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the bodj

1st post pg805
Mar 4, 2010
12,583
3,467
113
Moorpark
Got started on the radius arm today and burned in the pivot. I had measured the caster with a magnetic digital angle finder on the face of the beam using 0degree bushings. I wanted to check what caster is at before burning the radius arms in, but I welded on overlay plates over where I was measuring from, and the plates aren’t perfectly flat on the beam, so those are no inaccurate measuring locations. I guess the beam face is inaccurate as well, because I ended up using the side of the castle but holding the top ball joint on. Had about 20 degrees of caster. Took out a bit and ended up at 16 degrees. So that should help with my driveline angles a bit.
Anyways, got the radius arm burned together enough to keep everything located (still need to box in the top section). I can now
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make the passenger side match exactly. I might need to add a little kick in the radius arm though, to give more room for turning. I have about 20 or 25 degrees of angle, which seems low to me. I think 30 is normal. Thoughts?
 

toyotacole

Senior Member
Jul 13, 2014
1,244
775
113
Got started on the radius arm today and burned in the pivot. I had measured the caster with a magnetic digital angle finder on the face of the beam using 0degree bushings. I wanted to check what caster is at before burning the radius arms in, but I welded on overlay plates over where I was measuring from, and the plates aren’t perfectly flat on the beam, so those are no inaccurate measuring locations. I guess the beam face is inaccurate as well, because I ended up using the side of the castle but holding the top ball joint on. Had about 20 degrees of caster. Took out a bit and ended up at 16 degrees. So that should help with my driveline angles a bit.
Anyways, got the radius arm burned together enough to keep everything located (still need to box in the top section). I can now View attachment 229360View attachment 229361View attachment 229362View attachment 229363View attachment 229364View attachment 229365View attachment 229366View attachment 229367make the passenger side match exactly. I might need to add a little kick in the radius arm though, to give more room for turning. I have about 20 or 25 degrees of angle, which seems low to me. I think 30 is normal. Thoughts?
I’d run them strait like you have them. Things that are bent tend to continue to bend and radius arms see load in that direction. Steering angle actually looks decent


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

GahnRacing

Bonsai Trimmer
Oct 5, 2012
1,272
1,846
113
California
That’s about how much angle my truck has and the only time I really feel it’s effects are when I’m rock donkying. Might be different for you though, with a longer wheel base.
 

the bodj

1st post pg805
Mar 4, 2010
12,583
3,467
113
Moorpark
I’d run them strait like you have them. Things that are bent tend to continue to bend and radius arms see load in that direction. Steering angle actually looks decent


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Oh I totally get that. I was thinking I can add a horizontal rib along the length of the bend on the outside of the bend to help stiffen it up. Maybe that's lame. I can cut the mount off and move it inward another inch or two. That's the best option, I just feel dumb for having burned it in already lol

That's not enough angle. You need 30 or more. Stock Bronco is 32-35 depending on wheels and such.
Yeah, but broncos are mucho shorter and turn wayyyy tighter. They don't make sense how tight they turn lol

The inside tire is supposed to turn more than the outside tire so keep that in mind too.
Yes, I am aware. I spend part of a unit teaching that to my students.

Yeah. Get your Ackermann on bro.
Stock Explorer/Bronco geometry. I'm stuck with whatever junk Ford threw on there.
 

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