 hots (one switched, 1 constant) to make the truck start. If you are running an auto trans will have to wire up the VSS but thats only 2 more wires.

yea keeping A/T TRANS. smog, well all i need it to do is sniff clean so not to worried there. do you have a pin out of the wires i have to run? and i do want to keep obd2 connector

i have a pin out for mine, but it could be different for your ECU. it is only 1 wire to the ECU for the OBDII port. then a 12+ and 2 grounds.

This is a cool PDF. My friends with 4runners will like this.


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