1st Gen Tundra Repair/Prep

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SByota

Senior Member
Jul 16, 2003
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I just keeping finding bent and broken parts. It seems this kit was not set up properly and is bottoming the shock. I keep sending him parts list...all new uniballs, tie rod ends, ball joints, hardware, wheel bearing, motor mounts. Welding some plates on the lower arms where there were dented from the factory bump stops.
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SByota

Senior Member
Jul 16, 2003
451
304
63
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Spent some more time on this turd. @the bodj designed and cut some new shock mounts for me. They came be out great! I did my best to make them look good with the tig welder. New uniballs in the arms and shocks. I’m going to cycle it and make sure it isn’t bottoming the shock. I also wanted the lower arms in the chassis before I slice out the smashed crossmember.
 

dsrtrcr01

Well-known member
Jan 31, 2005
5,364
2,049
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Why is the coilover mounted so far off the side of the arm? Is that just to make room for bypass? Id be moving those lower tabs some!
I am betting it is because there should be a hoop holding both coilover and Bypass shocks but they are running a coilover in the stock bucket causing the angle
 

armrunner

OG Member
Feb 12, 2006
3,026
766
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Bakersfield, CA
I am betting it is because there should be a hoop holding both coilover and Bypass shocks but they are running a coilover in the stock bucket causing the angle
Most kits on these Tundras are that way though. Only time you see someone cutting the bucket out is on a race kit of some type. Total chaos for instance you’ll see the bypass mount as far off the side of the arm as possible to keep the coilover inline.

Looking back at how mine was, i guess its not too bad. I could have did a better job on my bypass mount years ago. I just figured what the hells the difference, stupid thing gets like 13” of travel lol
 
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SByota

Senior Member
Jul 16, 2003
451
304
63
Most kits on these Tundras are that way though. Only time you see someone cutting the bucket out is on a race kit of some type. Total chaos for instance you’ll see the bypass mount as far off the side of the arm as possible to keep the coilover inline.

Looking back at how mine was, i guess its not too bad. I could have did a better job on my bypass mount years ago. I just figured what the hells the difference, stupid thing gets like 13” of travel lol
It seems to be that way to match the angle of the factory coil bucket and make room for the bypass if you add one. I’m definitely not moving the tabs. I am adding flat plates on top of the factory bucket to strengthen it and make a landing pad if he decides to add an engine cage and/or a bypass hoop.
 
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the bodj

1st post pg805
Mar 4, 2010
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Moorpark
It seems to be that way to match the angle of the factory coil bucket and make room for the bypass if you add one. I’m definitely not moving the tabs. I am adding flat plates on top of the factory bucket to strengthen it and make a landing pad if he decides to add an engine cage and/or a bypass hoop.
Do you want me to cut out another set of the top circle pads without the center hole so you can still feed the bolts through?
 

SByota

Senior Member
Jul 16, 2003
451
304
63
Do you want me to cut out another set of the top circle pads without the center hole so you can still feed the bolts through?
Thanks, but I don’t need them. I had some 5” circles from
another project already cut. Just need to drill the holes in them.
 
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SByota

Senior Member
Jul 16, 2003
451
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Not even close to right. How ghetto is it to just cut a spacer from some 2.25” tubing to make a spacer to extend the bump can a little. I really don’t want to cut off the old bump cans and redo them.
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