“Red Rocket” 88 ranger leftover parts build

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toyotacole

Senior Member
Jul 13, 2014
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838
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They bolt up to the 4 bolts on the housing end. As long as you have the large / Torino size bearing end.
I’ll have to look at my axle order and check but if I remeber correct it is the large bearing end.


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toyotacole

Senior Member
Jul 13, 2014
1,295
838
113
Update:

Think I got my rear brake issue sorted out.

Made 3 trips to the junkyard. First trip I had a mental lapse and forgot how to remove the axles from a c clip rear end. Not sure why I thought I could just unbolt the flange. So I didn’t have the right tools.

Fail two I came back in attempts to just cut the axle off and harvest the plates I needed. Also a fail. Axle can not be cut with a sawzall.

Finally got the plates on attempt 3.

Got back to the shop and attempted install. Took alotttt of massaging to get them to work but I think it’s good now. The caliper bracket plates are not technically where they’re supposed to go and it’s partly my fault. When Dutchman asked what brake kit I was using so they could machine the depth I told them not to worry about it and that I was doing weld on brackets so it didn’t matter. Well now it matters.



So instead of the plates bolting to the flange,then the axle going in, then the retainer plate pinching it all together, it goes spaced, retainer plate, then brake caliper bracket. This caused issues with clearance of the bracket to rotor as the caliper bracket is technically supposed to be mounted flush to the axle flange. In my case it is about 1/2” off the flange causing some issues. Did some “machining” of the caliper bracket itself as well as the rotor and it seems like it’s going to work.


Got this sweet bag from prp and filled it with harbor freight goodness. Pretty cool idea and got me another 80lbs over the rear axle which is awesome



This brought my rear ride height down a bit which I wanted.

Next was to drop the front end down. Even after my last front spring swap I was still unable to achieve the ride height I wanted. I had pretty much 0 camber and the truck steered like shit and sat pretty nose high. Got a set of 200 lb upper springs and threw them on today. New front rate is 18” 350 over 12” 200. Super light rate but it sits perfectly now with 1.5” of preload



No more bro lean

Next on the list is to adress the trans breather vent issue I was having. The factory vent sucks and vents atf all over my exhaust. Seems to only puke at full load in 3rd gear wide open. A little concerning that it pukes all over my exhaust tho so I’d like to add a barbed fitting and run a hose farther back into one of those little filters.

Here’s my issue

This is the little hole the breather was stuck in



It’s not threaded at all and the factory breather was just sitting in there. I purchased a 1/8 npt to 1/4” barb fitting but I don’t want tap the hole and get metal shaving all in the trans. Other option would be to pull the tail shaft housing off and tap in then but that also entails a lot of work as the whole exhaust would have to come off to be able to get the tail shaft housing off

Thinking of possibly just siliconing the fitting in there? Obviously being careful not to get silicon in the trans. I haven’t checked to see how the 1/8 npt side compares size wise to the hole yet but I did read online about people tapping 1/8 npt thread onto the vent hole so I assume it’s close. Not sure what my other options are.

Going to be at the clean desert deal next weekend in Barstow with the truck. Anyone else going out there?


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mjlogan

space cadet
Feb 9, 2007
738
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ontario ca
If you're scared of tapping it how bout making a tab that bolts to that tailhousing bolt that you can weld the fitting to. Silicone when you assemble it.

Might be a lot of finger fking but it looks like you have ok access to it



I'd probably just tap it carefully and put a bunch of wheel bearing grease on the tap to catch the chips but im an idiot
 

84projectford

Senior Member
Sep 8, 2010
2,898
3,139
113
Phoenix Az
the grease trick works. just pack the slots of the tap full of grease, make one full turn, remove tap, clean tap, re-grease, proceed once again.

otherwise id just find a metal line that is just big enough it needs tapping in, jb weld it and call it done
 

toyotacole

Senior Member
Jul 13, 2014
1,295
838
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I like the grease on the tap idea. Definitely still a little bit scary tho.

Here’s the “fitting” I pulled out of the breather hole



The treads on it are useless and the fitting was technically just sitting in the hole

Comparing it to the new fitting I got



Very close in size. Should just need the 1/8 npt tap. No drilling out. Hmm decisions….. kind of wondering if I can just tap the new fitting into the hole with a hammer and it be a nice snug fit. I’m not really too worried about it blowing out as the old fitting was just sitting in there and never ejected


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