“Red Rocket” 88 ranger leftover parts build

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85yota

TT Motorsports
Nov 18, 2004
10,583
1,792
113
Santa Maria, CA
www.tt-motorsports.com
Seriously I Daily Drive a shit box 1997 toyota tercel and I pulled door panels off to do new door speakers and I put some knock off dynamat on the inside of the doors and it made a big difference in road noise driving the car with just a 1ft square on each door and a small 3" square on inside door panel under door panel too.
 

partybarge_pilot

Uno mas Cervesa!
May 14, 2004
15,374
9,229
113
Boringsville
Single diagonal down is fine.

Your main issue is that welded on mounts make the truck sick balls to work on. Weld some short tube sleeves on for them to slide into. Then run a bolt through both to keep them on. Otherwise you will be constantly bashing your head, back, knees on them and wrapping rags around them to keep from getting harpooned.

Make the sleeves level and put bends in the tubes to get where you need to be. 4 bolts and pull the bedside and brackets all as one.
 

mikey09120

Michael Gonzalez
Dec 5, 2009
3,738
2,242
113
Camarillo, CA
www.facebook.com
Single diagonal down is fine.

Your main issue is that welded on mounts make the truck sick balls to work on. Weld some short tube sleeves on for them to slide into. Then run a bolt through both to keep them on. Otherwise you will be constantly bashing your head, back, knees on them and wrapping rags around them to keep from getting harpooned.

Make the sleeves level and put bends in the tubes to get where you need to be. 4 bolts and pull the bedside and brackets all as one.
That's how I want to do Molly's crawler bedsides. I think alot of short course trucks run that style.
 

toyotacole

Senior Member
Jul 13, 2014
1,067
519
113
Single diagonal down is fine.

Your main issue is that welded on mounts make the truck sick balls to work on. Weld some short tube sleeves on for them to slide into. Then run a bolt through both to keep them on. Otherwise you will be constantly bashing your head, back, knees on them and wrapping rags around them to keep from getting harpooned.

Make the sleeves level and put bends in the tubes to get where you need to be. 4 bolts and pull the bedside and brackets all as one.
I considered that idea but the two horizontal tubed would have to be perfectly in plane in order to get them off. My other option would be to do tabs with a “bushing style” between them and land the bedside mounts to the “bushing”. Same 2 bolt and the bedside comes off deal


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toyotacole

Senior Member
Jul 13, 2014
1,067
519
113
Today’s work was not fun but stuff that needed to get done

Started off by dealing with the driveshaft to cab floor issue

Peekaboo!


Got that boxed and sealed off with some 14g steel. Has about 3/4” clearance now



This new “driveshaft tunnel” now interferes with my center console



Had to hack out the rear crossmember and lost one of the mounting tabs. No big deal it didn’t really need those anyway.

Painted



Sealed off the rest of the cab where the engine cage comes through. Good fun…





At this point I was able to cycle the rear with the driveshaft and check everything out. Cycles great. I joints don’t even seem to be close to binding at 27” of travel and has 2” of driveshaft plunge throughout the 27”. I predict around 2.25” of plunge over the entire 30” of travel the rear is capable of



Rear end bottomed out on the floor at 27”. I will probably strap the truck around 28”.

And today’s Amazon product spotlight:

Ordered these “rock lights” to use as a dome light in the truck. Set of 4 for $21. Hooked it up to a battery real quick and the thing is bright! Comes with a little rubber isolated mount radius for a tube and will just have to tap 2 holes in the cage overhead. Great option for those like me who can’t afford the cool guy billet mount with the KC highlights. Offered in a bunch of colors as well so considering ordering a set in red and putting them on the engine cage pointed at suspension, under the hood, and Maby a few on the backhalf. But also considering that might be kind of gay so we’ll see





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toyotacole

Senior Member
Jul 13, 2014
1,067
519
113
Started off today with some light work. Ha ha



Just drilled and tapped 2 holes in the cage and bolted it in. Super solid and looks clean

Then moved on to the passenger side bedside mount. My passenger side axle is still at Dutchman getting fixed so I had to swap the dr axle over so I could mock a wheel up to do the bedside mounts

Did this side differently. Much happier with the overall appearance and functionality of it



Unfortunately all I had was the 3/4 .095 for the sleeve portion and a 1/2” bolt is a little loose and a 9/16 is too tight so rather than trying to ream the tube out to 9/16 I just ran with the 1/2”. Once the two bolts are tight it is super solid.




Went ahead and welded that all up since I was happy with it. Looks clean when uninstalled



Decided to see about making the brake light mount to the bedside mount and of course couldn’t find the passenger side brake light so that will have to wait.

You can see here what I was saying about the wheel not being perfectly center in the bedside. Oh well not much I’m able to do about that now. Like I said most of the time the truck will be ran without glass anyways



Going to match the drivers side mount tomorrow and try to get all fab work on the rear end wrapped up so I can pull it all apart for paint and begin re assembly. Starting to feel like I’m getting close!

 

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