1992 ranger redemption

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toyotacole

Senior Member
Jul 13, 2014
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118
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Very nice! Super simple and clean. I was just gonna say how I like the layout because you widened the back section and kept it nice and low.

I was also gonna ask if you made the rear bump zone like a bulkhead.. then the pictures answered that! Reverse chronological guy! LOL.

Oh, and what length sway bar arms? I would expect that tube a little further back. Seems like barely a foot or so
Woah just noticed the pictures posted backwards.....weird. As far as the sway bar goes I’m just going to run one of the cheapie steel ones from kartek. I think about 17” long. Plan to run tabs off the link itself for the sway bar tie rod. I would have liked to move that tube back a bit and run it for the axle but with packaging I didn’t want the back half to stick way outside of the bedsides. The way it sits now that back tube is about 8 inches outside the bedside line meaning I won’t need a rear bumper. Since I don’t have all the parts for this thing yet it’s been kind of tricky trying to get all the measurements right for all the parts I plan to use


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FasterNU

Mega Member
Jun 28, 2006
7,593
969
113
San Diego
^^Ah, gotcha. I was wondering if maybe that was the plan. Then I thought it might be difficult because you have so much bump travel. Sway bar tie rod will have to have some length to make it clear.

And yea... this time I tried to get most of my parts ahead of time. MUCH more difficult when you don't have all the hard parts on hand. A lot of 2ghetto was built blindly like that. This hobby is too expensive to have all your parts at first!!
 

toyotacole

Senior Member
Jul 13, 2014
891
118
43
Got a few more tubes in the truck this weekend. Didn’t work on it as much as I wanted since I went to the sand show Saturday. Got the back half main tubes pretty much wrapped up
started on seat mount tubes
this is my first time messing with a 4wd cab and I’m almost certain the trans tunnel in these is much wider than the 2wd trucks due to the transfer case. This is making mounting these already pretty large seats even harder. Had to notch out a pretty good section of the trans tunnel just to get the seat to fit in there
I originally wanted to put the drivers seat on a slider but with the limited space it might be more trouble than it’s worth. Not sure what I’m going to do for the seat tube in front. Might need to miter it over the trans tunnel.


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FasterNU

Mega Member
Jun 28, 2006
7,593
969
113
San Diego
I've never done a rain gutter.... heard they are narrower?

But, the sheet metal on tunnel that is left looks pretty much the same as mine ... (2wd 94)
 

toyotacole

Senior Member
Jul 13, 2014
891
118
43
I can’t wait to see the next owner finish this thing and drive it! When’s it going up for sale?


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Sounds like you might be interested in buying it! I’ll shoot you a pm


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charlie_brown

OG Member
Aug 10, 2004
2,934
173
63
OC/BAJA
I've never done a rain gutter.... heard they are narrower?

But, the sheet metal on tunnel that is left looks pretty much the same as mine ... (2wd 94)
not sure on this.
i have been told that the inside is the same but the outside is bigger because the non-gutters are more rounded.

i remember back in the day a few guys re-skinned there gutters with the newer style.
 

toyotacole

Senior Member
Jul 13, 2014
891
118
43
I guess it’s probably time to update this thread again....

As some of you may know from my red rocket build thread, this truck no longer belongs to me but I will still be finishing it. Kind of am in between jobs build so if progress gets slow again you know why.

So where did we leave off

Before I sold the truck I ended up purchasing a new beam kit. It’s an old Kelfab kit, came complete with steering hubs brakes mounts the whole deal. Kit was only ever bolted to another truck but never ran.

Started working on getting the kit mocked up




Please ignore the sticker falling off the wall. I was hopeful that I could use the beam mounts that were already welded to the truck but after lightly booting up the kit it was obvious that it was way to wide and I would have to use the pivots supplied with the kit. Oh well just more cutting. This was sometime back in December I believe.

At this point a bunch of stuff came up and it because obvious that I wouldn’t have the time or money to finish the truck like I would like.

The new owner of the truck had a sort of different plan with the truck to be a full blown 1450 truck but with a little bit more comfort. So that’s when the cutting began.

Somewhere in this time we decided to flip the whole shop around. Moving this thing all over the place was sketchy to say the least

Got the truck flipped around in it’s new resting place and the fun began.










Out with the old 4.0 that will be used as the new heart of the red rocket

Then Mike @President came over and abused his sawzall privileges. My original idea was to just cut a square out of the firewall for the new motor and do sheet metal work to patch it all in. Mike convinced/just cut the whole firewall out of it and before we knew it the whole floor was out of it too. You know how the grinder can get away from you....






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toyotacole

Senior Member
Jul 13, 2014
891
118
43
Did some a pillar tie ins so we could delete the front body mount and the rest of the remaining floor



I’m not a huge dimple die fan so I put a bead roll in the tie ins. Kinda hard to see in pictures but it looks pretty cool in person

Got the frame plated in





Now it’s time to start building motor mounts. I’ll talk about the motor/trans in a second








Got the engine/trans side mounts all finished up. To give a time reference this was yesterday

Bolted up to the motor



Got the motor in and sitting where we wanted and started fabrication on the chassis side mounts










Got em burned together on the bench. I wish I could weld like some of those Instagram guys. Always looking to improve but these should hold















So a little info on the motor. It’s a SBC 383 striker dry sump motor. It was build back in 2007-2008 and only ever ran on an engine dyno once. Pretty much as badass as you can make a 383. All the fancy stuff. I believe it made about 620 hp and 570tq. I’ll try to get some pictures tomorrow under the valve covers because it’s beautiful. We paired it up with a fully built th350 that was said to be built to hold 1000hp. We will see.

Tomorrow I have to finish up the new trans crossmember. The original Kelfab crossmember that tied the rad arm mounts together didn’t work. With how far back we pushed the motor it was like mid trans pan so I tossed it and am going to build a simple mount/ crossmember.

With the motor sitting in here now I’ll be able to finish laying out the chassis and start on the endless list of other stuff. I will keep this updated as I go


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toyotacole

Senior Member
Jul 13, 2014
891
118
43
A few more little updates from today.

Got the trans crossmember figured out


Pretty simple little crossmember but should do the trick and it’s super easy to get in and out

Now that the motor and trans are mounted time to move onto the million other things that need to happen. Decided to jump into the front suspension

All these mounts are set up to be bolt on to a 2wd ranger so I’ve ran into a few problems trying to get them to mount up on the 4wd chassis. I believe the engine crossmember on the 4wd truck is different and these mounts were designed to share bolt holes on the engine crossmember so I decided to trim the mounts where needed and just weld them on.


Got everything generally where I think it’s supposed to go


I was having some trouble with clearance on the passenger side beam mount and drivers side beam. I’ll get some more pictures of the clearance tomorrow. The drivers side beam bumps out all the way to the frame but the passenger side is going to call for some trimming of the crossmember to get everything to clear at full bump. I hope to get the kit squared up and cycling tomorrow and start playing with the steering to finalize everything before I start on front shock mounts


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