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  1. #1
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    Default 22re idle serging when warmed up?

    I have a 92 Toyota 4x4 with a 22re. Has about 25k miles on a rebuild. Just replaced spark plugs, fuel filter And put injector cleaner through it. For the past few weeks after the truck warms up the idle starts to serge up and down. I've searched but can't find a straight answer. Any info on how to fix this would be great

  2. #2
    Zero Mile Kyle ATS 89 Yota's Avatar
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    Only when you hit the brake, correct?

    Possible causes: Idle is set a hair too high, faulty or out of adjustment throttle position sensor, faulty coolant temperature sensor.
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    Yes. Thanks man I appreciate it

  4. #4
    Zero Mile Kyle ATS 89 Yota's Avatar
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    I found this. But mine is serving faster. It drops and instantly goes up then instantly down and so on

  6. #6
    Buzz Killington Blood Eagle's Avatar
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    The idle is too high or it is low on coolant or the coolant line going into the Idle Air Control Valve is plugged. Idling up and down when warm or hot means that the IAC is stuck open. The IAC on a 22RE is coolant operated. Check coolant level and add if low. If it is full, pull the coolant line off of the throttle body and blow compressed air through it.

  7. #7
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    Ya I thought it could be cause it was low so I topped it off and nothing changed. Ill try blowing into the line

  8. #8
    Zero Mile Kyle ATS 89 Yota's Avatar
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    The 22re idle surge is caused by injector cut off, not IAC.
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  9. #9
    Buzz Killington Blood Eagle's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by shawnracer1230 View Post
    Ya I thought it could be cause it was low so I topped it off and nothing changed. Ill try blowing into the line
    If that doesn't work, lower the idle until is stops or put some aluminum tape over the holes on the inside of the throttle body.

    ---------- Post added at 04:11 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:11 PM ----------

    Quote Originally Posted by ATS 89 Yota View Post
    The 22re idle surge is caused by injector cut off, not IAC.
    Meh.

  10. #10
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    I'm thinking its IAC the truck also runs hot. And I Just blew through the hose and lowered the idle and drove it for a few min and it started to over heat?? Wtf and yes I topped it off after I blew through the hose

  11. #11
    2:AM Fabrication 84prerunner's Avatar
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    sounds like the beginning of this video?

    HPIM1873.mp4 video by bikecrazy91 - Photobucket

  12. #12
    Racer DiRt YoTa's Avatar
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    I'm gonna put my money on a stuck IAC Valve.
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  13. #13
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    I didn't click on any of the links, so sorry if this has been covered but....

    I've seen them do it when there is air trapped in the cooling system. They almost overheat, and then all of a sudden the air magically leaves and then the truck runs fine. If it was me I would take the thermostat out and drill a tiny hole in it to aid in it bleeding the air off. That has always worked for me.
    Harbor Freight Tools Co. makes every effort to assure that its products meet high quality and durability standards, and warrants to the original purchaser that this product is free from defects in materials and workmanship for the period of 90 days from the date of purchase.........or after one use. After that go screw yourself lol.

  14. #14
    Mega Member emptyzrider's Avatar
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    what about this same problem but only when the trucks cold/first start up til it gets to operating temps?!
    Last edited by emptyzrider; 01-13-2012 at 10:32 AM.

  15. #15
    Mega Member emptyzrider's Avatar
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    anyone lol?!

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by 84prerunner View Post
    sounds like the beginning of this video?

    HPIM1873.mp4 video by bikecrazy91 - Photobucket
    ya pretty much like that. the idle doesnt get that high though

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    but it is weird, sometimes it doesnt do it, sometimes it does but stays at different idle speeds for a longer period of time and sometimes it serges fast like in the video

  18. #18
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    Is your a\c on by any chance?
    w

  19. #19
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    dont have a/c haha

  20. #20
    2:AM Fabrication 84prerunner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by shawnracer1230 View Post
    ya pretty much like that. the idle doesnt get that high though
    I was on the gas a little in that video. i was just curious if it was surging that quickly. mine was some sort of ignition issue i never did figure out. motor blew up first.

  21. #21
    Mega Member emptyzrider's Avatar
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    @84 you know a solution to if this is happening when first start up? It seems to stop surging after its to operating temps?!

  22. #22
    2:AM Fabrication 84prerunner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by emptyzrider View Post
    @84 you know a solution to if this is happening when first start up? It seems to stop surging after its to operating temps?!
    nope. mine would idle fine, but it was almost impossible to drive. it would start to go then cut out, then go, then cut out etc. It was pretty random when it would do it and it would go away once it warmed up. It also threw a code for "IGF signal" at the same time.

  23. #23
    Mega Member emptyzrider's Avatar
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    hmm..well for shits and giggles imma check a few things posted above for when it happens when to operating temps to see if that helps...but it only happens to mine here and there and ONLY when I press the brake pedal in , once released it stops doing it. hmmm only other thing I could think of would be brake booster/cylinder

    thanks for the info ahead of time...you seem to be the GO-TO guy for yotas according to 02rangerdanger02 and a few others.. figured I throw it by ya.
    Last edited by emptyzrider; 01-13-2012 at 01:43 PM.

  24. #24
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    If only with your brake peddle in I would venture a guess and say you have a bad brake booster. IDK
    Harbor Freight Tools Co. makes every effort to assure that its products meet high quality and durability standards, and warrants to the original purchaser that this product is free from defects in materials and workmanship for the period of 90 days from the date of purchase.........or after one use. After that go screw yourself lol.

  25. #25
    default title Sweaty's Avatar
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    Years ago I had this issue. Mine would surge on warm up, just before the thermostat opened only when the brakes were pressed. My thoughts and research found that the EFI system is designed to have a higher idle when cold and there is a feature where when the brakes are pressed the EFI system tries to lower the idle. I figured I was getting a conflict between these two features. Anyway my solution was to install a late body throttle body which removed the air flow valve.
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  26. #26
    Buzz Killington Blood Eagle's Avatar
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    You don't even have to spend money. Take a piece of aluminum tape and tape the holes inside the throttle body and set the idle accordingly. When they are stuck open, the air going through those holes in unmetered air because it is not being measured by the AFM. Power brakes are vacuum operated if the idle is high like that and you use a vacuum source you are essentially creating a big vaccuum leak. When you depress the brake pedal and use the vaccuum for the power brakes and too much unmetered air is being introduced via the TB, you will get an idle surge. Either plug off the IAC holes or lower the idle to compensate for the extra unmetered air. The IAC is only supposed to be open when the vehicle is cold and it works in conjunction with the cold start injector. If the IAC is functional when cold but the cold start injector is not, you might get an idle surge when the vehicle is cold but not when it is warm. There is also a cold start time switch that is operated off of coolant temp that commands the cold start to fire when coolant temp is low. If the switch is bad it might not command the cold start to fire off when cold, even though the IAC may be functioning properly.
    Last edited by Blood Eagle; 01-14-2012 at 09:48 AM.

  27. #27
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    i have the same issue with my 3.0. im guessing it can be fixed the same way?
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  28. #28
    Mega Member emptyzrider's Avatar
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    thanks for the ideas guys, I didn't get a chance to check it out this past weekend but I shall tackle it this week

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