Bronco Sin Nombre!

Travisfab

Moderator
Staff member
Aug 21, 2003
20,011
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San Diego
Keep it stock or + .5 with rubber bushings. Uniballs can get closer to 2". I'd need to see the back of your radius arms to say for sure, but something along the lines of a bung stacked on top of the one you have now with a sleeve and some plate.
 

yltaco05

Senior Member
Jan 18, 2006
1,118
111
63
Fullerton, CA
Keep it stock or + .5 with rubber bushings. Uniballs can get closer to 2". I'd need to see the back of your radius arms to say for sure, but something along the lines of a bung stacked on top of the one you have now with a sleeve and some plate.
Ive got uniballs, but now I'm thinking is it really worth the work for 1-2 inches? lol. If I'm understanding you correctly, you're saying to lengthen the radius arm to push the beam forward, achieved by adding material where the helm threads into the bung?

If so, i don't think I'm explaining my situation clearly haha. please see super simple sketch for clarity (hopefully)

Screen Shot 2019-03-11 at 2.55.20 PM.png


Screen Shot 2019-03-11 at 2.56.12 PM.png


Because the angle of the radius arm at the beam cannot change, as the beam gets pushed forward, the radius arm moves out away from the frame. so i need to change the angle of the radius arm coming off the beam, as well as making the radius arm longer (heim is buried though so i may have enough there)
 

yltaco05

Senior Member
Jan 18, 2006
1,118
111
63
Fullerton, CA
nothing? hmmm.. I guess ill just start messing with it and see what happens lol. On another note:

Got my lights set up in the fab lab. still need to clean up the wiring, but ill take care of that when I hardwire them in, no more extension cords!

IMG_6984.JPG


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This pic was taken at night (like above) and no flash or other lights used
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I also got my coolant reservoir mounted and plumbed. Im not digging the hose though. But i don't know if it bugs me enough to go baller AN stuff... would cost about $150 to plumb the reservoir and the TB heater, but would really clean it up...

IMG_0775.JPG
 

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yltaco05

Senior Member
Jan 18, 2006
1,118
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Fullerton, CA
I literally just got off the phone with desolate and this is the route I'm taking. Going to pick up a set of arms and the brackets for the beam, just need to measure and make sure the length is good, if not Greg will make them longer or shorter as needed. Only thing that has me nervous losing the gusset from the radius arm to the beam. Will make shock mounts easier, but losing strength where the beam was extended. Would an overlay on the front and back, maybe top/bottom as well make a difference?
 

marcytech

Mega Member
Mar 16, 2011
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you could make an over lay for all the sides and make your tabs for the radius arm "long" on the weld side to extend from the beam end to whereever the rad arm needs to be.....hm that doesnt really get my idea across accurately.....
 
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yltaco05

Senior Member
Jan 18, 2006
1,118
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Fullerton, CA
I measured my radius arms and they are currently 36.75" from back of beam to center of heim (heim is buried into the bung...) Desolates arms are 36" back of beam to center of heim. Since I'm moving the beams forward about 2" that would put me at 38.75". I could A) move the radius arm brackets forward 2.75" and drill another set of holes in my frame. or B) have desolate make the arms 2.75" longer. Either way i will probably get the beams set where i want them before doing A or B.
 

zachwabbit

member
Oct 18, 2017
99
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Jamul
Man that work space looks nice.. sometimes I really hate having to work on my truck in the mud. What did you do for your windshield washer tank since the OEM ones connected to the coolant overflow?
 

yltaco05

Senior Member
Jan 18, 2006
1,118
111
63
Fullerton, CA
Man that work space looks nice.. sometimes I really hate having to work on my truck in the mud. What did you do for your windshield washer tank since the OEM ones connected to the coolant overflow?
Thanks man! The concrete has been nice, but now that its covered and the lights are up, so much better. I have another tank like the overflow that i will use for washer fluid, along with an inline pump. The previous owner removed the factory tanks to make room for air horns, priorities... I could have gotten a stock set up, but found these and thought they would look killer.
 
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yltaco05

Senior Member
Jan 18, 2006
1,118
111
63
Fullerton, CA
Due to the absolute shitty weeks I've had (dog passed away, truck broke down, etc.) I haven't had much time or funds to work on the bronco. Picking up some side jobs to help recoup some lost funds quickly though, which has also kept my brain distracted. Ive also done some thinking on how to save some money on my radius arm situation as well as put more of my own work on it instead of others. Heres the plan:

1) buy cheap chin prasma cuttel
2) carefully prasma off existing radius arms and clean up beams (cut off shock mounts too)
3) keep top tube (with bung) of existing radius arm and remove everything else
4) turn down new boss for radius arm (1.75 x .50)
5) cut/notch upper tube to length and weld to boss
6) trim bottom tube to fit and weld to boss/upper tube
*this is the tricky part, if fails then ill use a new tube with miter instead of the bend since i don't have a bender anymore
7) cut/weld tabs to mount arms to beams

drew this up for visual reference. Dimensions aren't exact since i don't have the beams infant of me. I know they are extended 4" so the tabs are 5" long to bridge the extended section to add strength. the boss is set 1.5" on center behind the beam, giving it about .75" clearance between the beam and radius arm. getting it closer just liked funny but i didn't want to go too far out. Thoughts, questions, concerns?

Rad Arm & Mount.jpg


Who in OC has a dimple die set? or some 1.75 x .50 DOM or 4130? I can get solid stock at IMS but the only go to .250 on DOM.
 
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