1st Gen Tundra Repair/Prep

[oorracing]

For stuck misalignment spacers, i heat them up pretty hot with a handheld torch, and either drop them in a bucket of oil and spray the hell out of them with Penetrant oil. The goal is to get them hot and then when the oil hits it, it causes cooling and sucks the oil into the crevices. Then i use the handle off a spud wrench to hammer it into the end of the misalignment spacer and hammer the spacer put the opposite direction. The taper of the spud wrench bites into the spacers pretty well to hold them.

You can make a spacer no problem for those bump cans. I’ve done it in the past and i add the slit to it and put a couple small beads so the spacer stays on the can. It’s less likely to slip over itself if you do that.
Also for single coilover applications I prefer to run the tall, foam Eibach or King shaft bumps. Those things are miracle workers for sure compared to that stupid rubber pad with a metal washer inside that’s on there now. Ditch those for sure.

Valve the coilover to have .020 stack, double the 3rd smallest shim, and run half .012’s/.010’s on rebound and 250psi. Call it a day


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[SByota]

Did some more work on this thing. Got the suspension bumped correctly by adding spacers to the bump cans. Made shock tower reinforcement plates/landing pads for future shock hoops/engine cage. Also cut up the smashed up crossmember and bumper. I used a bottle jack and a piece of .250” tubing to starting pushing things back to where they should be. Made a lot of progress today. Lots to go still.

 

[dsrtrcr01]

If you land a tube on that top plate won't it smash/bend down since it is elevated?

 

[SByota]

If you land a tube on that top plate won't it smash/bend down since it is elevated?

Its supported by a raised ring on the factory coil bucket and the small pieces of .250” wall tubing around the 3 bolts. It’s the same setup used by Camburg, Total Chaos and others. It’s hard to see in the pictures.

I’m adding double sheer gussets for the upper arms next, I’ll grab some more pictures when I have it apart next.

 

[smokeysevin]

The double shear plates are nice but make getting the uca bolt out even more frustrating. I have been really thinking about chopping out the crossover tube behind the shock where the uca bolt slides and running a pair of shorter bolts with a threaded tube in the middle or just using a nut for each of the new bolts. You would probably have to pull the shock out if you didn't use captive nuts but its only 4 bolts to get the shock out anyways so its not like it would be much harder.

Sean

 

[the bodj]

The double shear plates are nice but make getting the uca bolt out even more frustrating. I have been really thinking about chopping out the crossover tube behind the shock where the uca bolt slides and running a pair of shorter bolts with a threaded tube in the middle or just using a nut for each of the new bolts. You would probably have to pull the shock out if you didn't use captive nuts but its only 4 bolts to get the shock out anyways so its not like it would be much harder.

Sean

That's how my tundra was... only on one side though lol. Not sure why the PO didn't do it to both.

 

[SByota]

The double shear plates are nice but make getting the uca bolt out even more frustrating. I have been really thinking about chopping out the crossover tube behind the shock where the uca bolt slides and running a pair of shorter bolts with a threaded tube in the middle or just using a nut for each of the new bolts. You would probably have to pull the shock out if you didn't use captive nuts but its only 4 bolts to get the shock out anyways so its not like it would be much harder.

Sean

That's how my tundra was... only on one side though lol. Not sure why the PO didn't do it to both.

You were both right. After spending the whole day fighting the double shear plates, upper arms and the long upper arm bolts, I ditched the long bolts and changed it up.

I sliced out the tube and I’m doing to use two separate bolts per upper control arm. I should have just done this from the beginning. I basically worked in this thing the whole day and accomplished very little. Fuck

 

[smokeysevin]

You were both right. After spending the whole day fighting the double shear plates, upper arms and the long upper arm bolts, I ditched the long bolts and changed it up.

I sliced out the tube and I’m doing to use two separate bolts per upper control arm. I should have just done this from the beginning. I basically worked in this thing the whole day and accomplished very little. Fuck

View attachment 224929

Looks great, what did you use to cut it? I have been putting off swapping it over because it looked like a pain in the ass. Did you run 9/16ths bolts or stick with metric?

Also. do you know what longtubes are on it?

Sean

 

[SByota]

Looks great, what did you use to cut it? I have been putting off swapping it over because it looked like a pain in the ass. Did you run 9/16ths bolts or stick with metric?

Also. do you know what longtubes are on it?

Sean

Sawzall with some new fancy Diablo metal cutting blades I got at the Home Depot. They are the best I have ever used. I cut from the bottom up. It was definitely a pain in the ass, not a lot of room inside to work. I evened up the cuts with a 1” barrel sander on my 90 die grinder. I’ll add a filler plate to tie the flat plates together again.

I am switching it to 9/16”. The 14 mm bolt was super sloppy and the 9/16 fit way better in everything.

I think they are JBA headers. They are the CA smog legal ones. They bolt to the factory Y pipe and keep the cats. I’ll double check the let you know.

 

[smokeysevin]

Oh, I thought they were long tubes my bad.

Sean