“Red Rocket” 88 ranger leftover parts build

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toyotacole

Senior Member
Jul 13, 2014
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It's all ready slotted, take the bolts out and slide it in. You only need to move the trans back far enough to clear the dowels.

Without it the converter will be to deep and fuck up the pump. Some are tight enough that just tightening the trans down without it will lock the motor up.
Yikes…crazy just the thickness of that spacer makes any sort of difference….


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84projectford

Senior Member
Sep 8, 2010
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Phoenix Az
Yeah converter to flex plate clearance is generally tight. Between 1/16 to 1/8. Need to have that like barge said or you kill the trans.

I’d say you could verify you have enough room but you gotta remove the converter bolts. At that point, it’s quicker to just slot the plate and slide it in.
 
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toyotacole

Senior Member
Jul 13, 2014
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More assembly stuff today

Got the rear ended in, link hardware shanked, 3rdmember installed, and driveshaft bolted up as well as drivers side axle installed





Most of the rear is now anti seized, loctite, and paint marked






And this shot for motivation to keep pushing



Truck is sitting about 2 inches higher than projected ride height in this picture. Should have a nice stance.

Passenger side axle came back from Dutchman today with the splines broached deeper so that’s ready for install

Carpet kit and all fuel system plumbing showed up as well

Now I just need to decide what color to do the shocks. The gray would pop on all the black but black would look pretty slick as well


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SByota

Senior Member
Jul 16, 2003
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As for today’s updates I spent the day getting pretty high on paint fumes.

Got the rear chassis and links sprayed. Did flat black on the chassis and satin on the suspension to give it a little bit of contrast.







Decided to give the DIY line-x thing a go again. This time got the stuff that you roll on. 1 qt from orielly was $22 so I figured I couldn’t go wrong. Wanted to do the outside of the back firewall to clean it up and hide some of the patches where the cage came through.






I’m actually really happy with the way it came out. I didn’t have a roller so I applied it with a paint brush. Looks a little uneven in pictures since it’s not dry yet but came out with nice texture and good coverage. 1qt covered the back wall. I’ll give my full review tomorrow when it’s dry and see how it feels. For $22 I’m happy.


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That came out really good. How do you think that roll on bed liner stuff would do on the backside of fiberglass fenders/bedsides?
 

toyotacole

Senior Member
Jul 13, 2014
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That came out really good. How do you think that roll on bed liner stuff would do on the backside of fiberglass fenders/bedsides?
I’m actually planning to use it for that as well. The stuff seems to be sticking really well to the rear firewall and I did very minimal prep. Pretty much just wiped it down with acetone and applied it.

The only difference I can not between this stuff and actual line x is this stuff has a little bit of a rubbery feel. I plan to do the inside of my class as well as the tops of my bedsides


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toyotacole

Senior Member
Jul 13, 2014
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Got the hard part of the exhaust finished up today. Kind of hard to get good pictures of



After the x I’ll run two very small bullet mufflers. I really wanted to do some crazy rear top exit out the back but space is a huge concern. With the upper link the fuel cell clearance there’s not a whole lot of room to get the exhaust up and out the back. Two 3” tubes would have to dodge the upper links, driveshaft and fuel cell cradle all while staying clear of the path of the trans cooler as not to heat soak it with hot exhaust air. I might have to just settle for turn downs after the muffler but we’ll see how involved I want to get seeing as that I’ve already probably got way too involved for an ohv 4.0 exhaust…


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